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The lil mastercraft isnt bad, but the 139$ C&H one includes hoses and connectors already, which is a 15 or 20$ kit worth of stuff- so its not a bad deal either.

And for a moisture trap- the airbush hose might have one built in (my ps900 did). Im not sure how humid it is where you are, so if the inline one isnt adequate you can get one for the compressor (they connect to the pressure regulator) at any where they sell air compressor tools.

http://www.buyairbrushes.com/store.php/products/air_pro_tools_ac-182a_ps900_airbrush_set

@Mistress of Minis

I was wondering what you thought of that kit and if you knew anything about those compressors?

You might want to look at the thread I did the other day as another option:

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/290314.page


Automatically Appended Next Post:

Jerick wrote:http://www.buyairbrushes.com/store.php/products/air_pro_tools_ac-182a_ps900_airbrush_set

@Mistress of Minis

I was wondering what you thought of that kit and if you knew anything about those compressors?

Its a standard diaphram compressor- they just put a sheet metal top and carry handle on it. for 125$ they want for it you're better off looking at the type of compressors that were listd above(jsut my preference- I dont like the lil airbrush only ones)

MoM, just wanted to say thank you again for coming back over and over to this thread and helping out us airbrush noobs, I'm sure I don't speak for just myself when expressing gratitude either.

Cheers!

No worries- just doin my part to help prevent unpainted armies!

So which compressor you gonna go with Tom?

After doing some searches in a few airbrush forums, it turns out the Air Pro PS900 is the same as the Master Airbrush G44 and G43 as they are all made at the same Chinese factory. They are Iwata knockoffs that according to the reviewers really works.

As MoM is in Arizona, I dont think she has the same humidity issues I have on the East Coast. A moisture trap was a must as "wet" air wrecks heck with the paint I use.

Your best bet with learning to use an airbrush (especially a double action one) is to just use it on junk to get familiar with how your brush shoots paint. My Aztek's smallest needle is .30, the PS900 is .2, so there will be a slight learning curve in finding the right ratio (unless you've used Delta Ceramacoat MoM and can give me the recipe). In my Aztek, I run a 50/50 mix. Cant wait to be able to truly paint a thin line finally! The smallest object Ive painted with my Aztek are the stars for my FOW US tank company on the turret and decks.

Below is a link for the PS900 that includes free shipping, air hose and quick connect for around $50.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300385170017&rvr_id=&crlp=1_263602_263622&UA=L*F%3F&GUID=1e1d58931280a0e20465a9f5fefda1af&itemid=300385170017&ff4=263602_263622

Moving to painting & modelling, which seems a slightly more appropriate place for this discussion...

Spacemanvic wrote:After doing some searches in a few airbrush forums, it turns out the Air Pro PS900 is the same as the Master Airbrush G44 and G43 as they are all made at the same Chinese factory. They are Iwata knockoffs that according to the reviewers really works.

As MoM is in Arizona, I dont think she has the same humidity issues I have on the East Coast. A moisture trap was a must as "wet" air wrecks heck with the paint I use.

Your best bet with learning to use an airbrush (especially a double action one) is to just use it on junk to get familiar with how your brush shoots paint. My Aztek's smallest needle is .30, the PS900 is .2, so there will be a slight learning curve in finding the right ratio (unless you've used Delta Ceramacoat MoM and can give me the recipe). In my Aztek, I run a 50/50 mix. Cant wait to be able to truly paint a thin line finally! The smallest object Ive painted with my Aztek are the stars for my FOW US tank company on the turret and decks.

Below is a link for the PS900 that includes free shipping, air hose and quick connect for around $50.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300385170017&rvr_id=&crlp=1_263602_263622&UA=L*F%3F&GUID=1e1d58931280a0e20465a9f5fefda1af&itemid=300385170017&ff4=263602_263622

Yep, I did alot of homework on the ps900 too, had the same results and saw some great work done with them. I gave my Iwata to a freind and been using my ps900 ever since. And Im pretty sure that link is the outift I bought mine from on ebay.

And youre right that humidity isnt an issue here ost of the time. But during monsoon season I make a point of only running my compressor on days with low humidity. Keeps the moisture build up in the air tank to a minimum so less rust and drier air in the brush

Wife is getting me the compressor tomorrow as an anniversary gift, so I'm ready to go!

First thing with be to just putz around til I get a feel for it, but after that, MoM, do you have advice on thinning foundation paint and regular paint? I remember you mentioning that foundation paint in specific was particular and specific to mini's, and most airbrushing forums wouldnt be familiar with it.

So I defer to the local expert!

The only GW paint I have is older than alot of the kids playing 40k

I've used vallejo paint almost exclusively since 2003 or so.

Les (L.Bursley ) has done a few video tutorials that are worth looking at http://thepaintingcorps.blogspot.com/search/label/Airbrush

And Atropos airbrush thread has some of the amazing art hes done and guides on how he's done alot of it.

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/251253.page

And FineScale Modeler has an excellent forum with many airbrush users that are experienced work at similar scales to our 40k stuff.

http://cs.finescale.com/fsmcs/forums/18.aspx

Vallejo is what I use too, but I figured that foundation paint would be good for basecoating?

I use Vallejo Game Color, but I can only assume you use their airbrush line?

Foundation are heavily pigmented and thick. You'd have to majorly thin them down to get good airbrush flow and that would make them lay down pretty poorly.

I'd just use the regular GW paints. Les uses them and makes them look good. Any acrylic or uro or enamel can be shot through an airbrush, some just work better than others.

I prefer AB specific paints but I have used Tamiya and Citadel for airbrushing.

Most of my vallejo paints are the model color range, which are a bit thicker than the game color line. Basic windex works pretty well for a thinning medium, but at an art supply store a good sized bottle of AB medium is under 10$ and works well too.

I got some Vallejo air paints several months back for like 1$ a bottle- and they work without needing to be thinned. But Im cheap and still thin them some to make them go farther

Mistress of minis wrote:.......I got some Vallejo air paints several months back for like 1$ a bottle- and they work without needing to be thinned. But Im cheap and still thin them some to make them go farther

Hush, it's called extravagantly frugal.

I think practical is just easier to say :p

Spacemanvic wrote:

Mistress of minis wrote:.......I got some Vallejo air paints several months back for like 1$ a bottle- and they work without needing to be thinned. But Im cheap and still thin them some to make them go farther

Hush, it's called extravagantly frugal.

Mistress of minis wrote:I think practical is just easier to say :p

Lol!

If you use just regular paints in the airbrush, do you basecoat them with a spraycan first to make sure they stick well, or do you just go straight to the regulars and skip priming all together?

You should always prime the minis, at least the metal. With a good layer of clear flaking should be minimal but without priming you run the risk of paint rubbing off just handling the mini during normal brush painting.

The only time I don't prime is when I'm basecoating plastic minis with paint made to adhere to plastic (Krylon fusion, Rustoleum Camouflage), other than that I like the added insurance of primer.

I still prime the stuff, airbrush paint goes on alot thinner than brushed on paint. So without proper priming it wont adhere very well and would rub off with just a little handling.

With the thinness it's also not going to obscure detail as easily (unless of course you glopped the primer on).

That's why basecoating with an airbrush is so forgiving. Unless you are willing to brush on paint thinned to the consistency of heavy cream (as the Slayer winners do with their entries to get such beautiful blends) the AB will do the same in a lot less time. I'm no GD painter but I imagine why those models take hundreds of hours is because of the many dozens of layers painted by hand to get those lifelike transitions of color. Obviously you can't do 100% of the mini with an airbrush but you could theoretically do the majority of the highlights, shadows and basecoat with an airbrush.

So, get a good primer; follow the directions for use that are on the can (not all primers behave the same so I always try to stick to the same brand all the time) and THEN airbrush.

Certain AB specific paints WILL stick just fine to plastic minis but for metal always prime, ALWAYS.

agreed, bought some airbrush paints for car models (not cars, models to be clear lol)

I will bust out a test mini or two, experiment with both black and white priming. First thing though, just fiddle with it spraying a canvas or something, to get a feel for the trigger.

Not sure when I will begin as I am working on the BA side of my Ultimate SpaceHulk project, But the 5 I scratchbuilt will get coated with the airbrush for sure. I think I am working on the 13 originals that are already started first though.

So many things to do, never enough time! My lawn won't mow itself either lol

Ya, practice is a good idea- prevents having to strip the models next week when you realize all the lil mistakes you made on the first few

I really want one of these sets and a set of needles I already have a base coat brush and compressor

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/professional-6-color-airbrush-kit-with-holder-95923.html

Ive looked at the Harbor Freight airbrushes, and....theyre better than the GW sprayer

Honestly- a 6 brush set up like that is for semi-commercial use for doing stuff like t-shirts or air tattoos at little fairs and stuff. Lets you use different colors without needing to clean a single brush in between. And those are siphon feed brushes, which can be really finnicky with the thicker paints.

I still stick by the suggestion of a top feed brush like a ps900 which you can get for 40-50$ on amazon and ebay.

Thanks for that link to the PS900, I'm thinking about buying that one since apparently it works and it's only $50.

Also, I guess this is directed at Mistress since she apparently uses a Wal-Mart compressor, but my parents have a regular compressor they use for air tools and I was wondering what I would have to do in order to make that work for airbrushing? Apologies if you've already explained in one of the other airbrushing threads.

If it has a pressure regulator and moisture trap, its ready to go. You'll need to get a 'quick connector' to attach your airbrush hose to- so it can click into the air compressor hose.

If you dont want to have to air brush at your parents house, look at my thread on making a portable air tank. You can fill it at your parents place- then leave when they get annoying!

And my walmart compressor is just a regular ole Campbell/Hausefeld that happened to be on sale at walmart years ago.

Eh, I don't paint often, so if I can take stuff over there in big batches it wouldn't be a problem. And my parents usually aren't that annoying, if anything I think I annoy them.

So I guess the idea would be to keep it at low pressure then, around 25-30 to avoid any "mishaps"?

All depends on the brush and hose. if you have a ps900 and get a braided hose its good up to 60 psi I believe- but 60 psi will blow plastic infantry all over the place I do most of my work at around 20 psi or so(and a ps900 has a MAC valve- which lets you fine tune the outflow pressure right on the brush- which can really help).

Just plan on practicing some and experimenting with the best way to thin paints.

Mistress of minis wrote:Just plan on practicing some and experimenting with the best way to thin paints.

I learned to airbrush mostly by painting terrain. Craters, hills, and then ruins and buildings etc... Great, great way to practice while still getting stuff done.

Yep- its alot more forgiving. And its an easy way to paint foam without melting it