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Whe using the super glue, always keep in mind that "less is more" as well.

1 Drop will dry 10x faster than a few drops. I've been so frustrated and splattered gobs into arm sockets only to hold it into 1 position for literally 10 minutes and the arm to fall off... at that point i just put the unit down and continue to watch tv/my movie for fear of destroying my unit.

Other times, i've put 1 small drop,held it for about 20 seconds and it stayed in position for me to lay down, and after a few minutes was rock solid.

Lately I've been working with the plastic glue since it seems to bond within a matter of seconds (not 100% bond, but enough that I can place the unit down).

So basically, as long as you're not using more than a little drop of plastic glue, it shouldn't be impossible to remove? Must have been the guy I got the carnifex from then. I know he's not the cleanest modeler

Yeah, I'll give it another chance.

Obviously using too much plastic glue, it should start to set after about fifteen seconds ''If you're doing it right'' then you can guide it into position. Recently i have been assembling my DE without plastic glue and boy have i missed it. Examples: Reaver jetbike riders, getting the hands to perfectly grip the handlebars without gluing them on was complete pot luck. gluing the belly onto the raider was another perfect example of when to use plastic glue, i now have an annoying 1mm gap in someplaces along the join because i forgot Super has no 'give'. And finally any model that holds a rifle you have to basically rely on GW's mini joint design at the wrist (which luckily for DE is excellent) or you gonna have alot of 'floating' arms or weapons. Get a jar of liquid poly cement and brush it on. leaves a fine weld less than a mill thick which you can snap at a later date if you so desire.

"Loctite Control" glue, gel for plastic (as it bonds) and normal liquid for metals and resin...

n0t_u wrote:Samus, you must be using some pretty rubbish plastic glue.

It's a cruel joke by GW to get you to buy more models instead of fixing old ones!

Maybe try some made by another company. You're looking for stuff called polystyrene cement, it's the same stuff but rather the real non-12 year old name for it (the name is instructions ).

I use these two and they work fairly well.




This thread also reminded me I need to get some more.

I've used that first one before, and it works well.

You might consider magnetizing the beast, if you got the goods. It covers up alot of area's. Besides; I'd hate to have a Carnifex without magnets, as there's so many options to this "little" f***er.
Anyways, if i'm not TOO wrong about this one, you should be able to remove the glue, if you put the parts into some cellulose - correct me if i'm wrong though, but i know it takes off paint and all sorts of other stuff. Might just work!

Alternatively, if all goes worse than wrong, you could always cut it up and turn it into a Tervigon, which absolutely rocks!

And as for glue, i more than agree with those wko claims that plastic glue absolutely sucks. I wouldnt' recomment it for anything. The pieces just falls apart eventually. Superglue is your friend. And it's not really that it costs that much more. I get, what, 3 small tubes of it for around 2 dollars - even less.

Without plastic glue, most of my models would not be in one piece. Not because I am rough with them, but because when my housemate split with his girlfriend she grabbed my model case (thinking it was his) and chucked it down the stairs, unlocked.

If my minis had been put together with superglue, it would have been a disaster. As it was, all I had to do was glue 2 arms back on and touch up some small chips.


I know what you are getting at, though, Samus- if you use too much plastic glue the model melts into lumpy crap. :(

Hah - not sure i'd bet my money on being prepared for having my mini's thrown down some stairs, TBH. But you do got an excellent point though!

I used Testors plastic glue for awhile. I didn't care for it. Takes too long to set for my impatient building habits, and I could never get the hang of how fast it came out of the bottle with it's non-clear tip and super thin formula.

Plastic glue is awesome, you just need to be sparing.

I prefer Super Glue over plastic glue, because if worse comes to worse I can always through my plastic model into a bucket of Super Clean, and in a few hours it will come apart.

Samus_aran115 wrote:Really? I was gluing some marines with my friend's plastic glue and I had to sit there holding the arms for what seemes like over minute or so. It was a real pain :3

This means you used too much.

Use less glue, add glue to BOTH sides of the join, and hold for about 20 to 30 seconds.

The problem with palstic glue is patience. You have to let your pieces dry before moving on. Superglue dries faster, but plastic glue does exactly what it was intended to do, when used right; adhere pieces permanently.

Those who know what their doing are far better off with plastic glue.


Eric


Automatically Appended Next Post:

Matrim wrote:if your holding plastic cement for minutes then your using too much. you just need a very thin layer on one of the surfaces, and it will grab straight away.

I responded before seeing this.
Obviously, I agree.
I get a better hold by applying to both sides, though, as it causes the plastic to belt on BOTH ends better, making the bond that much stronger.

Eric

MagickalMemories wrote:
Those who know what their doing are far better off with plastic glue.

This would appear to be the main issue with GW gamers and plastic models. They usually have <NFI about what they are doing.
Those who know what they are doing don't usually need to be told.
Those others will not listen no matter how many times they are told.

By all means keep using that superglue. It just makes it easier to fix your cock-ups when I buy your stuff second hand (so it can be taken apart and reglued properly).>

Catyrpelius wrote:I prefer Super Glue over plastic glue, because if worse comes to worse I can always through my plastic model into a bucket of Super Clean, and in a few hours it will come apart.

Yeah, this is my point, most of all. Especially when you get some junky models in a trade that have idiotic options on them that need to be taken off (for example, I get a champion in the mail that has melta-gun and a power fist)

But I'm really starting to see that using it sparingly is key. I'll go get some and try it on my shiny new box of CSM.

So the difference between Plastic glue, and superglue it that Plastic Glue makes the applied areas "gooey" (melts them temporarily) and hence merges them together, whilst the Super Glue just makes them stick?

I might've been using a horrible Plastic glue in that case. Though, i still perfeer the Super Glue over the Plastic, as i've had much better experienced with it

erm quick question, my friend has a hive tyrant with balrog wings (it looks freaking awesome) but anyway, its totally metal, fair enough but the problem is because of substanderd glue and a smooth surface (i dont know what he did to make them smooth x.x) they have no real grip (so basically it snapped of easily leaving a chunk on either part of the joint in random places) so the glue has just built up over time (2 years +) , this making it look odd and the joints horrific (and not in the good way), the problem is getting the glue of the male section of the joint without damaging it is easy enough, but i dont know how to fix the female part of the joint, any advice?

patience ^^ There are chemicals out there that can strip it off, or you could just use a superfine sandpaper over a drill piece or the like.

Tamaya super-thin plastic cement is great stuff.

Ink. wrote:patience ^^ There are chemicals out there that can strip it off, or you could just use a superfine sandpaper over a drill piece or the like.

thank you ill do that

I use the black bottle with the steel applicator needle. Works great and lasts forever

Samus_aran115 wrote:So basically, as long as you're not using more than a little drop of plastic glue, it shouldn't be impossible to remove?

When you use plastic cement on a plastic model, you should expect the bond to be permanent. I don't understand why you'd glue parts together with the intent to tear it appart later.

Plastic glue is fine until you get some models in a trade that were glued with it. You think that some weapon swaps will be easy, yet you pretty much have to break the pieces off if you want to make changes.

the revell glue is nice to use i have used it for since i began collecting my various gaming ranges as i used to buy the odd airfix model and build them up so revell was a natural choice for me works fine every time on plastic. if im working metal or resin id use a company called GALE FORCE NINE hobby glue and the rapaid cure glue accelerator pretty much a super glue but works brillanty

n0t_u wrote:


D

have to say that this is the stuff, as long as you dont go crazy whit the glu it´s no problem.

I use the super in case I ever do need to sell. Also helped when I decided to start magnetizing and super glue will let me pry off a misplaced magnet.

A friend of mine always uses superglue for everything(even the plastic models), but he always has stuff popping off(especially his Valkyrie). I only use superglue for non-plastic(metal, resin, whatever random stuff I may use for conversions in the future).

I used to use Testors for my plastic models, but it would always come out too fast, or not want to come out of the tube at all. I know some of you may curse me for this, but I've switched to the GW plastic glue for my plastic models, and find it works much better. It's a lot easier to apply the glue to the model, and I've had no problems with anything falling off, or drying, Sure I have to hold my tank pieces for a bit longer at times, but other then that it's fine)

I have a friend who swears by Tannex, but I can't stand the stuff.
I find that I like the stuff with more viscosity, and actually enjoy using GW's plastic glue.

And I've found more or less the same as everyone else: use plastic glue sparingly, clean your parts, and you won't have anyproblems with it.

Clumpski wrote:erm quick question, my friend has a hive tyrant with balrog wings (it looks freaking awesome) but anyway, its totally metal, fair enough but the problem is because of substanderd glue and a smooth surface (i dont know what he did to make them smooth x.x) they have no real grip (so basically it snapped of easily leaving a chunk on either part of the joint in random places) so the glue has just built up over time (2 years +) , this making it look odd and the joints horrific (and not in the good way), the problem is getting the glue of the male section of the joint without damaging it is easy enough, but i dont know how to fix the female part of the joint, any advice?

Clean off *ALL* of the old glue.
Pin the parts (I'd say 2 per wing, provided your pins are sturdy and long enough).

Use superglue and you should be fine.


I've taken to using "Gorilla Glue" brand superglue lately. It works REALLY well and holds wonderfully.

Dark Angels champion wrote:the revell glue is nice to use i have used it for since i began collecting my various gaming ranges as i used to buy the odd airfix model and build them up so revell was a natural choice for me works fine every time on plastic. if im working metal or resin id use a company called GALE FORCE NINE hobby glue and the rapaid cure glue accelerator pretty much a super glue but works brillanty

Fair warning about the accellerator.
You're creating a weaker join on the model by using it.
When superglue dries naturally, it shrinks and cures like it's supposed to, creating a strong bond. When you zap it with accellerator, you're just causing it to harden immediately. It doesn't cure or shrink. So, the bond isn't really there. You'll find yourself regluing models more often than the average gamer.

Don't get me wrong, I've used it in the past, but only under limited circumstances and only when that glue is not the only support the piece has.

Eric

Thaanos wrote:A friend of mine always uses superglue for everything(even the plastic models), but he always has stuff popping off(especially his Valkyrie). I only use superglue for non-plastic(metal, resin, whatever random stuff I may use for conversions in the future).

I used to use Testors for my plastic models, but it would always come out too fast, or not want to come out of the tube at all. I know some of you may curse me for this, but I've switched to the GW plastic glue for my plastic models, and find it works much better. It's a lot easier to apply the glue to the model, and I've had no problems with anything falling off, or drying, Sure I have to hold my tank pieces for a bit longer at times, but other then that it's fine)

They must've made a better one since the last time i tried theirs, 'cause the last thing i recall was my mini's arms and legs falling off from the slightest bumps.

Though i do believe there's a big difference in glue's nowadays, since you hear both good and bad about both kinds.

As anon would say.

Pics or it didn't happen.