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Panic wrote:I really don't get your problem with the ROBB, you say you hate boring boards that lack terrain, yet have a problem with the ROBB hills... your starting to sound quite boring... every single person who's played on mine has loved it!

PAnic...

Not sure about HBMC, but I personally dislike it because the hills do nothing. If you set it up with the hill in the middle, it's too short to block LOS or do anything useful. If you set it up with the hills at the edges, they do absolutely nothing. Yet they still count for the terrain total on the board. They're anti terrain.

the main reason I ain't gonna buy the mega paint set is then I won't be able to go into the local GW, lurk and mooch for half hour, leave with 1 pot of paint that I (need.) If I had every colour, I would have to either leave whilst buying NOTHING - or buy more ork boyz so I don't feel a cad for not buying anything. . . .

I like citadel paints but i am not a fan of the pots or paying that much for such a tiny amount of paint.
I have started to use vallejo when my citadel ones run out, i mix colours alot too, so the droppers are a god send.
I have no gripe to those that want to buy it though, each to his own and all that, though if you buy it in Aus, you are a mad man !!

Flachzange wrote:

Necros wrote:Would be nice to replenish a lot of my older paints in one fell swoop.. but, I really don't like the new lids that don't stay up :( some do, and some don't, it's hella annoying :( I've been switching over to Vallejo because of it, but paint wise I think I still like Citadel better. I like to drybrush a lot, and vallejo tends to be more watery.

Sorry fot the OT but ... a toothpick will solve that issue for you easily. Open the lid up all the way and you should be able to guess where the pick goes!!

there you go ....

Yep that's what I end up doing.. but what can I say, I'm grumpy, old and lazy

Flachzange wrote:

Necros wrote:Would be nice to replenish a lot of my older paints in one fell swoop.. but, I really don't like the new lids that don't stay up :( some do, and some don't, it's hella annoying :( I've been switching over to Vallejo because of it, but paint wise I think I still like Citadel better. I like to drybrush a lot, and vallejo tends to be more watery.

Sorry fot the OT but ... a toothpick will solve that issue for you easily. Open the lid up all the way and you should be able to guess where the pick goes!!

there you go ....

It's a fix, but it's also stupid that you'd have to do that to keep a paint pot open...

I would suggest that it's stupid to complain about pots that don't hold themselves open, when common consensus is to decant onto a pallet and thin.

I was thiiiiiiis close to preordering but I'm thinking I won't use them much. I barely use the GW paints I have now.

Washes are great and some colors are unique but I will never ever buy paint deals from GW, the pots are stupid, paint overpriced and they will dry fast, sometimes even in never opened pots... I switched to vallejo's long time ago when almost all my GW's paints dried, and I had a bucked load of those.

I'm, very careful with my pots and store them in clean environment, away from dust at nice temperatures etc but when about almost all my one hundred pots dried, some never used or opened I knew these were really just another crappy overpriced deal... At that time i had something like 20 vallejos and I still have those around. Today I have much more than 100 vallejos, some reapers and P3 and just a couple GW colors and washes that I really like... So yes you can say overall GW paints are inferior, not because of the color or pigment but just because the pots are slowed and paints will dry fast...

Wow. I treat mine like crap and never have that problem.

CadianCommander wrote:What's with the angst? Other than the price of course.

Asked and answered!

CadianCommander wrote:Wow. I treat mine like crap and never have that problem.

Indeed. I use a variety of paints depending on my needs; some Vallejo, some P3, and some GW. Each range offers certain benefits/does certain colours in a way that I prefer, hence my using all three, and I've never noticed any broad qualitative flaws to the Citadel paints over the others. Indeed, the worst pots I've found to use have been the P3 ones, while Vallejo have been the company I've had the most paint consistency issues with (i.e. they tend to separate the most - both in bottle and on the [wet] palette - all solvable through a lot of shaking/mixing, of course). If I had the money - and didn't already own most of the GW paints I have a use for - I'd have no qualms about buying the set - hell, though I probably wouldn't get much use out of the brushes, I'm sure my girlfriend would!

notprop wrote:I would suggest that it's stupid to complain about pots that don't hold themselves open, when common consensus is to decant onto a pallet and thin.

I'd suggest that it's stupid to assume that your "common consensus" method of painting is the same for everyone. Depending on their use, paints often do not require thinning, and again, there are many times where using a palette simply wastes paint - when you're only using a small amount of a colour.

Regardless, a paint pot that won't stay open - after years of being able to - is a step backwards, and a stupid move.


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wiper wrote:
Indeed. I use a variety of paints depending on my needs; some Vallejo, some P3, and some GW. Each range offers certain benefits/does certain colours in a way that I prefer, hence my using all three, and I've never noticed any broad qualitative flaws to the Citadel paints over the others. Indeed, the worst pots I've found to use have been the P3 ones, while Vallejo have been the company I've had the most paint consistency issues with (i.e. they tend to separate the most - both in bottle and on the [wet] palette - all solvable through a lot of shaking/mixing, of course). If I had the money - and didn't already own most of the GW paints I have a use for - I'd have no qualms about buying the set - hell, though I probably wouldn't get much use out of the brushes, I'm sure my girlfriend would!

I've found that my Citadel paints from the newer ranges of paint dry out the fastest. The newer pots are better than the hexagonal screw-caps, but then those are the worst I've encountered. Even the newer flip-tops dry out much, much faster than the HMG or Vallejos. I've still got Original Citadel paints in the same pots that P3 use (HMG paints) that I can still use - after more than 20 years!

Something I've noticed about the new pots is that the ones that I've let(through neglecting to clean them, mostly in haste after painting) a lot of dried up paint accumulate around the 'ring' of the cap--the seal isn't as tight letting air in, and it dries out faster.

TL;DR version: Clean the ring of the cap and your paints last far, far, far longer.

If there were a single Citadel paint that could be used straight from the pot* without being too thick for general use and severely impacting on the lifespan of your brush, then that argument would hold water. As it is, however, no. None of the Citadel paints** are suitable for undilute general usage, unless you enjoy destroying the detail on your models and/or ruining your brushes.

The fact that GW no longer tacitly encourage people to misuse their paints in that way by having the lids lock open is a good thing. They should never have done so in the first place - it took me years to shake my habit of painting from the pot, convinced that it was fine because hey - why would they lock open otherwise? The day I was gently shown the difference that using watered down paint made to my paintjobs, and to the lifespan of my brushes, was a revelation. And the cost of any 'wasted' paint from using a wet-palette is far, far exceeded by the savings made from using less paint in general per layer, and from the drastic drop in brush wear.


*with the notable exception of the pre-made washes, and Chaos Black, though even that has to be mixed or watered down for any use that didn't involve hiding all the detail on your model. The other exception comes from painting vast, relatively featureless objects - terrain, for example - using larger, tougher brushes. But then you'd be better off not using any of the tiny pots of paint supplied for miniature work.

**see above

Edit: just saw your edit - amusingly, I've some of those hexagonal screwcaps (agreed on the awfulness - purely because screwcaps + any product that sets are not a good combination) from the 1996 big box, and while the metallics all died, the generic paints (and the inks, of course) all still survive, though they did need some water to thin them down.

I got the whole paint set for free from my local gaming store for painting miniatures for them.

I just tried to preorder the paint set this weekend. I was also trying to purchase dreadfleet and a white scars commander. The transaction got blocked by my bank haha. Guess I should stick to my guns and not get the paint set (or dreadfleet).

I've already got brushes, tools, paints (GW and Testors), as well as a GW case. I simply can't justify the cost for this, even if it is an overall savings, when I already have most of the components.

Therefore, I made an order for some Battlefoam and will use that in one of my extra GW cases. $60 shipped isn't cheap for foam but holds a lot more than what GW is doing.

Flachzange wrote:Sorry fot the OT but ... a toothpick will solve that issue for you easily. Open the lid up all the way and you should be able to guess where the pick goes!!

there you go ....

Clever, but the older pots were better. My wife and I were just debating this the other day. I am a fan of the white covered ones or the black flip top ones. The newest are kind of annoying, toothpick or no.

scipio.au wrote: No idea what brand my brushes are. Every so often I just go to a hobby/model store and buy a bunch of new ones.

I used to do this when I first started, but it turns out that "cheap" brushes are actually pretty expensive if you factor how often they need to be replaced. No matter how well my $2 golden taklon brushes got cleaned, within 3-4 weeks they'd start to curl at the tips or get all puffy and screwed up. A $8 GWS brush lasted me a good year and a half, and my W&N ones are almost a year old and still like the day they arrived.

While I'd recommend new painters do start out with cheap brushes while you learn how to clean them properly, "more expensive" sable ones will last 10 times as long, and so are much cheaper in the long run.

I miss the old hexagon pots. I've still got a load of them, and they're so much better. Still, good idea with the toothpick.

wiper wrote:If there were a single Citadel paint that could be used straight from the pot* without being too thick for general use and severely impacting on the lifespan of your brush, then that argument would hold water. As it is, however, no. None of the Citadel paints** are suitable for undilute general usage, unless you enjoy destroying the detail on your models and/or ruining your brushes.

The fact that GW no longer tacitly encourage people to misuse their paints in that way by having the lids lock open is a good thing. They should never have done so in the first place - it took me years to shake my habit of painting from the pot, convinced that it was fine because hey - why would they lock open otherwise? The day I was gently shown the difference that using watered down paint made to my paintjobs, and to the lifespan of my brushes, was a revelation. And the cost of any 'wasted' paint from using a wet-palette is far, far exceeded by the savings made from using less paint in general per layer, and from the drastic drop in brush wear.

I use paint straight from the pots for a variety of things and always have. Basecoats, obviously, as well as minute amounts of colour for detail (eyes, teeth, tattoos, etc). I use a palette for mixed colours and for thinning paints for highlighting/shading. Sometimes I thin paints for general use, but that's pretty much just with foundation paints. Check the painted figures in my gallery pages on my blog (linked below) if you think that painting from the pot makes your figures look like arse or is unfeasable. Most recent things on there are the chronopia figures which were painted pretty much a couple of days before they went up. The flesh, cloth, fur and leather all came straight from pots, as does some of the finest detail as mentioned before. Oh, and of course unthinned paint straight from pots (again, unless I want a mixed colour) for drybrushing work.

The other thing of course, is that when I'm making a mix on my palette, I want the paint pot to stay open so I can get it out without needing to hold the pot open. Point still stands that making the pots not hold themselves open is a silly, pointless change.


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Ouze wrote:

scipio.au wrote: No idea what brand my brushes are. Every so often I just go to a hobby/model store and buy a bunch of new ones.

I used to do this when I first started, but it turns out that "cheap" brushes are actually pretty expensive if you factor how often they need to be replaced. No matter how well my $2 golden taklon brushes got cleaned, within 3-4 weeks they'd start to curl at the tips or get all puffy and screwed up. A $8 GWS brush lasted me a good year and a half, and my W&N ones are almost a year old and still like the day they arrived.

While I'd recommend new painters do start out with cheap brushes while you learn how to clean them properly, "more expensive" sable ones will last 10 times as long, and so are much cheaper in the long run.

I don't really have this problem. Of course, I've got about 20-30(?) fine detail brushes in my little stash right now, and the ones I use on any given day are almost random. When they start to curl they go from detail brushes to basecoat brushes to small (detail) drybrushes.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

pretre wrote:

Flachzange wrote:Sorry fot the OT but ... a toothpick will solve that issue for you easily. Open the lid up all the way and you should be able to guess where the pick goes!!

there you go ....

Clever, but the older pots were better. My wife and I were just debating this the other day. I am a fan of the white covered ones or the black flip top ones. The newest are kind of annoying, toothpick or no.

Here are the white ones - if you want to keep using those paints. Same company that made the original Citadel paints. (they still sell the original Space Marine Paint Set!)
http://www.maelstromgames.co.uk/index.php?act=cat&cre=hob-cda&sou=cat

scipio.au wrote:
Here are the white ones - if you want to keep using those paints. Same company that made the original Citadel paints. (they still sell the original Space Marine Paint Set!)
http://www.maelstromgames.co.uk/index.php?act=cat&cre=hob-cda&sou=cat

OMG Inks! My wife may go crazy. Tytyty.

Inks were usually too glossy for my tastes. Then again, I did get some interesting results when I mixed them with similarly colored paint.

wow... after reading all of this I suddenly feel like such a huge fan boy for being excited to see this set come out

ah well

Gymnogyps wrote:Hmm, appears it is same as last year, except the glue is a new format. Price is USD $247.50. Anyone remember the list price last year?

It was the same price last year. It also sold out surprisingly quickly in my local shops last year.

I've always wanted to buy one of these, but I have nearly no use for it. I have a good set of brushes, a nice range of Vallejo Model and Reaper Master Series paints, and plenty of supplies.

But... it's a complete set!

It is a good deal if you compare it to the price of buying everything separately. Still, people who don't have most of this stuff will find it a better value than people who do.

Here are the other Hobby products released 19th November:

Citadel Paint Station Plus ( 40 €)
Includes the paint station, the cutting mat, 2 water pots, and 2 small pallettes all fitting into the paint station.

'eavy Metal Brush Set ( 39 €, while supply lasts)
Includes large and standard brush, hand made, Kolinski hair, metal case with 'eavy Metal logo (holds a total of 8 brushes), 2 pots of clear matte ink to dilute paints, and an 8-page booklet with pro-tipps.

'eavy Metal Masterclass ( 23.50 €, while supply lasts)
a full colour 96-page best-of masterclass WD-articles

Tufts of Grass (10.50 €, lighter and normal green variant)
basically a copy of the product, MiniNatur invented: http://www.shop.battlefield-berlin.de/index.php/katalog/showarticles/81120-1-bushes.html

Dice Cube Special Edition (6.25 €, while supply lasts)
Same as normal dice cubes, but with transparent colours: Clear, blue, red, green, yellow.

Large Army Figure Case (95 €, while supply lasts)
Same as this one ( http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat440149a&prodId=prod1095468 ) but in tan with 40k logo or in green with Warhammer logo, one half with foam for tanks or monsters, the other half for 120 infantry miniatures.

pretre wrote:

scipio.au wrote:
Here are the white ones - if you want to keep using those paints. Same company that made the original Citadel paints. (they still sell the original Space Marine Paint Set!)
http://www.maelstromgames.co.uk/index.php?act=cat&cre=hob-cda&sou=cat

OMG Inks! My wife may go crazy. Tytyty.

They have a 16% off coupon at the moment, too. I forgot what it is but look in this forum for the Maelstrom thread - it's in there. If not I'll post it when I get home from work (if I remember).

Let me know, my searching skills are failing here.