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Anyone using them in airbrushes yet?

I used Ceramite White on the underside of a Razorwing Jetfighter, over a black primer. First coat was streaky as hell, but the 2nd coat seems quite a lot smoother. I still think it'll need a third coat, but considering it's a) painting over black and b) painting on very large flat surfaces that isn't too bad. Certainly better than Skull White.

Nuln Oil seems almost the same as Badab Black but sits in the recesses better. It also doesn't seem to pool as much on flat surfaces.

Sotek Green is similar to Hawk Turquoise but a little more blue in tint. Seems to apply brilliantly though, everything I've used it on so far has been smooth after one coat!

Mephiston Red is very smooth but much brighter than Mechrite Red. To be honest it's close to Blood Red (minus the millions of coats needed for a smooth finish).

Leadbelcher looks to be duller than Boltgun Metal and the paint (to me at least) seems thinner despite being a base paint. Regardless, it covers pretty well.

Hashut Copper is pretty close to Dwarf Bronze, but there is a definite difference (Copper seems to have more brown in it).

Abaddon Black is the only paint so far I'm not impressed with. Whether it's just my pot is a bad one I'm not sure but it seems very thin; it paints on more like a layer paint than a base. Could just be a bad pot, not sure.

MeanGreenStompa wrote:Anyone using them in airbrushes yet?

I sprayed a bit of Agrax Earthshade this evening... tbh it felt no different to Devlan Mud. Havent tryed an opaque colour from the new line yet, but I'm not expecting any issues.

Does anyone have a review for Necron Abyss vs. Kantor blue yet? I looked at the color in store, but I'm really iffy about it because it looks so much lighter.

Here is a quick 2 pics of the main colors I wanted to test(as I find these 3 are the hardest paints to do well).

First up is a fire warrior that was all black. This model has 2 coats of Averland Sunset, 2 coats of Ceramite White, and only 1 coat of Mephiston Red.



Next up is a space marine with only 2 layers of Mephiston Red.




I'm quite pleased with each paints performance. Haven't tried out the 2 metallics I got yet.

I have about 25 pots of the new paints, including 4 Shades, 1 Drybrush, Imperial Primer, 1 Texture and the rest split between Bases and Layers. So far things are favorable for me, but no substantive pictures just yet. I should have them soon.

I've been working on my Dreadfleet models, working particularly with The Dwarf Battleship, the Khemri Ship, and the Chaos Dwarf sub... lots of metallics on these ones. I had already painted most of these models using Tin Bitz as the base metallic for the golds, but today I realized I had missed a few spots. So I decided to try out Balthazar Gold.

It went on very smoothly, which is good, has a sheen similar to tin bitz... but the real difference came when I was applying Shining Gold over it.

I found that when painting on the Shining Gold, when it came to the parts that had been painted with Tin Bitz, I've always had to coax paint onto the model, or apply it a few times to get it to stick properly. With the same mix, applied over the Balthazar Gold, the paint went over smoothly with basically one application. I think that's something to pay attention to....

So far I like what I see. A very quick yellow is painting Ceramite White (Base) and then applying Casandora Yellow as the shade, and you have a great looking yellow. Just be warned, Casandora Yellow looks orange in the pot, but it really is a yellow Shade.

Aerethan wrote:Here is a quick 2 pics of the main colors I wanted to test(as I find these 3 are the hardest paints to do well).

Spoiler:

First up is a fire warrior that was all black. This model has 2 coats of Averland Sunset, 2 coats of Ceramite White, and only 1 coat of Mephiston Red.



Next up is a space marine with only 2 layers of Mephiston Red.

I'm quite pleased with each paints performance. Haven't tried out the 2 metallics I got yet.

Are those thinned?

That pic was before I added my usual concoction of retarder and flo-aid/water mix, which smoothed out the white and red a nice bit, haven't thinned the yellow yet.

Im using the golden griffon to highlight gold. Works like a charm

I'm quite liking the new paints. Here's my project for the weekend. Almost entirely the new paints, excepting the blue. Mephiston Red +Carroburg Crimson is winning. This is one coat over a white base.

Ceramite white is rather nice, two coats of it makes black into clean white. I really like the drybrush paints, they're very good at what they do. Necron Compound looks fantastic over black, though it's not as clear in the images.

Looks pretty good. My Mephiston Red doesn't settle into the recesses, it just stains the whole model =(

Mephiston Red is a Base. Do you mean Carroburg Crimson?

I have not used the new paints yet... But did any other store have a problem with the paints showing up with the lids not all sealed down tightly? A bunch of ours had the lids open a bit. My Guess is the shrink wrap was pulling the lids open.

Here is my two cents about the white paint with a video demo.

http://bloodofkittens.com/blog/2012/04/08/network-news-getting-your-white-on-with-new-gw-paints/

Errr yeah I meant Carroburg, sorry!

jazzpaintball wrote:
The people, like me, that are looking to be able to go over with a thicker coat of paint to smooth out edges or dimples are going to hate this paint.

That's not what paint is for. That's part of the clean up and prep stage.

Ok so i've played with the reds, in general I'm finding that the paints all seem to have more of a matte finish, Argax (the new devlan) tends to do the same thing as devlan but it has more of a stain, same for the carroburg, so I'm thinking that a more targeted application of both is required, no more dunking i think, tomorrow i'll post pics side by side of devlan and argax over mechrite (as its the basis of all cloth in my undead army).

I'm doing a blood angel using new paints for the red, will put it up when i'm done (hopefully tomorrow) I'm using targeted washing rather than dipping (which I usually do) so we will see how it turns out, i'll put it next to the one I did using old paints and dipping, the new is a lot brighter but you can make your own decisions.

yeah i agree with the targeting approach to the new shades and glazes...actually i really like the glazes.

had my bloodletters done rather nicelly, i was really happy with them using the old paints. one of the guys in store thought that it might be cool to try the new red glaze on them to make them look wet n make them pop, so we gave it a shot, nd yeah it was good but he did it over the whole model, liek i would have withthe old washes, nd it wasn't as wet as i thought it would be, definatelly brightened it up a bit but it stained some of the whiter highlights i had on the model that i was really fond of.

next we tried targeting specific parts of the bloodletters (another model this time) nd i think it came out really well, we kept the whiter highlights, popped the parts we glazed, they really came out nice n red and gave it a whole other bright tone and it didn't affeect the shaded areas at all.

so all in all i'm redoing my entire army with targeted glazing (since they are daemons is makes sence)

also i have the technical lamhime medium which i have found to work really really well with the old paints, yeah its' basically just a thinner but it lets you mix colors really well too into new shades/washes. My fav application is using it with metals, thin them to a wash and apply over a layer for a little extra dimension then shade n glaze. very nice subtle effects.

Been playing with the new paints since Saturday - I'm really impressed, tbh. My first impression is that they make painting really easy as you see progress very quickly. So much so that I've finished more minis this weekend than I have in 3 months, 2 of them completely from primer. I really like the shades (washes) and the bases are very solid. I'll try and get some pics up to show the results.

Can anyone give us a rundown on the new gold metallics? Orki mentioned the silvers are a downgrade and more flaky. I haven't heard anything about the new golds though. Thanks ahead of time!

~Casey

I don't understand GW's new suggestion for the washes of putting them after the basecoat but before the layers.

I usually use a wash after I've completed a whole model to try to blend the highlights together again

Compel wrote:I don't understand GW's new suggestion for the washes of putting them after the basecoat but before the layers.

I usually use a wash after I've completed a whole model to try to blend the highlights together again

I think that putting the wash on after the basecoat would be considered using a Shade under the new terminology, while the layer to tie the highlights together would be a glaze.

GW is confusing. The Khorne Berzerker & Bloodletter has you painting Khorne Red, then layering and covering most of the model in Wazdakka Red, then doing highlights with Squig Orange. Basecoat, layer covering almost everything, then edge highlights (for Bloodletter only - for Berzerker, it shows Khorne Red washed Carroburg Crimson and then 2 layers of edge highlight, leaving Khorne Red as main color...so weird)

The example in the crap book for Aurora Chapter has you basecoat Waagh Flesh, then cover the whole model in Warpstone Glow, then wash Coelia Green, then reapply Warpstone Glow, then do edge highlights with Moot Green. Base coat, layer 1, wash, layer 1, edge h/l with layer 2.

They also did this with the Space Wolf tutorial in White Dwarf (hmm 2 months in a row...1 with old paint 1 with new...hmmm...). Basecoat The Fang, Basecoat Russ Grey, wash Agrax Earthshade, reapply Russ grey, then do edge highlights with Fenrisian Grey.

MAKE UP YOUR MIND GW!

I really like the glazes so far. Tried yellow and red and they added some nice rich tone to those colors. They aren't quite the same as washes, less likely to run into the crevices.

Averland yellow airbrushed very nicely when properly thinned.

I'm bummed about devlan mud's replacement. It's not supposed to stain as much as it does. Devlan was amazing and I hate to see it go :(

I didn't find the book to be "crap"?

Rogues Gambit wrote:yeah i agree with the targeting approach to the new shades and glazes

Targeting? For shades, formerly known as washes? Targeting approach? So what you are saying is that the new 'washes' are a horrible, awful step down from the current product????

I've used the new version of Tin Bitz which is called Warplock Bronze and have to say it's absolutely fine. The colour is basically exactly the same as the old Tin Bitz even though GW's own colour chart shows it as more of a purple(ish) colour. It also behaves in the same way for me - I drybrushed it onto an undercoated model which is how I used to use Tin Bitz. Bottom line, I'm very please with Warplock Bronze.

Joe Mama wrote:

Rogues Gambit wrote:yeah i agree with the targeting approach to the new shades and glazes

Targeting? For shades, formerly known as washes? Targeting approach? So what you are saying is that the new 'washes' are a horrible, awful step down from the current product????

Not a horrible step down, but different, you do not have to target with new Devlan as much as you do with new Baal. If you read a lot of the older painting guides most of them suggest targeting washes, my guess was that this was always the intent, but the older ones forgave it more.

Not a favorable review.

Sirius42 wrote:

Joe Mama wrote:

Rogues Gambit wrote:yeah i agree with the targeting approach to the new shades and glazes

Targeting? For shades, formerly known as washes? Targeting approach? So what you are saying is that the new 'washes' are a horrible, awful step down from the current product????

Not a horrible step down, but different ... If you read a lot of the older painting guides most of them suggest targeting washes, my guess was that this was always the intent, but the older ones forgave it more.

So it is a horrible step down, for the large number of people who wash a whole model with mud or black wash. I liked GW washes precisely because they would shade the crevices, and not just glaze the whole model. If the new 'shades' are more glaze-like than the old wash formulas, that is bad. ESPECIALLY since GW also came out with glazes. If anything their shades should have been less glaze-like than the old washes. Another boneheaded move here by GW, if this is true, as the washes were the best products they had.

I think it varies from shade to shade, you can dip with argax and the green, I would'nt with the red though, i'm yet to use nuln oil so someone else will have to decide on that one.