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 feltmonkey wrote:
Yeah, I can see that is the appeal of it, but isn't it just paint for people who don't like painting?

Them, and people who like painting with inks.


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meatybtz wrote:

Think, thick, like Army Painter's Quickshade.. but more pigment intense. As dark as for example the strong tone is, strong tone isn't that "opaque" compared to the "black" contrast being offered.

Strong Tone is a brown wash. Dark Tone would be the Quickshade comparable with the black... but yes, they're not as opaque. The black on this was done with two coats of Dark Tone over white, and isn't as dark as the Contrast black. Whether or not that's a good thing depends on how you want to use them - the Contrast paints are clearly quite good as a single coat if you want that specific shade. The Quickshades being a little less opaque gives you a little more control over the tone by using multiple layers, although the coloured Quickshades are slightly more vibrant than their browns and Dark Tone. The blue and purple on that linked model was only a single layer, for example.

I think I saw white in there... how would that work?
My current SM dudes are mostly white. I'm not a particularly accomplished painter, but I've come up with a way to do the white that doesn't make me want to scream.
I'm wondering if I can get a similar effect with a little less effort.
To be clear, my guys are NOT winning any awards, they're just barely above the minimum.

 Zubbiefish wrote:
I think I saw white in there... how would that work?

The 'White' is a pale grey:


So it should shade into the creases with grey, leaving the white highlights.

 insaniak wrote:

 feltmonkey wrote:
Yeah, I can see that is the appeal of it, but isn't it just paint for people who don't like painting?

Them, and people who like painting with inks.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

meatybtz wrote:

Think, thick, like Army Painter's Quickshade.. but more pigment intense. As dark as for example the strong tone is, strong tone isn't that "opaque" compared to the "black" contrast being offered.

Strong Tone is a brown wash. Dark Tone would be the Quickshade comparable with the black... but yes, they're not as opaque. The black on this was done with two coats of Dark Tone over white, and isn't as dark as the Contrast black. Whether or not that's a good thing depends on how you want to use them - the Contrast paints are clearly quite good as a single coat if you want that specific shade. The Quickshades being a little less opaque gives you a little more control over the tone by using multiple layers, although the coloured Quickshades are slightly more vibrant than their browns and Dark Tone. The blue and purple on that linked model was only a single layer, for example.

Right.. was staring at my Dark Tone and said Strong.... Dunno, both are sitting on my painting desk atm. Thanks for correcting that. I am very interested in these new "inks" because it just is another tool in the tool box. People may lambast them as "easy mode" but honestly. If people use them right they still look better than most Eavy Metal from the late 80s and early 90s (the clown era). And certainly look better than the "Please Kill me" paintjobs we have all seen (and done when n00bs).

For the non-painting inclined it provides a means to get to the table and game w/o going "Please Kill me". For the experienced painter, it really is another tool in the tool box. I see no real downside to this product. There are "similar" but not equal products on the market. Good job GW, producing a product that will sell and that is all theirs. I can respect that.

I will definitely be picking up a few pots and trying them out. It's a neat idea for those 'grunts' when you have 20 of them to paint...

 pancakeonions wrote:
I will definitely be picking up a few pots and trying them out. It's a neat idea for those 'grunts' when you have 20 of them to paint...

20..
try 120 skellys for a 2000p LoN AoS army.
and thats just the core troops......

Idle browsing on YouTube found this.

Impressions from hands on, and additional info.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=gdg5fOuWLYo

Best thing in a long time. As someone who wants a painted army but has 2 kids and one on the way as well as a college student, it’s hard for me to find time. Now I can get double if not triple the models done to an ok table top standard, then go through and touch up details with other paints. There was a group on Spikey bits saying when they see people who used it, they are going to bash them. That is an elitist mindset that won’t get them far at all. Poor lads..

I find my current methods to be perfectly satisfactory, but then I enjoy painting.

I can see this being a wonderful thing for those who want to play miniature games, but hate painting.

Pain4Pleasure wrote:
Best thing in a long time. As someone who wants a painted army but has 2 kids and one on the way as well as a college student, it’s hard for me to find time. Now I can get double if not triple the models done to an ok table top standard, then go through and touch up details with other paints. There was a group on Spikey bits saying when they see people who used it, they are going to bash them. That is an elitist mindset that won’t get them far at all. Poor lads..

That is truly sad.

I am a bit of a paint elitist in so much as I think painting is one of the major parts of this hobby but I can get it that others are new or just don't have the knack. So why should they excluded or charged a higher entry fee (painting services)?

More players = good
More fun = good
More sales of product = good

Remember cost is higher the fewer sales there are. People may bitch but our hobby is a microscopic niche compared even to general model building. Total sales are tiny. That means costs are higher. When they are in every Michaels selling GW products because the market is as large as the model car/tank/plane hobby the costs would go down considerably.

More players, more sales. All good things for the whole damned hobby. We are constantly at risk of being Model Trained. That hobby is become so niche that it's almost gone except for shittly little kits for kids at some major stores but it's all mass produced chinese junk. Little variety. There was a time up through the 90s when model trains were still a major hobby. Not anymore. It died out.

Same thing can happen to wargamming.

Sale are good for us all. The more GW sells the better it is for all of us. The same with Privateer Press and other smaller companies. The more they sell the more interest there is in our hobby the more players there are the more interest there will be from investors and onward. I doubt we'll ever be an everyman's game.. but growth is good.

Wow sometimes I feel embarrassed being associated with a certain niche of nerds who partake of this hobby.. I really don't get the hate for this product... Even if my mind hadn't been changed from assuming they were just for tabletop standard painters to now thinking they will have uses for advanced painters too, it wouldn't change the fact that theyre a decent product, and who cares how someone paints their stuff. Need to grow up a little bit.

If you ask me, these paints are nothing new. That technique is called dipping and so far was only used with brown shades over base-coated minis. GW took it a step further and now uses coloured dips directly on primed minis. Great if you want to push out an army in a single afternoon or two. But it won't ever win a painting competition and it's not meant to either.

I am painting on a very high standard (I think that's fair to say) and I was hoping to get some new tools in my toolbox. However, 'Eavy metal painters said they aren't great to be thinned with water, which... kind of kills the whole line for me. They are also said to shrink and to create textures (if you want or not), which would be a no-go for a smooth surface. I will give it a try to see if they can be used as glazes too, but so far, it does not sound as if they will be very useful for advanced level painting. I hope I'm wrong, because what GW needs are paints with a transparency between Layer and Glaze. On the other hand, I could keep using Reaper or WarColours for that...

Well I was impressed with what I saw in the eavy metal demo using them. He was thinning with water like normal(far as I'm aware, he was licking his brush) so I'm not sure what the deal is there.. I think they can be used as highly pigmented glazes. I'm not going to discount them as a potential addition to my paint box.

Correct me if I am wrong but the consistency appears to be identical to their "gem" paints.

Those will in fact wrinkle if you mess with them as they dry. There are tricks to using them. Likely the same here. Again I fully intend to buy a few and experiment. Dollar for Dollar the cost of doing so is minimal compared to what I put, overall, into the hobby. If they suck, they get roundfiled.

Darren latham did gem's and shiny faceplates with them in the demo that I saw. They looked pretty good and he didn't seem to have to do anything special or wait for them to cure or anything.

I am one of those with an enormous backlog, several games worth. They’d definitely help in some areas, but they wouldn’t help in all areas.

What I'd use them for:

Imperial Guard: I've got a blend of different things, Cadian, Kasrkin, Catachan, Vostroyan, Scions, Kitbash Elysian, and Starfleet Marines that really can’t be used en masse anywhere else. Cadians are already primed Dark Grey for the armor, and the clothing will be red, so I might do some white drybrush then Contrast to see how that works (I have a billion Cadians so ruining a few to get it right won’t hurt). Too late for Catachan, might use some on the Elysians and Vostroyans too. Starfleet Marines I probably won’t just because I value them more, but if the Contrast looks good, I might.

30k Ultrasmurfs: I've got 150 assorted heresy era Space Marines and Terminators. Initial plan was to do Thousand Sons, but the color I wanted didn’t work out and was impossible to correct without stripping. Ultramarines would be fast and easy to do; decision now is what color to prime. Macragge Blue spray doesn’t match the pot paint and I am error prone so I'd prefer something close to the pot paint (everyone says wash, but I can still see the corrections over the mistakes). Perhaps the Macragge Blue spray plus the Ultramarines Blue Contrast will match the pot paint better? Other option would be prime Leadbelcher, highlight, and then Ultramarines Blue Contrast and correct any mistakes with highlight color, as scarring.

Emperor’s Spears: Current scheme (see attached, missing decals and final matte varnish) is Caledor Sky, shade of Drakenhoff, then layer Teclis and highlight of Lothern. Looks good but it’s a lot of effort for a light blue. I would love to try a sky blue using Contrast paints, at least for the troops.

What I wouldn’t use them for:

Characters and special units: These are the centerpieces of the army and need to be the best that I can do. Unless the technique I want to use on a part requires, or would benefit from, using Contrast paints, then I won’t use them.

Thousand Sons: My scheme with the few that I have is gold base with Red Ink in the recessed regions. There’s nothing here (besides maybe tabards) that Contrast could improve.

Vehicles: These have lots of flat areas and need to look painted anyways, so a no-go on the Contrast.

Not sure:

Genestealer Cult: I don’t have any yet, but these would be good to use for Conscripts should they become usable again. If they can look shoddy and grimey with Contrast paints (think Savlar Chem Dogs), then maybe.

Tzaangors: I really don’t like the Chicken barbarians, but literally everyone who plays Thousand Sons tells me to get them. If I do end up getting them, I want a scheme that makes them look somewhat ethereal, just enough that they look like they don’t belong. If I can get that effect with Contrast and something else, then maybe.

Overall, I agree with the rest of the posts; Contrast is good for painting hordes and could be used for getting good looks on certain things like skin and clothing. I have a lot of testing to do in order for me to see if it’s worthwhile for me to use.

 insaniak wrote:

 Zubbiefish wrote:
I think I saw white in there... how would that work?

The 'White' is a pale grey:

Spoiler:

So it should shade into the creases with grey, leaving the white highlights.

You can see a pretty good example of the Apothecary White contrast paint at the 4 minute mark of the following video...

 Hendarion wrote:
But it won't ever win a painting competition and it's not meant to either.

Sounds like a challenge to me

I'm a miniature finisher rather than miniature painter, so I think this is a great product. I also don't play with or against unpainted miniatures so anything that helps people get their stuff done is a good thing in my opinion. I've already been showing people spray main colour, all over wash, pick out a couple colours, wash those, base, varnish as a way to get things done enough and I think these will only help the process.

The white and yellow look particularly interesting.

I have a bunch of epic type space marines I was going to paint as word bearers so I think I might grab the flesh tearer colour and see how they work on super small scale stuff.

Oh wow, hadn't thought of that. I bet these will work a treat on Epic stuff

 Zubbiefish wrote:
I think I saw white in there... how would that work?
My current SM dudes are mostly white. I'm not a particularly accomplished painter, but I've come up with a way to do the white that doesn't make me want to scream.
I'm wondering if I can get a similar effect with a little less effort.
To be clear, my guys are NOT winning any awards, they're just barely above the minimum.

Presumably something like ulthuan grey effect. You don't really paint white with pure white but as offwhite with pure white as highlights. This is pretty much quaranteed to be off-white.

Same reason black requires dark grey for good effect.


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 pancakeonions wrote:
I will definitely be picking up a few pots and trying them out. It's a neat idea for those 'grunts' when you have 20 of them to paint...

20? Nice elite army.

For horde think 100 as minimum Like orks where I paint boyz in batches of 90...Too bad this is pretty much 100% quaranteed to not give similar effect so I can't use this for orks for consistency(thank god ork infantry is largely done by now) but were I to start horde army(tyranids being prime candinate...) would at least try. No more "baaah 90 models painted. Where's the next 90" feeling


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 Hendarion wrote:
If you ask me, these paints are nothing new. That technique is called dipping and so far was only used with brown shades over base-coated minis. GW took it a step further and now uses coloured dips directly on primed minis. Great if you want to push out an army in a single afternoon or two. But it won't ever win a painting competition and it's not meant to either.

You are right that it's not new technique but technique is actually ink painting. Dipping is paint base colours, then...well dip them on shading. This is just painting normally with transparent(ish) paint. Not dipping at all. You don't dip whole model after painting into anything.