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Ok so time to start saving resin and having less fails


1) Try the Ameralabs Town test print for calibration https://atlas3dss.com/learn?v=b0c4bc877c29

Basically flat test prints have an issue in that the exposure for the burn/bottom layers is longer and impacts the results those flat tests give. They can get you "close" to what you need, but you need a more upright test to actually test for proper resin performance

Just open, slice and print the test print. Wash and let it dry (without UV light landing on it) and then take photos of all 4 sides and the top BEFORE curing so that the results can be seen during printing not after curing for the test print.
Nitrile Gloves on when handling cause its risky part-cured resin at that stage. Once you've got the photos you can go ahead and cure it.

Share along with a screenshot of your settings


2) The link I posted above has some guides on supporting as well, but in general you don't want to support flat surfaces like you've got there - 35 degrees or so is a good rule of thumb for angles. Or you can use an Angle Calculator
https://www.rc87.blog/angle-calculator/

NOTE some higher resolution screens like the 16K ones have two resolution values, one for x and one for y so keep that in mind if you're going for perfection

3) I notice you're printing a jar/container - keep in mind standard resin is not food/skin save even when cured. A layer of paint and varnish can reduce the risk considerably and for things like model toys its safe enough to handle cured for limited times.
But its not for storing food/liquids. Though you could use a cup-sheath in theory (container sheaths around a regular cup).


There are food-safe/skinsafe resins but they tend to be specialist and cost more. They can also require different working and curing process - eg Atlas3DSS Hercules resin requires thermal curing to achieve its inert safe state. Interestingly its also MORE toxic in its liquid form than standard resins.

If you want to make simple food-safe objects I'd recommend using FDM over liquid resin.

It’s described as a jar, but is more a storage pot.

Most of the way through cleaning it, as there was a lot of powdery white residue from its IPA bath and curing. Scrubbed it in warm soapy water last night which did the majority. Still need a toothpick or similar to winkle out the remainder, then a final scrub.

From there, get it painted, before finishing off with a felt lining for the interior.

Powdery white is basically where your cleaning process failed to get all the resin off the model before curing.

Better cleaning should resolve this.

Remember cleaning

1) Is based on agitation not duration. Agitated IPA will clean faster and better. Just leaving it to sit in IPA won't really do much

2) Doesn't want to be too long. Longer durations can result in damage to the resin itself. 5-10mins is the most I'd be cleaning for. You are getting the resin off not giving it a long soak

3) Wants to end with a full dry out. A model wet with IPA when cured has a much greater chance of warping. Fully dry has a much reduced chance.

Other considerations for after washing but before curing:
Get some compressed canned air, or use a compressor if you do airbrushing to lightly blast the surfaces, nooks/crannies free of stubborn resin and IPA wetness. But over the rinse container, so you aren't just spraying uncured resin particles everywhere.
I've also used old/cheap paintbrushes to softly dab at recesses to wick away moisture.
Not recommended using a toothbrush, at least for miniatures where you care about final surface, as it can damage uncured print details, but chunky things like terrain or bases that are going to get thicker primer and paint, less an issue.

Wash/Cure station has a whirlpool base. But I’ve been using it for longer since that first Big Print with no white goo.

And on the white goo? The toothbrush scrub came post-cure as well.

I did forget to get toothpicks though. I reckon wooden ones will be just the ticket to get into nook and crannies and remove the worst of it. And subsequent toothbrush scrubbing will sort the rest.

Friend came over and helped me better understand my new toy. Subsequent print went really well.

Did a Servo-arm backpack so I can convert a Master of the Forge for my Dark Angels. Might be Leg-ends, but he’ll let me field some Castellax.

Also taught the lesson of Print/Wash/Remove Supports/Cure. Which worked out really nicely here.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Also? Question Time.

How often do you replace your FEP? I am of course careful with mine, and only use the soft edged plastic scraper. So I’m not causing needless damage. But I understand they are a consumable and so presumably must have a lifespan?

I’ve two more on the way so I’m not caught trousers down. But I don’t want to be replacing it for the sake of replacing it, Y’know.

I’ve had mine for over three years now and never had to replace the FEP, and it doesn’t seem to be causing any issues.

I haven’t done it yet, but I saw a suggestion the other day to swap out the stock plastic scraper with a silicone spatula, as it’s even softer on the FEP (and you should only be using it for stirring/removing liquid resin, so doesn’t need rigidity)