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I have a slight problem when I take pictures I think I'm flashing/lighting away all the fine detail work. I've been told a "light box" might help but I have no idea what that is or even what it does. (not even sure if I have the right name for it.)

Any links on making one of these "boxes" would be most helpful.

Please and thanks.

Turn off the flash and use a well lit environment, daylight works great. Or, alternativly, put a piece of paper (or several layers for increased effect) in front of the bulb to diffuse the flash, softening its effects.

*agree with above poster*

Have you tried taking pictures of your models in various environments and lighting sets? Try this:

Your kitchen/wargaming room with the light on.

1. Put the model on the table, take a picture.

2. Put the model on the table, turn the light off, take a picture.

3. Model on the table, white computer paper underneath, light off.

4. Model on the table, white computer paper underneath, light on.

5. These are presuming that you have blinds and windows - try these shots with your blinds both open and shut.

6. Put a black shirt / felt underneath your model, repeat pictures.

The worst is taking a picture of a model on a surface with a gloss finish. ><

Compare all the pictures and see which one you like the most.

flash is only appropriate for taking snapshots of drunk people at parties. That cameras come with a flash by default has encouraged a lot of bad photography over the years.

As such, as mentioned above - the answer is simple. If you find that your pictures come out too dark without flash, add more light. This means going outside (especially on a cloudy day, as there is actually still a lot of light, but no awful shadows), or putting a bunch of lamps near the model.

There is a right place and time for a flash, but they are never on compact cameras.

A dedicated off-camera flash can be quite satisfactory and won't result in hiroshima-level whiteout. I have two off-camera flashguns.

One mounts on my hotshoe (but can also go onto a tripod) and the other mounts on the end of the lens (ringflash). Both have variable power output and timings.
The ringflash is DESIGNED for close-up work (Gn8 for those who know the meanings). They used to show them being used on the various CSI shows.
The other is a bounce/tilt head flash unit with a gn of 45 that can be dialled from 1/64 power all the way up to full in steps).

Lightboxes use top/side sheets of translucent paper/fabric (silkscreen is good) and multiple light sources.

White backgrounds will often confuse the camera's metering and cause it to underexpose the subject (as it is metering for the white). Graduated backgrounds often work better (the blue-white grad is a common one).

Well I had to work all day today. So tomorrow if I can find the time before work I'll try a couple different methods and see what works thanks for all the advice.
I'll post a couple pics see which y'all think works and what I think works.