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Ork Big Trakk with Supa Kannon - Weathering Tutorial - 09:07:10 Update - FINISHED  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
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Made in sa
Bonkers Buggy Driver with Rockets





Gods Country - ENGLAND

Well, here's 2 out of 3. This is the Forgeworld Big Trakk with Supa Kannon. Its taken about 6 days of free time to assemble to this stage. All parts have been soaked in hot water with washing up liquid overnight. Then scrubbed with a kitchen degreasing agent, and then soaked again in clean water again, then air dried.

I've added some extra Grot Crew, including Forgeworlds 'Nitnuckle' Grot model that comes with the BUzzGob model. I thought a picture of a Kannon and dotted line drawing to a target would look good on his sketch pad. I've converted the driver to add some variety (3 drivers the same would be boring) and I've added some pistons on the front to hold up the shot up Ultramarine. I've put an Evil Sunz medallion on a chain around its neck. The muzzle flash and projectile is from Armorcasts Cinematic effect range.

I'll do a step by step weathering guide on this one.
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This message was edited 10 times. Last update was at 2010/11/15 14:04:23


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Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut






Omadon's Realm

Really like the work so far other than the muzzle flash thing. The shell it's firing is a fair bit bigger than the barrel of the gun.



 
   
Made in eg
Esteemed Veteran Space Marine




Hanging out on the Great Plains

Interesting concept. I agree muzzle flash just isn't working.

More DAKKA - the only true answer to any question.

Battlegroup 127 (The Venators) - Power Level 344  
   
Made in ca
Mounted Kroot Tracker





Ontario, Canada

It's an Ork weapon, I'm pretty sure they can fit anything they like in their gun barrels. Even an elephant.

Night Watch SM
Kroot Mercenaries W 2 - D 3 - L 1
Manchu wrote: This is simply a self-fulfilling prophecy. Everyone says, "it won't change so why should I bother to try?" and then it doesn't change so people feel validated in their bad behavior.

Nightwatch's Kroot Blog

DQ:90-S++G++M-B++I+Pw40k08#+D+A--/cWD-R+T(S)DM+
 
   
Made in au
Fleshound of Khorne





Canberra

I rate it.

I think the fact that you dont see much out there like it adds to its charm, Its very dynamic, and thats what good modelling is all about.

(i think you should write 'The elephant' on the shell)

I think half the story of this vehicle though will be in how its painted, as in the grey the marine on the grill looks a bit chaos'y.

But once you paint it up, scribble some ork-graffiti over it, i think it would look awesome!

2 thumbs up



= 2000+ 3W-0L-1D
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======Begin Dakka Code======
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Why dont i ever fail psychic tests?
'My commisar's gun go pop!' 
   
Made in ca
[DCM]
Acolyte of Goodwin






Sunny SoCal

Forgeworld is a little jealous right now methinks

   
Made in sa
Bonkers Buggy Driver with Rockets





Gods Country - ENGLAND

First stage of my weathering starts here, on the undercoat. Before the Trukk is undercoated, I've given it a coat of clear varnish and I've let this set in a warm environment for a few days. Its then been sprayed Chaos Black and then painted Boltgun Metal. Next I've given it a wash with a 50/50 mix of Badab Black wash and Tamiya X-20 Thinners. You can probably mix the Badab with water, but the X-20 helps it dry quicker.
[Thumb - DSC08813.JPG]


A bit of everything really....... And where's the icons for DUST Tactics, Firestorm Armada, Super Dungeon Explore, Sedition Wars, Relic Knights, Epic Armageddon???? 
   
Made in sa
Bonkers Buggy Driver with Rockets





Gods Country - ENGLAND

THe next step is to mask some areas where paint may have rubbed off the metal work. I do this with liquid masking tape. Its like a thick solution, its available from any good model shop, its inexpensive. It like a gell consistancy. I apply it with a sponge where I think I want paint to rub off, like the skirts of the tank, or areas where crew may be walking. The sponge gives it a random application. The thicker the application, the better. Its the blue coloured stuff on the model.
[Thumb - DSC08815.JPG]


A bit of everything really....... And where's the icons for DUST Tactics, Firestorm Armada, Super Dungeon Explore, Sedition Wars, Relic Knights, Epic Armageddon???? 
   
Made in sa
Bonkers Buggy Driver with Rockets





Gods Country - ENGLAND

I've now base coated the model. Painted it Foundation Red, then a 25/75 mix of foundation / blood reds. I've painted the yeallow areas and the black and white checks. I've not painted any detail stuff on the model. Once this has fully dried and you think its dry, leave it to dry some more!!!!!!

Taking a blunt knife (I use the sculpting tool), gently rub the blade over the areas where the masking solution was applied. This will rub the masking solution and the paint ontop of it off, leaving the boltgun / washed undercoat visable. This now gives the appearance of old worn paint which has flaked off in places. I paint the red making sure I leave areas around the edges where paint would scratch off free from red paint.

This pic shows an area where I've rubbed off the liquid mask. Where you see lumps in the paint is where I've not rubbed off the mask yet. I've only finished the blood red mix on a small section. Next pic will be the completed basecoat.
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This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/06/30 20:43:45


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Made in us
Death-Dealing Ultramarine Devastator




Triad, NC

looks very nice. look forward to seeing it finished.

1225 70% painted
40% painted 
   
Made in sa
Bonkers Buggy Driver with Rockets





Gods Country - ENGLAND

Righto then, at this stage I've done the main painting of the tank, the details, and highlighted and shaded what I'm going to shade. I've scrapped off the liquid mask. I painted the main red colour leaving areas around the edges boltgun metal so I can highlight the scratches etc. Fo rthe metal, all I have done is either drybrush with Chainmail, or hand highlight with Chainmail.
[Thumb - DSC08819.JPG]


A bit of everything really....... And where's the icons for DUST Tactics, Firestorm Armada, Super Dungeon Explore, Sedition Wars, Relic Knights, Epic Armageddon???? 
   
Made in sa
Bonkers Buggy Driver with Rockets





Gods Country - ENGLAND

The next stage is to start highlighting the scratches and chips. For this stage I simply use Mythril Silver along all the scratched edges. I try to do small flicks with a fine detail brush. Its ok to pull the Mythril into the main coloured area, infact its better if you do it this way. I also add small amounts of Mythril into the paint chips, but not ito all of them to give the appearance of some new chips and old chips.
[Thumb - DSC08823.JPG]


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Made in us
Black Templar Recruit Undergoing Surgeries





Layton Utah

That looks amazing....

2500 point cadian
1300 black templar  
   
Made in sa
Bonkers Buggy Driver with Rockets





Gods Country - ENGLAND

Righto then, next weathering step............

Who's seen the man in the van drive past and someone's written "Wish my Wife was as Dirty as this Van" or "Clean Me!"? Yep, you've all seen it and you've all probably written on a car covered in grime. That's what I'm doing here, and in the modelling world, its called applying a filter.

Basically, its a wash over the entire vehicle to represent that film of dirt and grime that accumalates over time. For the wash I use Vallejo Umber Shade, mixed approximately 1 third to 2 thrids Tamiya X-20 Thinners. You could just as easily use GW washes mixed with water, its purely just a preference. As my Orks are in a dusty dessert themed bases, I've used the Umber colour as its brown in nature, I could have used the GW Develn Mud Wash. If this was an Urban theme, I'd have used a black wash with the same ratio mix. I've not bothered washing the tracks, as they'll be covered in the pigments later.

If you compare the close up photo, with the photo above, you'll notice the difference. Weathering is all about adding a layer of realism into the models. The tank is now looking scratched, chipped, and dirty.
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This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/07/01 22:29:26


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Made in us
Waaagh! Warbiker






My big trakk just arrived, looking at your model for ideas. I like the custom work on the front. The added grots are also a great idea.

Personally, I would leave the armor cast shell off (its a bit much smoke and what not for me, playig the model on the field and even transport could be a pain, and the shell is over-sized for the muzzle... so, looks out of proportion to my eye), but to each his own.

I'm not sure on the marine himself, if painted and tarnished well, it will look the part... but I would think the armor would get pretty damaged and mangled after a short while... missing gauntlet or grieve, no helmet, etc... so I'll hold off judgement on that till I see it painted and finished.

I love the red work you've done. I was looking for ideas on what to be red and what to be metallic on this model because so much is boltgun with washes. Your choice of color distribution works quite nice, so props on your decision. I may even borrow a bit of your scheme.

I was really hoping to see that supa kannon painted up when I found this thread. I still need to finish painting my custom supa kannons, so looking for some painting ideas on color distribution... its a bit much to leave it all metallic... shield seems like an obvious choice, some of the bands and other bits like the skull and jaw are no brainers as well...

I'll be keeping an eye on this thread. Thanks for taking the time to post pics. Keep up the good work!

Cheers,

Tac


6K, 7K, 5K, 8K, 7K 
   
Made in ca
Elite Tyranid Warrior



Ontario

But I want to see more. Where is the more?
   
Made in sa
Bonkers Buggy Driver with Rockets





Gods Country - ENGLAND

Here is the Kannon basecoated. You can see the areas around the edges which I will highlight to be scratched. You can also see the blue masking stuff. On the Barrell you can see some lumps in the paint, underneath which is the some of the liquid mask which will be scraped off later.
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A bit of everything really....... And where's the icons for DUST Tactics, Firestorm Armada, Super Dungeon Explore, Sedition Wars, Relic Knights, Epic Armageddon???? 
   
Made in sa
Bonkers Buggy Driver with Rockets





Gods Country - ENGLAND

Here is the Kannon completed to the same level as the rest of the Trakk. All the mask has been removed, its been highlighted, and then given a wash to dirty it up (although the photo's don't show this up too well). The shield is not yet glued to the model, I'm not 100% sure its staying on the model.
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A bit of everything really....... And where's the icons for DUST Tactics, Firestorm Armada, Super Dungeon Explore, Sedition Wars, Relic Knights, Epic Armageddon???? 
   
Made in sa
Bonkers Buggy Driver with Rockets





Gods Country - ENGLAND

Here I'm going to add some discolouration to the muzzle of the Kannon, its the same technique as I use on the heat sheilding of the exhausts. If you look at some shinney metal that's been heated up, it discolours to blues, oranges and purples. So to do this, the first thing I'll do it drybrush the muzzle Mythril Silver. I'll then use the Tamiya Weathering Master Set D, which has the Burnt Blue and Burnt Orange colours.
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A bit of everything really....... And where's the icons for DUST Tactics, Firestorm Armada, Super Dungeon Explore, Sedition Wars, Relic Knights, Epic Armageddon???? 
   
Made in sa
Bonkers Buggy Driver with Rockets





Gods Country - ENGLAND

The texture of these is a bit like your Wife's / Girlfriends / Mothers / Sisters / Boyfriends (Each to their own) Eye Shadow Make-up, a compressed powder, but slighty wet and sticky. To use it, you need to to slightly wet your brush (a slight lick will do fine) and brush it over the colour, then onto the area you want to apply it to.

Here I've added the Burnt Blue.
[Thumb - DSC08837.JPG]


A bit of everything really....... And where's the icons for DUST Tactics, Firestorm Armada, Super Dungeon Explore, Sedition Wars, Relic Knights, Epic Armageddon???? 
   
Made in sa
Bonkers Buggy Driver with Rockets





Gods Country - ENGLAND

Here I've added in the Burnt Orange. This stuff is easy to use and blends really easy with little or no effort. The muzzle won't stay this colour, as it will be further weathered when I add the 'soot' which would come out the end of the Kannon everytime its fired. But this does give you an idea of the effect you can get, really easily with the right stuff.

Once I've left it overnight to dry fully, I'll use my thumb to rub the colout a bit, to bring out the Silver more underneath, and blend it more.
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Made in us
Moustache-twirling Princeps





WA

Looks great!

   
Made in sa
Bonkers Buggy Driver with Rockets





Gods Country - ENGLAND

Time to rust up the tracks and here's my weapons of choice. MIG weathering powders, P024 Light Rust, P025 Standard Rust, P030 Old Rust, Tamiya X-20A Thinners, and MIG Pigment Fixer. I know Forgeworld have started their own line of powders, but I've not used them so I can't comment on how MIG's powders compare with Forgeworlds. All I can tell you is that MIG Productions brought the powders to the modelling market, all other powders are copies of MIG's.

The Powders are exactly that, powder. Before you use them, cover up your work area with some paper or something, because this stuff gets everywhere, TRUST ME! I use a VERY small amount of thinners on my brush, before dipping it into the powder, and applying it to the model. I build it up in consecutive layers and finish by sealing the powder with the Pigment Fixer. If the powder is not sealed, then it will just keep rubbing off everytime you touch the model.

There are different ways of using the powders, for the rust effect, this is one way I'll demonstrate their use.
[Thumb - DSC08847.JPG]


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Made in sa
Bonkers Buggy Driver with Rockets





Gods Country - ENGLAND

I'm starting with the Old Rust colour, the darker colour. Using the Thinners, I dip it into the powder and this colour is practically painted on. I'm not going to do a full on rust like the other Trakk, this one will be less rusty.

This will be a step by step. Once I've finished with the powders, I'll seal them
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[Thumb - DSC08849.JPG]


A bit of everything really....... And where's the icons for DUST Tactics, Firestorm Armada, Super Dungeon Explore, Sedition Wars, Relic Knights, Epic Armageddon???? 
   
Made in sa
Bonkers Buggy Driver with Rockets





Gods Country - ENGLAND

Next up, the Standard Rust. There is no need to wait for the previous colour to fully dry. As soon as the thinners hits it, it will be wet again. Using thinnners helps blends the colours in. Also, you will notice that using the powders, does not give you a smooth finish, its gives a rough one, which is what reality is. Rust is not smooth, its rough. Powders help replicate this.
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A bit of everything really....... And where's the icons for DUST Tactics, Firestorm Armada, Super Dungeon Explore, Sedition Wars, Relic Knights, Epic Armageddon???? 
   
Made in sa
Bonkers Buggy Driver with Rockets





Gods Country - ENGLAND

Lastly, the light rust powder.
[Thumb - DSC08851.JPG]


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Made in us
Storm Trooper with Maglight





bellingham

Wow fantastic weathering and modeling for that matter.

1950 3385 pt 1300  
   
Made in gb
Storm Trooper with Maglight






UK - Down South - GB

nice tutorial and nice paint job.
   
Made in sa
Bonkers Buggy Driver with Rockets





Gods Country - ENGLAND

And here's one track section completed, sort of. I've deliberately left some area's of the tracks without rust, but I will dirty these areas up later and blend them into the rusty sections. Once the rust is done, the sandy desert will be done as well on the tracks.

I've not yet applied the Pigment Fixer, I'll do that once I've blended everything in. And you can see how messy the work surface has become, you've been warned.
[Thumb - DSC08855.JPG]


A bit of everything really....... And where's the icons for DUST Tactics, Firestorm Armada, Super Dungeon Explore, Sedition Wars, Relic Knights, Epic Armageddon???? 
   
Made in sa
Bonkers Buggy Driver with Rockets





Gods Country - ENGLAND

Here is the finished track section. I added a small amount of the dark powder to the Pigment Fixer solution and washed this all over the track. I apply this generously over the model and it takes about an hour and half to dry. The powder is now sealed onto the model. There will be more powder going onto the model, when I do the sand and dust effects. Next task will be to reapeat the rust effects on the other track and the other areas of the model I want there to be rust. Probably be a few more days before I do this.
[Thumb - DSC08856.JPG]


A bit of everything really....... And where's the icons for DUST Tactics, Firestorm Armada, Super Dungeon Explore, Sedition Wars, Relic Knights, Epic Armageddon???? 
   
 
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