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Well as the title says my first ever attempt at using green stuff, wanted to make a sm a bit more different so hacked his legs off and repositioned them to look like he is leaning on an object while throwing a grenade, thinking of using an orc for the object for him to lean on but most is still in the working but so far here is what i have done, is a bit bad looking but i'm sure i can neaten it up some more while i'm tinkering with it

Also would like to add i have not smoothed some of it out yet these are just the first parts i have done so far







will be doing some more work on his left leg once the first gs has set so i don't move his leg out of position and working some gs on his right arm to cove some gaps i made

will keep posting updates as and when i can, C&C welcome
hope it turns out well but guess only time will tell

Kind of lumpy in places but its much better than my first attempt also move shoulder pack back a bit it might look better but good attempt.

Being recently new to GS myself (about 2 weeks and 4 models or so) I can attest to the learning curve, years of sculpting experience help but GS is a unique monster to get right.

One tip, use vaseline as a lubricant for your tools, it's MUCH better than water. Water on its own is actually a pretty gakky lubricant all around. Also, for a smooth result use a smooth flat tool, not something like a needle or toothpick (save those for details). GW's tool is a bit expensive but it's good. If you plan on doing more models, look into something like the second one or the next to last one here for a cheap alternative.

http://www.dickblick.com/products/duron-plastic-sculpting-tool-set/

The top of the 3rd from the right here is similar to the tool I use for smooth areas - http://cgi.ebay.com/7-WAX-CARVING-CARVERS-POLYMER-CLAY-SCULPTING-TOOLS-/230474086628?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35a95378e4

Also, to cut down on curing time, consider building a heat box. Use a cardboard box lined with tin foil (or a coffee can) and a desk lamp with an old school light bulb, not the curly "green" ones, to apply some heat to the model. If you cut a hole in the box and position the light an inch or so above the hole the heat is perfect to cure the GS in a fraction of the time, but not melt the plastic model. Depending on the size of the chunk of GS, 20-45 minutes in the box will cure it enough that you won't be squishing or tool-marking it up. Not having to wait 10 hours between sessions helps an impatient person like me a LOT.

You should probably find some sandpaper just to sand that down into something smoother.

Echoing the above - fine grade (400 to 1000) wet and dry sandpaper would be good for this, after you file it into roughly the shape you want (otherwise it will take forever to get to the right shape and you'll use a lot of sandpaper too!).


Stuart

Looking good
.

On your next try, place the gs where you want is, get the rough shape then leave the gs for 20-30 min under a desklamp so it stiffens.
Then you can smooth the gs with less hassle