Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

I have just finished to install a LED in Killa Kan. Equipped with the dedicated electrical circuit, LED blinks smoothly. I use a programmable IC for PWM control of LED. It was rather complex work and 5 nights were necessary to build this. Does anyone know a similar circuit that is available commercially?

Now you just need to wire up the saw so it spins... and the arms and legs so it moves around

Looks good

Just get it to play that music too, then you'd be all set. Oh and I second spinning buzzsaws!

Looks awsome.
Do you use it in games or as a display model?

A link for 9-12 volt DC LEDs, ready to use, no board needed.

http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/dcflasher.html

That is a very nice riff going in that vid. Definitely need to install a speaker into it's front grill and get it playing that.

Also the LED work is nice. Wish I had the patience/drive to do it.

Oh, I just start thinking to disassembly my cellular phone to take micro motor and iPod for the player device.

I will use this model for actual game playing. I hope the light will disturb enemy's consideration of the tactics.

Thanks for the self-blinking LED's information. I will try that when I have an idea to embed 9V battery to a model.... excellent for Rhino, I think.

Man that is cool! I was gonna put an LED in an IG sentinal's searchlight but this isjust summin else

Check out my gallery. I put LEDS in a monolith and a Sisters of Battle Immolator. I love putting LEDS in models. Im in the middle of working on high output circuits to maximize lighting with less power. Also I found a good place to get tons of leds and resistors is on ebay. I got 300 leds, 100 white, 100 off white, and 100 green on ebay for about 20 bucks. And that included 300 various resistors.

To OP very nice job. I may have to borrow this when i finally get to building my ork army. Love the blinking LED.

@rokitchikin, That's great jobs. I love especially the monolith with very fantastic looking. I found out monolith is very suitable subject for lighting up because it contains several clear parts and extensive space inside it, attracting me.
For Killa Kan, with very limited space, I had to use small stuffs.

This is a resister on the board, 20ohm is good for this circuit. Total of consumption current including that of LED and IC, is lower than 2mA and I expect battery can last over 24hr.

BrutalBrandon wrote:A link for 9-12 volt DC LEDs, ready to use, no board needed.

http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/dcflasher.html

That's a nice find, it would be nice to have LEDs with built in resistors when time and space are an issue. Too bad they flash, not pulse slowly like in the OP's model. I ran into the same issue when lighting the chaos battle board for my client, which was that there didn't seem to be an easy or cost effective way of making a pulsing light like that.

Oh kinda forgot to mention it because i got distracted by the LED but great paint job as well. Solid black is a hard color to pull of without proper highlights and embelishments and you did it superbly.
Also, I added the lights to that monolith about 2 and a half years ago when i was stationed in Hawaii. Its just running on AA batteries right now and they have shown no signs of dying yet. And thats after putting it in multiple contests (ive won lots of lootz) with it running for multiple hours for judging. Im actually waiting for the batteries to die so i have an excuse to update the system i have in there to a better one ive designed. The leds i used are 3mm 3 volt super brights. I have some smaller 1 mm ones as well but as i am moving to alaska right now i havnt had a chance to use them yet.

Lol awesome.

@Terraformer, your works are incredible. I was very very impressed.
For slow blinking, I just used one IC, circuit diagram as below. This microcontroller is not so expensive (2 or 3 USD), but programming is necessary.

If you have a plan to do in near future, this will be an additional option.

That's awesome, though I think a red light would have been more Orky. At least to me.

Nish wrote:@Terraformer, your works are incredible. I was very very impressed.
For slow blinking, I just used one IC, circuit diagram as below. This microcontroller is not so expensive (2 or 3 USD), but programming is necessary.
If you have a plan to do in near future, this will be an additional option.

Thank you so much, most of my larger-scale future work is going to have some kind of electronic feature or two because LEDs are just so much fun once you solve the arcane riddle of the resistor. Might I ask you what brand microcontroller you use? I've seen sets that include a PC interface for around $100.00+ and the microcontroller in the 20 - 30 USD range. I never used this kind of hardware before so perhaps my search terms need adjusting.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Also, I have to agree that the paint job/weathering is top notch, I really like to see a "fancy" feature added onto piece to enhance an already high quality level of craftsmanship, rather than just be the single gimmick that makes a piece unique. Bravo.

Terraformer, thank you for your comment.

The IC I used is "PIC12F683" with LED controlling program written by myself. PIC is "Programmable Interface Controller", product of Microchip Technology(www.microchip.com).
PIC itself doesn't work without an appropriate program. If you get the programming device for PIC ; e.g. PICkit2(ca$50); and learn how to write a program, you can prepare the controller IC. I can send my program if you want.
Or, shall I provide such PICs programmed?

Thank you Nish, I will look into it. I think I'll give it a go by myself for now, because I have a lot of ideas for different effects and applications for pulsing lights and feel I should learn how to write te programs so I can be the strongest crafter I can be

But if you don't mind, I may like to send a question or two your way if I get stumped.

That's awesome.

@Terraformer
Sounds good! Do not hegitate to ask me if you have any questions. I can help you with programming and circuit design.

hmm subscribed!

Wow, and I thought my Rhino's with working headlights and searchlights where good. Your Killer Kan looks incredible. I'lll have to think about trying some blinking LED's in the next one I do.

Despite lower consumption of electric power less than 2mA @ 3V, you can see how bright the LED is.

Awesome work on the kan lighting. While I love the idea of jamming LEDs into models, it usually acts as a gimmick. In this case, however, it really does enhance the look of the model.

For those who are interested in getting a gradual pulsing effect but don't want to figure out how to do it themselves, you could always shell out the extra cash for a purpose-built unit like this one (provided your wallet is significantly bigger than your ambition): http://www.micromark.com/ELECTRONIC-BEACON-FLASHER,7888.html.

If you change it to a red LED you know what you'd have? A CYLON KILLA KAN! It's pretty awesome dude.

Really nice job, but I think it lights up for too long, although that may just be me.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Really nice job, but I think it lights up for too long, although that may just be me.

Very nice work.

Nice work here!

I love this. I have a l.e.d. deal I took out of a broke toy of my youngster and I am thinking of using it in this way.

Very nicely done. How do you turn it on and off?

Excellent work!