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Ok people, this is the.. thing. I wanna use some green stuff for multiple stuff, but I never have had of gone and used it before! Can someone explain to me how it works, does it set, etc

Thanks!!!

Green Stuff is a two part epoxy that comes in strips of blue and yellow components. They will be pretty hard when you start working with them, but after warming in your hands a bit tend to soften so that you can mix them to the final green color.

Green stuff is pretty sticky, so it can be applied directly to your models without the use of glue, and then shaped as desired. It doesn't absorb water or oil, so you can use a bit of either on your modeling tools to prevent them from sticking while you work it.

It makes a medium hardness solid once mixed and cooled a bit, which allows it to retain shape, hold detail, etc. It is highly ductile, so you can stretch it considerably, roll it into lengths, or flaten into sheets, especially if still warm. It is soft enough, especially when warm, that you want to be careful not to press with your fingers or you will leave fingerprints.

The cure time ranges from one to several days depending on thickness and environment. It hardens into a hardness similar to, although a bit less than, GW plastics.

I'm certainly no expert in working with GS, however, mostly using it for gap filling or simple additions. I'd like to be better with it, but I'd also like to be a better painter, which is where I'm focusing my efforts currently.

Good luck!

Heffling summed it up pretty well i believe, so ill add in a few more bits:


Fingerprints - They are a real pain to start with as the slightest one stands out from miles away.
You can either use a tool to smooth them out again, or you can wear very thin latex gloves when working with it. (i do this and have no problems)

Water - Its your new best friend.
Allways keep your fingers slightly wet so it stops it from sticking to them (which causes alot more problems than finger prints)
Also, make sure any toold you use are coated in water for the same result.

Tools - You can buy a sculpting set, but if your just trying your hand at it, i wouldnt bother just yet, i'd see how you get on with it.
To strt with, i'd simply use a small sharp blade (take one out of a hobby knife or the likes. I use a stanley blade)
This will help to no end with getting defined edges, or scratching detail into it.
A paintbrush will also help, but using the blunt end of it.
The rounded tip when used at a slight angle is good enough for smoothing out edges, but if you have something like a paint shaper, it works alot better.

Practice - Depending on what you plan on doing with it, your best bet is to grab an old 50mm - 60mm base.
simply apply a thin coat of GS to it (about 2mm - 3mm) and use that as a canvas to get used to it.
Just play about with ideas and see how it goes before using it on a model.

Google is your friend - You will at some point need advice on creating different things with it, in which case, a quick google search (or searching dakka) will provide you with great info on this.



I think thats about it, and good luck

i use the games workshop double ended tool a scalpel and some tweezers. like someone said its pretty sticky so i ( sounds gross) use oil from my greasy chin or nose to rub on the tool to stop getting so stuck. works for me lol

I find vaseline or petroleum jelly to be better than water for lubricating tools (especially metal ones) for sculpting with GS. It lasts longer, and is less likely to get *under* the piece of GS you're trying to work with, which is a TOTAL pain.

In terms of working with it, it's different than regular sculpting because it doesn't work well if you try to do everything all at once, you have to work in layers. Sculpt a base, let it cure, come back for some details, let it cure, etc. This was really frustrating to me coming from polymer clays, so I found a heatbox to be invaluable in cutting down on fits of impatience. It could be as easy as a coffee can and a clamp lamp, but I made mine from a small cardboard box lined with tin foil. Basically anything that you can put a light on or into (I cut a hole in my box) that will hold heat but not burn or heat so much that it'll melt or deform your plastic figures. Since heat speeds GS and other similar epoxy curing times you can fully cure a section of GS in 20-30 minutes rather than 12-18 hours.

Hope this helps!


Here's a pretty awesome list of sculpting tutorials over at heresy forums -

http://www.heresy-online.net/forums/showthread.php?t=46996

I get annoyed using water... But it does work, just lots of mis placed blobs that won't stick.

To you guys who use vaseline, do you have to clean it off??? I always figured it would just stay there and make the mini sticky and gross. Can you explain the exact steps you use?

Personally I prefer to use Vaseline. I've never had any problems with it, and it really makes things smoother. One time i forgot to use some and the green stuff was sticking to my hand and the model, and it was relativity difficult to work with.

Also, always try to smooth out the putty. If you don't, then you'll end up with fingerprints left on it.

Do you need to clean the vaseline off afterwards though???