Switch Theme:

Blood Raven Battle Company  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





UK

Howdy doody, I've just returned to mini' painting after a 10 or so year break and decided to jump back in with both feet and tackle building an entire Blood Raven company.

Does anyone have any advice on paint schemes, (I've read about loads of different styles from white undercoat with bloodred and wash finishes to black undercoat and thousands of layers of red gore,) etc or even which company to choose?
   
Made in us
Chalice-Wielding Sanguinary High Priest





Arlington TX, but want to be back in Seattle WA

My only advice would be this: Go with black primer. It is going to yield a smoother texture and result. Something that wasnt around 10 yrs ago and is available now; foundation paints. these are high concentrated pigmented paints intended to ensure your light colors actually turn out light without hundreds of layers. Look into the foundation paint mechrite red....this will definately improve your frustration level when painting and will help you avoid painting layer after layer.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
welcome back to the hobby!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/10/11 17:10:59


4250 points of Blood Angels goodness, sweet and silky W12-L6-D4
1000 points of Teil-Shan (my own scheme) Eldar Craftworld in progress
800 points of unassembled Urban themed Imperial Guard
650 points of my do-it-yourself Tempest Guard
675 points of Commoraghs finest!

The Dude - "Jackie Treehorn treats objects like women, man."

Lord Helmet - "I bet she gives great helmet."

 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





UK

Element206 wrote:My only advice would be this: Go with black primer. It is going to yield a smoother texture and result. Something that wasnt around 10 yrs ago and is available now; foundation paints. these are high concentrated pigmented paints intended to ensure your light colors actually turn out light without hundreds of layers. Look into the foundation paint mechrite red....this will definately improve your frustration level when painting and will help you avoid painting layer after layer.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
welcome back to the hobby!


Thanks for the advice, I've experimented with the foundation paints on a few mini's but haven't quite got the hang of thinning them down to the magic skimmed-milk formula without the pigment seperating. Guess its all just down to practice, practice, practice.
   
Made in us
Last Remaining Whole C'Tan






Pleasant Valley, Iowa

Why not just basecoat in red? Seems like it would be the same effect but a lot less time.

 lord_blackfang wrote:
Respect to the guy who subscribed just to post a massive ASCII dong in the chat and immediately get banned.

 Flinty wrote:
The benefit of slate is that its.actually a.rock with rock like properties. The downside is that it's a rock
 
   
Made in ca
Nasty Nob





Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

stigweard wrote:
Element206 wrote:My only advice would be this: Go with black primer. It is going to yield a smoother texture and result. Something that wasnt around 10 yrs ago and is available now; foundation paints. these are high concentrated pigmented paints intended to ensure your light colors actually turn out light without hundreds of layers. Look into the foundation paint mechrite red....this will definately improve your frustration level when painting and will help you avoid painting layer after layer.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
welcome back to the hobby!


Thanks for the advice, I've experimented with the foundation paints on a few mini's but haven't quite got the hang of thinning them down to the magic skimmed-milk formula without the pigment seperating. Guess its all just down to practice, practice, practice.


Well that's your problem! You shouldn't be thinning the foundation paints near that much, it totally defeats their intended purpose!

Sure you can thin them a little bit, but only by a small amount or they lose their only benefit, excellent coverage.


Current Project: Random quaratine models!
Most Recently Completed: Stormcast Nightvault Warband
On the Desk: Looking into 3D Printing!
Instagram Updates: @joyous_oblivion 
   
Made in au
Norn Queen






yeah, foundations intent is 1 normal coat to do your basecoat, instead of 2-3 thinned coats. Don't thin it very much, if at all. Just don't pour it on either.
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





UK

Cheers for the advice, can you tell its been a while since I've painted mini's?

I've found it quite a step learning curve getting back into things as the technology seems to have changed so much in such a short time. I probably should have mentioned that I don't really play the games, I tend to paint more for show and collections so don't mind taking the extra time to apply several coats. Having said that I may regret saying that trying to paint an entire company.


I've always wondered if there's any benefit in using other manufacturers paints or if they're basically the same? Anyone use anything other than the starndard GW range?
   
Made in us
Chalice-Wielding Sanguinary High Priest





Arlington TX, but want to be back in Seattle WA

Thanks for the advice, I've experimented with the foundation paints on a few mini's but haven't quite got the hang of thinning them down to the magic skimmed-milk formula without the pigment seperating. Guess its all just down to practice, practice, practice.

Yeah this is wrong. Id say thin down the first coat with water only going aobut 1 to 1 on the ratio. After that coat, I usually come back with a drybrush coat (no water). I have found this is the best way to give coverage tot he entire model and also preserve the detail well.

4250 points of Blood Angels goodness, sweet and silky W12-L6-D4
1000 points of Teil-Shan (my own scheme) Eldar Craftworld in progress
800 points of unassembled Urban themed Imperial Guard
650 points of my do-it-yourself Tempest Guard
675 points of Commoraghs finest!

The Dude - "Jackie Treehorn treats objects like women, man."

Lord Helmet - "I bet she gives great helmet."

 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





UK

Element206 wrote:
Thanks for the advice, I've experimented with the foundation paints on a few mini's but haven't quite got the hang of thinning them down to the magic skimmed-milk formula without the pigment seperating. Guess its all just down to practice, practice, practice.


Yeah this is wrong. Id say thin down the first coat with water only going aobut 1 to 1 on the ratio. After that coat, I usually come back with a drybrush coat (no water). I have found this is the best way to give coverage tot he entire model and also preserve the detail well.

Like the sound of the drybrush idea to keep the detail, I can see me ending up with a squade of test models before I start the main job

P.S...Love the dreadnaught btw!
   
Made in gb
Adolescent Youth with Potential



England

Hey man this thread is like looking in a mirror, I too have come back to the hobby and have chosen Blood Ravens as my project. I've been panting a black undercoat, then red gore, blood red then darkend with a black wash. For the shoulder pads I base black, then paint bronzed flesh then finally bleached bone. Hope this helps, I'll soon be starting a blog with my WIP I'll be sure to post it when it happens, best of luck brother!
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





UK

CryEffect wrote:Hey man this thread is like looking in a mirror, I too have come back to the hobby and have chosen Blood Ravens as my project. I've been panting a black undercoat, then red gore, blood red then darkend with a black wash. For the shoulder pads I base black, then paint bronzed flesh then finally bleached bone. Hope this helps, I'll soon be starting a blog with my WIP I'll be sure to post it when it happens, best of luck brother!


Scary!..what made you want to start Blood Ravens? Must admit that I got sucked in after reading the Dawn of War books and the heavy numbers of librarians.
   
Made in gb
Pestilent Plague Marine with Blight Grenade






Bristol, UK

stigweard wrote:I've always wondered if there's any benefit in using other manufacturers paints or if they're basically the same? Anyone use anything other than the starndard GW range?


http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/320476.page

Welcome back to the hobby Stig! Vallejo make their own version of the Foundation paints (as well as every other paint) for HALF the money. I'm also a fan of the Coat D'arms range (as you're likely to find out!).

   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





UK

Hi Tek, cheers for the heads up. Do you know of anywhere in the UK that you'd recommend to get hold of some the Vallejo range?
   
Made in gb
Pestilent Plague Marine with Blight Grenade






Bristol, UK

I sure do!

http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/
http://www.legendgames.co.uk/acatalog/Acrylic_Paints.html
http://www.waylandgames.co.uk/
http://www.maelstromgames.co.uk/

My reccomendations are Maelstrom or Wayland. Pros and cons with either.

   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





UK

cheers very much for the links!

I'm quite amazed how much you could save using vallejo...almost wish I'd not just bought a mega paint set from GW

Looking at the bottles I'm guessing there the range that are the 'squirty' kind so there's no need to ruin a brush getting paint onto a pallet?


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Finally managed to get some pics of the mini's from build time round 1 taken. Took this round as an experiment in getting some realistic damage 'scratched' into the pastic rather than just creating the effect at the painting stage. Any and all comments most welcome

http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/images-25322-11366_Wip.html

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/10/14 22:50:32


 
   
Made in us
Adolescent Youth with Potential



Ft.Bragg

Brother,
Like it was ealier in then thread Vallejo is the way to go there paints are excellent that is all I use and its all cheap too lol
Thanks,
Ordo

1/0/0 hell yeah new codex
8/2/3 damn deamons

I am Red/White
Take The Magic Dual Colour Test - Beta today!
<small>Created with Rum and Monkey's Personality Test Generator.</small>

I'm both chaotic and orderly. I value my own principles, and am willing to go to extreme lengths to enforce them, often trampling on the very same principles in the process. At best, I'm heroic and principled; at worst, I'm hypocritical and disorderly.
 
   
Made in au
Norn Queen






With vallejo, what are their versions of bleached bone, devlan mud, lich purple and leviathan purple wash?

I'd love it if I could get large quantities on the cheap. My Tyranid horde goes through them like water.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/10/15 05:29:31


 
   
Made in us
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot





The rarefied atmosphere

don't know if these bits are of any interest?

http://chapterhousestudios.com/webshop/component/virtuemart/?page=shop.browse&category_id=20&vmcchk=1

shoulderpad wise.

The USS Orinoco was a Federation Danube-class runabout that was in service with Starfleet in the late 24th century, attached to Deep Space 9. It was outfitted with a sensor pod.

http://orinoco.imgur.com/ 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





UK

Orinoco wrote:don't know if these bits are of any interest?

http://chapterhousestudios.com/webshop/component/virtuemart/?page=shop.browse&category_id=20&vmcchk=1

shoulderpad wise.


Wow great find! Only trouble is the shipping to the UK would cost more than the pads Time to break out the greenstuff me thinks!
   
Made in us
Imperial Recruit in Training




Georgia, USA

-Loki- wrote:With vallejo, what are their versions of bleached bone, devlan mud, lich purple and leviathan purple wash?

I'd love it if I could get large quantities on the cheap. My Tyranid horde goes through them like water.


If you haven't done a search for a conversion chart but for -your- edification (okay, mine as well ) I found one

http://www.evicerator.com/vallejotogwconversiontable.htm

Granted I haven't tested it to make sure it is true but...

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/10/15 12:32:17




-I am not here...so there! 
   
Made in au
Norn Queen






Paladin109 wrote:
-Loki- wrote:With vallejo, what are their versions of bleached bone, devlan mud, lich purple and leviathan purple wash?

I'd love it if I could get large quantities on the cheap. My Tyranid horde goes through them like water.


If you haven't done a search for a conversion chart but for -your- edification (okay, mine as well ) I found one

http://www.evicerator.com/vallejotogwconversiontable.htm

Granted I haven't tested it to make sure it is true but...


Didn't even know that existed. I might order some and give them a go.
   
Made in gb
Pestilent Plague Marine with Blight Grenade






Bristol, UK

http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

Keep it Dakka people!

   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





UK

Tek wrote:http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

Keep it Dakka people!


Nice one Tek!..I'll throw my hands up and yell I'm a believer! Did some searching over the weekend into the Vallejo colours and can't believe how much money I've wasted over the years with GW paints. Just searching for the right pack to replace some of my empty GW pots
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





UK

Oops, had a small setback with starting a Blood Ravens Company. After reading through as much background info I could find and after re-reading the Dawn Of War books I've costed up the idea of adding in enough librarian models to represent a true Blood Ravens company and found its rather stupidly beyond reach. As I wanted this company to be an ideal codex build I've decided to return to my first love and switch tracks to a Salamanders company. Good job I decided to build all the models needed first then paint rather than paint on the go just in case this kind of problem came around.

Thanks to everyone that posted advice, especially about Vallejo paints, managed to find a great deal on ebay for a game colour set and will never be looking back...hope you'll continue to look in on the new blog I'll be setting up over the next few days.
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: