Casting Minis

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**The Bringer**

I wanted to save some money on miniatures, so I was going to cast some pieces.

What are techniques for casting that are cheap, effective, and can hold detail really well. Cheap as in less than $20, preferably. Also, the pieces I was going to cast were about two to three cm long, and about a cm wide.

**Gavin Thorne**

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/307451.page

and

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/242040.page

Both found on the first page of the Painting and Modelling Tutorials, wow!

**The Bringer**

True, but the one not done by Blackhand didn't really show how well it could hold detail, as it was a rather simple figure.

Also, bubbles would be a huge problem for what I do. And using blackhand's methods you would most likely get bubbles.

I guess I should have said this, but I can't do resin.

**Clthomps**

You are gak out of luck if you only want to spend $20 and get good results...

most likely you will need to spend five times that amount to get half decent casts. (I dropped a little over $100 for my supplies)

**chromedog**

^What he said.

There is no CHEAP way to get GOOD results.

Expect to spend around $100 and practice a lot to get good results. Expect to fluff your first few casts.

Casting is only cheaper in the 'long' run (in excess of 10-15 casts). Before that, it is often cheaper just to buy the originals in quantity.

**Gavin Thorne**

You may want to search for vacuum bell casting techniques if the models you're casting are likely to have bubbles develop, but that's going to run significantly more than $20.00.

I've used the two-part casting method to produce bits using cheap, crappy resin that were up to the standards that I required, but there's the age old maxim:

"Quality, Price, Time. Pick two."

Mistressofminis is a dakkadakka member that may be able to give you insight in what you're looking for. She gave me more than a few pointers after my initial trials.

**The Bringer**

Okay, guess casting isn't the way to go considering the only options.

Have any of you heard of a greenstuff press mold? Would those work?

**Grey Templar**

greenstuff is way too think to be cast in anything other then some very basic shapes. the mold would have to be metal too.

You should also research the legal rammafications of casting copyrighted matierial. Depending on what you are casting(is it a GW product?) you may or may not be able to sell any casts you make. Copys are generally fairly easy to pick out if they are made using non-commercial processes(ie: cheap and easy) and if you get caught with copied models it can mean ejection from your FLGS(permanantly), potentially a lawsuit, and you won't be able to sell them if you decide to get out of playing with them.

if its a Historical miniature you can get away with it. You can't copyright a Tiger tank for example.

**Ouze**

Prediction: This thread will fall to the omniscient hammer of the IPquisition.

**Kilkrazy**

Nobody expects the IPquisition!

Seriously, if you want advice and help on casting your own original pieces, there are some articles on Dakka.

If you want to recast someone else's pieces, that is against copyright and the thread will be locked.

I just bought 0.5Kg of RTV Silicone moulding compounds and 2Kg of fast cast Polyurethane resin for about £45 inc VAT and delivery. This type of resin has very low viscosity and supposedly will be good for avoiding air bubbles.

I expect the costs would be lower in the USA.

**porkuslime**

Note that the OP says he cannot do resin.. so that is out.

If you are looking to melt metal and do a cast that way, SOME of the resin tutorials would help but it also would help us help you if we knew a bit more about what you are casting.

If figures, then press mold is not gonna work. If you are casting your own barrels in metal to make scenery, we might.

I think the only materials to cast yourself with are metal, plaster, and resin.. right?

**The Bringer**

Would it be considered illegal to model your own lightning claws from GS and cast them?

From what I've heard about resin, its takes skill to use without warping your model, and it takes skill to fix a warped model.

**AlexHolker**

The Bringer wrote:Would it be considered illegal to model your own lightning claws from GS and cast them?

No. As long as you're not just copying GW's Lightning Claws, you'd be fine.

**Balance**

The Bringer wrote:Would it be considered illegal to model your own lightning claws from GS and cast them?

Short answer: probably not.

Long answer: I am not an IP lawyer, but if they're different from GW's design, then you're free and clear. "How different" to be clear is a big issue, but refer to the 'I am not an IP Lawyer" part of this discussion.

The Bringer wrote:From what I've heard about resin, its takes skill to use without warping your model, and it takes skill to fix a warped model.

Everything takes time to do well.

Anyway, it looks like your desired result is a bunch of lightning claws. If casting isn't an option (and it looks like it might not be for you) you may want to try to see if there's some other easier-to-find bit you can grab from a common sprue or part from the hardware or craft store you can reuse.

**The Bringer**

It would have been quite a lot more than home-made lightning claws, but that was what I was worried about the most because they had the finest and most detailed parts.

**col. krazy kenny**

Deleted due to poor typing skills.

**MechaEmperor7000**

dunno about how GW actually rules it, but in school we are told that if the material you are copying is 60% your own original, it's considered to be yours and no one else's. Trying to sell it, however, you'd have to go through the lengthy GW list of copyrighted and trademark material (listed in every single codex).

Depending on how much you plan on casting you may make it cheaper in the longrun. the larger amount of casting material you purchase the lower the price will be. I just bought some casting supplies yesterday (gonna cast the 30th edition white dwarf so that I get a duplicate Bugman and White Dwarf body to convert into individual models instead of that gigantic point sink) and the 8 oz casting resin was 12 bucks, whereas the 16 one was relatively cheaper at 18 bucks (the 8 oz pack looks like it has enough to make about two tactical squads worth of models).

If you want cheaper, go look at some FLGS with resale models. I once got a Screaming Skull catapult for 5 bucks, as well as 5 Terminators with PFs for 20.

**whalemusic360**

Molding is quite easy actually, especially things with a flat side like shoulder pads for 1 piece molds. I have had 0 problems with the silicone warping any models. The casting can be a bit tricky, but using slower setting resins and poking around in there helps, as would making a cheapo vibration table (ie, board on the washer). There are ways to use cast models without anyone suspecting, but that can be handled in pm land if needed.

**Scott-S6**

The Bringer wrote:I guess I should have said this, but I can't do resin.

I'm curious - Why can't you do resin? It's easier and safer than casting white metal.

**The Bringer**

Metal is much more accessible to me. Also, Resin may be less dangerous than metal, but the only way to be hurt by metal is through carelessness, or not knowing some of the dangers of it.

The reason I was not wanting resin is because mainly of the warping, and my impression from what I've heard about resin is that it doesn't do really well with tiny parts. Is this incorrect?

**Scott-S6**

You'll find it far better for tiny parts than metal.

As for warping, if you're patient with demoulding this can be dramatically reduced. Fixing any warpage you do get is easy.

**Kilkrazy**

There aren't any hard and fast rules regarding how much of a copyrighted work you are allowed to copy.

However, I believe you would be fine with lightning claws as they are an obvious copy of ancient weapons like the bagh nagh and Japanese kumade. This means there is no copyright in the basic design.

If you mould off the GW originals you will have copied their sculpt, which does have copyright.

You could easily make your own master using plasticard and green stuff, etc. If you are worried about the thickness of the tines, simply do a variant design with two or three thicker prongs.

**MagickalMemories**

col. krazy kenny wrote:Try the Hobby Lobby if you live in the states, they have them in starter kits for around 35$.Hers what i came up with for your problem wanting bits in multiple form but are to expensive.i am having the same problemi need around a 100 grav chutes for my I.G. army making them all. air assult infantry and conscrpits.Use silicone molds sold sometimes as a putty or 2 part liquid.for your mold making buy legos for this. build a box from legos.pour half let it set.then reapet.FOR casting materials buy a metal hot pot this can be bought at train set shops or your better bait and tackle fishing stores, you wanted cheap find a bait and tackle shop that sells cast it yourself lead fishing sinker kits.Make mold,heat hot pot,add metal if theese are going to be for personal use you can always mix lead and pewter.Hopefully you are not trying to do detaill because trying to use this method will only result in craptacular detail.Keep it small and basic stuff,guns ,knives etc.Also you will need to make a viberation table. heres what you need for that. two peices of plywood qurter inch thick minium at least 12 inches length,8 inchs wide, 4 decent sized springs,one or two palm sized back massagers four pronged, They sale at the drugstore for around 5 dollars each,The purpose of the viberation table is to help release the airbubbles.heres the build on the vibe table.one board first,the springs on all 4 corners,2 massagers in the middle,set speed on massagers to low or medium your preferences.Hers my suggestions and equipment you will need.For the mold, silicone rubber for making the mold, use the mold making guidelines from here the ones that are made from legos,Metal hot pot this will work better and cheaper for the beginner than using resin,just remember basic and simple.for persoal use you may use lead. i prefer to melt down old pewter models for my recasts.cheaper if you got a bunch.But if decide to use lead please dont let the chidren lick them.vibration table.Check your local Hobby lobby,better fishing supply stores and your local H.O. scale train dealer. thanks.

Wow.
Dude.
Please, use proper spaces, punctuation and paragraphs.
I got a headache trying to read that.

Eric

**whalemusic360**

^ +1

I just skipped it all together tbh.

**Balance**

Do most canon lightning claws have the characteristic 'wire' on them like power weapons, or a similar feature that might make them unique?

Although i'm not sure how this works legally anyway. I understand that direct copying is out, but I'm not sure how 'sculpting a custom version for personal use' works. Might be less of an issue.

**whalemusic360**

If he were to make a "Four (or 3 or whatever) Bladed push dagger compatible with 28mm heroic scale models" out of GS and cast it, GW would have 0 claim on it.

**Balance**

whalemusic360 wrote:If he were to make a "Four (or 3 or whatever) Bladed push dagger compatible with 28mm heroic scale models" out of GS and cast it, GW would have 0 claim on it.

Of course not.

**Papaskittels**

The Bringer wrote:Would it be considered illegal to model your own lightning claws from GS and cast them?

From what I've heard about resin, its takes skill to use without warping your model, and it takes skill to fix a warped model.

Unless you are selling, or showing off to the owners of your Flgs, NO ONE CARES

I have casted multiple OABR dreds, but no one gives a crap unless you make a big deal out of it.

**whalemusic360**

Not the feared OABR Dreads! Almost as scary as killer rabbits!

**AvatarForm**

HAHA! In what world is casting your own cheap? Unless you plan on casting from bulk Plaster of Paris...

Decent setup for bubble-free minis is $600AUD minimum. For a vacuum chamber and other necessary tech. Not to mention the materials for moulds and of course, resin.