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I'm planning on getting some resin upgrade kits to be applied to some plastic Cadians, but obviously the parts are gonna be too small for me to conventionally clean (they're mostly helmets, grenades, ammo packs and other small acessories). Do I let them just soak in it? How long would I have to leave them in for? Or is there some other way to clean them? And will super glue work alright to glue those resin parts to the plastic models?

Let em sit in 1 part water 1 part simple green overnight....scrub with old toothbrush. If the paint is really thick or old it may take a couple of soaks to get all the paint off.

Superglue should work fine, glue accelerant is helpful as well. Not sure how small a part you speak of, but when using adhesives I personally like to score the two mating surfaces to increase the strength of the bond.

are the parts new or painted? if they're painted, do what agro says. otherwise, just wash them in a small pan that you'd use in the stove filled with warm (not hot as it'll warp the resin) water and regular dish soap. that way you don't lose the pieces down the drain. after you wash them, have a second pan or cup ready with clean water to rinse them and dry them on a paper towel. also, super glue is the only glue you can use since plastic glue doesn't work on resin. i wouldn't use glue accelerant though since the reaction is quite exothermic (i had the misfortune of using very runny superglue and accelerator... while not noticing that the glue ran down my finger to the web of skin between the fingers just prior to spraying the accelerant... yah, that burned like hell and i couldn't drop the model either since it was an 8 piece metal one, lol). the accelerator might heat up the resin to the point it'll damage it. when using expensive FW parts (especially the more fragile smaller ones), i'd ere on the side of caution.

I'd assume that slow cure plastic cement works fine on resin? If so this would be a far better option than superglue. Just requires a little more patience and steady hands.

Try epoxy such as araldite.

Superglue can be hit and miss.


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agroszkiewicz wrote:I'd assume that slow cure plastic cement works fine on resin? If so this would be a far better option than superglue. Just requires a little more patience and steady hands.

Resin has a different chemical make up. Poly/plastic cement would likely just sit on the surface of resin, there would be no true bonding/welding.

The solvent concentration isn't strong enough to have any effect on resin.

Toluene (the major solvent used in polycements) CAN soften/dissolve resin, but has to be in much higher than 1% concentrations.

Superglue or quick acting epoxy adhesives will work (once you clean off the mould release).

Sometimes all it needs is a scrub with soapy water. Sometimes it needs methylated spirits to cut through it.

No one great solution for it, it's a 'take each case as they come' thing.

Once I've done a soak in warm water with washing up liquid, I scrub with a toothbrush (old one obviously) and a degreasing cleaner like Cilit Bang. (any kitchen cleaner marked as degreasing). I then soak them again overnight in warm water.

The main thing I do though, once I've assembled the parts for painting, I coat them in Spray varnish. Once this has cured for 24 hours, I then undercoat them. The varnish is more 'sticky' than paint, so forms a base for the undercoat to grip to. This will stop your paint from peeling off the resin.

The paint peeling was a major issue with Forgeworld parts due to the release agent in the mould. In the last few years though this problem seems to have got better, so I can only assume FW have started to use a different Degreaser.