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Plastic glue takes hours to dry and doesn't hold.

Also, should I use different types of glues to stick resin to plastic and resin to metal?

This is my first time dealing with resin models. Any help would be appreciated.

I use Duro super glue on all my models and never have any problems. Stuff is pretty cheap and can generally be found at a local hardware store

I use gorilla brand super glue, it cheap, effective, and you can get it in any hardware store. Just protect your fingers.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll look into them. I've used gorilla glue on other things before. Doesn't it take a long time do dry?

I use E-6000. You can find it in the craft section of Walmart. It hold tight, works literally with everything, won't stick your fingers together and takes a few seconds to set up, so you can make sure the pieces are in the exactly right position before you're committed. However, it is sort of thick, so it takes a little practice to use without making a mess. Just be sure to use as little as will cover most of one of the surfaces you're gluing together and you'll be fine. And it's also not brittle like superglue. It also cheap.

Sam, he said Gorilla Brand SUPERGLUE, not the regular Gorilla Glue. Also, plastic glue will never work, as it is a solvent that melts two pieces of polystyrene together. As resin isn't polystyrene, it won't work.

I use either Gorilla Superglue or a 5 minute, two part epoxy for my resin stuff.

I would also recomend pinning joints, espically smaller ones, for extra strength

winnertakesall wrote:I would also recomend pinning joints, espically smaller ones, for extra strength

This.

I use superglue on mine, any brand but the thin ones are best (at least for me) as there is less to bulge out of joints once you put the parts together. Also, remember to wash the resin parts in warm soapy water and dry them fully before you glue- especially if you are working with Forge World stuff. If you don't the release agent they use to get the parts out of the moulds will do it's job with the glue, and the bond will either fail or not be as strong.

I cannot agree with misguidance enough. Wash, wash, wash your models with hot water and soap to get the releasing agents off them or first you will not be able to glue the models and second you will not be able to get your paint to stick. After that, you need to pin your resin/FW models. Every single model from infantry to dreadnoughts I have had to pin. Your glue will stick but I have always had bonding/stability issues.

Generalstoner wrote:I cannot agree with misguidance enough. Wash, wash, wash your models with hot water and soap to get the releasing agents off them or first you will not be able to glue the models and second you will not be able to get your paint to stick. After that, you need to pin your resin/FW models. Every single model from infantry to dreadnoughts I have had to pin. Your glue will stick but I have always had bonding/stability issues.

I work with resin all day long, and this is the truth. I've had whole projects nearly ruined because I only washed my resin parts one time, and not thoroughly enough. Use a combination of dish soap and for smoother pieces use a mildly abrasive cleaner like Comet or other other powdered household cleaners. Scrub, rinse and repeat.

It's pretty disheartening when your glue and primer slides off your resin model like flakes of overcooked scrambled eggs off a Teflon skillet.

Super glue (cyanoacrylate glue) works best for small parts, larger pieces or tougher fits should be sanded to rough up the bonding surface before using a 2-part epoxy glue. Squadron putty has a slight solvent effect on Urethane resin and can aid in bonding pieces with uneven surfaces. Always pin anything that will ever be handled or possibly bumped because resin can be whack yo.

Thanks a lot to the last few posters. I appreciate the insight. I didn't know that I had to wash resin before gluing and painting it.

I am sad to say, however, that the insight came a little late. I have already assembled my models and attached GW plastic bits to them. Should I still wash them before I paint them? I'm worried about them falling apart if I do that.

At least I know for next time.

These are the models I am using, they are being converted into chmeras and counts-as sentinels:

http://www.oldcrowmodels.co.uk/25clay.htm

http://www.oldcrowmodels.co.uk/25gecko.htm


Thanks again for the help.

You should be fine still washing them. It really shouldn't be a problem with the glue and the plastic will certainly be fine.

I washed my models for ten minutes. Is that enough time?

I havent had problems with the paint sticking to non-washed models. Be careful though as certain cleaners will weaken or outright dissolve superglue, to say nothing less of other glues.

And just to restate what Todosi said, Plastic Glue is a misnomer. It's not actually glue at all. It's literally melting the two pieces of plastic temporaritly and then hardens it into one piece. Washing the model has nothing to do with it.

I've not had ANY trouble painting the Old Crow stuff after a wash with mild detergent (the casts are already keyed for painting) but I use an automotive primer to prime mine.

Superglue or epoxy adhesives are for gluing resin and ANYTHING else (resin/resin, resin plastic, resin/metal) together as plastic glues won't do squat to resin unless it is a PVC adhesive/solvent like the kind used by plumbers to join PVC or ABS piping (which use a mix of MEK and Toluene).

Plastic glue might ALSO use Toluene, but it's at a much weaker concentration (less than 1%). Won't do much to resin but strip paint.

I also use some of Jez's Geckos for my Sentinels. The pickup variant is for the open-topped scouting sentinels. The enclosed ones for the armoured ones.

Whoa! You used a Claymore as a Chimera? It's a trifle large for the job really, isn't it? If it were only a 6 wheeler (and about 2" shorter) I'd have no issues with it at all for 40k.

In other games (Hammer's Slammers, Tomorrow's War, Stargrunt II) it's fine as it is though.

The Claymore is pretty narrow. As far as capacity goes, it barely looks like it could hold six guardsmen. I was worried about it being too small.

Regardless, thanks for all the advice. It's been very useful. I probably should have made this thread before I glued everything together, but at least I know for next time.

Oh, I know how large the Claymore is.

I've got a couple. I use them as Calliopes (air defense) in Hammer's Slammers games. I had thought to use them as Hydras but they were too long and thin for the 40k job (and most of my younger clubmates CAN'T see beyond using GW stuff for EVERYTHING).