Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Dakka Artists,

I have a marine army that I have weathered. I have chipped the black power armor revealing metal beneath.

I am basing them in a ruined hive world setting of all concrete rubble and to help add realism and some more color to black armored marines, I want to dust/dirty up their legs and feet with light grey.

However, I don't think dry brushing is the ticket. I'm not sure what to do.

Can you help?

Thanks

MM

Yep dry brushing is the answer though there are others that someone more experienced in weathering might be able to help you with. But i also think that fw does some nice weathering paints such as rust etc. They also do a nice book on how to use them effective though I think its a bit on the expensive side like most of their things.

Modelling powders would work quite well on the legs of marines, or if you have the money and skills a quick airbrush burst of a colour such as denheb stone would do the trick as well and look good, i've used the powders before and liked them but you do use a fair amount if you're working on multiple mini's, hope this kinda helps you a bit?

Powders are the way to go.

But your biggest thing to realize for an urban setting like the one you described?

It wouldn't just be on their feet/legs.

What I, personally, would do in your situation?

I'd have powder laid out and then blow it at the model from different angles, shaking off the excess.

Weathering powders/pigments are the tits. Futz around with them a bit to get the hang of things before going at your models, but the learning curve isn't terribly steep. I picked up a few shades of rust and a soot black and I've never looked back.

idk if this is comon knowledge but i saw you can use rubing achohal to set the powder

Thanks ALL!

Hershey555 That was one of my questions. Can anyone confirm?

Also, do I have to use FW powders? I don't mind, but by the time my order arrives we'll be playing WH 50K.

Are there any, perhaps States side, vendors that can get me product within a normal 3-5 non express window?

I've searched the forums and can't find much on how to use powders.

Thanks again for all the help.

MM

tamiya make some powders that I used, they're not too bad, but the applicator is ordinary. they are fairly cheap as well

Master Melta wrote:Thanks ALL!

Hershey555 That was one of my questions. Can anyone confirm?

Also, do I have to use FW powders? I don't mind, but by the time my order arrives we'll be playing WH 50K.

Are there any, perhaps States side, vendors that can get me product within a normal 3-5 non express window?

I've searched the forums and can't find much on how to use powders.

Thanks again for all the help.

MM

Uh, it takes around 5-7 days for most Forge World orders(non-express) to arrive--barring the item being out of stock(in which case, you can't actually order it--so that point really is moot) or severe weather shenanigans on their end or yours.

Depending on whether or not you have experience with weathering powders and their usage, that slightly affects the suggestions I'd make. Some are easier to work with than others.

Secret Weapon has a full line of weathering powders that I've made good use of.

Alcohol or mineral spirits are good for setting them. But keep in mind without some sort of binder, the powder can wipe off. I've mixed matt acrylic medium in with pigments before to good effect on my Angels Sanguine Bases.

thanks guys.

I plan on using alcohol with the powders and then sealing the entire figs with brush on flat varnish.

MM

Master Melta wrote:thanks guys.

I plan on using alcohol with the powders and then sealing the entire figs with brush on flat varnish.

MM

Brush on might smear whatever you're sealing. Airbrushed sealer or worst case spray can sealer would be safer.

First:
Don't do the actual weathering before you varnish/seal the model. It takes away from the luster of the weathering material.

Second: Rubbing alcohol works, but it's not necessary. You can do it using a light amount of water or even acrylic paint thinner(Tamiya makes really good stuff for this).

Third:
Use hairspray to finish the model once you've done all the weathering. It holds the weathering material in place, retains the colors, and more importantly--doesn't actually futz with your paintjob/varnish.

somthing else you can do that doesnt invlove powders is using paint washes. Dont get me wrong the powders are great I use them on tanks quite a bit. But I have found w/ the small scale of the marines that paint works well, here is what you need;

Isoproponal alcohol
distilled water
Tamyia "Buff" paint
small brush
mixing cup
testors dull coat

Now you want to create a 50/50 mix of water paint, and make sure that you have dull coated your model at this point, dont worry, anyhting you want to be glossy can be hit with a gloss coat later. Now you take your iso/water mix and the Tamyia "buff" paint and you mix up about a 1/15 ratio, that is one part paint to 15 equal parts iso/water. This should give you a very thin wash, simply start applying the was where you want the dust to be, do not "slop" it on. Dip your brush in the mix and then gently drag your brush once maybe twice along a damp paper towel, then bursh onto the model where you want the dust to be. Let dry and repeat untill you are happy with the amount of dust you have put on, once complete, dullcoat model again and you are good to go.

Ashton

Brush on might smear whatever you're sealing. Airbrushed sealer or worst case spray can sealer would be safer.

I've heard bad stories about spray sealer destroying paintjobs. Any advice there?

I will try a combination. Once I get my product in, I'll formulate a plan and solict advice from everyone.

Thanks and anymore help that is available is welcome.

MM

Master Melta wrote:

Brush on might smear whatever you're sealing. Airbrushed sealer or worst case spray can sealer would be safer.

I've heard bad stories about spray sealer destroying paintjobs. Any advice there?

I will try a combination. Once I get my product in, I'll formulate a plan and solict advice from everyone.

Thanks and anymore help that is available is welcome.

MM

Keep in mind, if you use poor quality products, you get poor quality results, and the most expensive isnt always the best quality....Testors dull coat is a great product, I have been using it for years, when I have done professional models for movies and such I would use Testors, it is cheap and produces an excellent durable finish. The GW/Army painter stuff is craptastic...

Ashton

Master Melta wrote:Creatin Dusty/dirty Marines

Easy do PT in Iraq!

...oh, sorry...

I got my pigments from APJ, but I'm not sure if Les is still selling - I recall he ran into some trouble with regulations after someone went whistle-blower. MIG or Secret Weapon powders are pretty much the same thing.

Personally, I just use plain old drugstore rubbing alcohol (70% isopropyl) and it hasn't failed me yet. You can either mix up a wash, make a thicker textured "mud" to dab on, or dust the powders on, then load your brush with alcohol and lightly touch it here and there, letting capillary action carry the alcohol where it needs to go. Plus, being alcohol, it evaporates relatively quickly, reducing time spent waiting. I've heard the MIG sealer reeks to high heaven and takes some time to dry.

If you really want the texture to stand out, though, the pigment needs to be on top of any significant amount of varnishing. Just alcohol will keep it stuck pretty well, but it will rub off eventually, even with relatively careful handling.

Kanluwen wrote:Powders are the way to go.

What do you think about those mascara-style Taimya kits? I love mine.

Maybe he's born with it . . . Maybe it's Taimya.

Manchu wrote:

Kanluwen wrote:Powders are the way to go.

What do you think about those mascara-style Taimya kits? I love mine.

Maybe he's born with it . . . Maybe it's Taimya.

Tried them, didn't really like them.

I like Vallejo, FW, and MIG's powder set up much better.

WIP goons that will get the weathering.

I went ahead and ordered FW powders. I'll put results up when they are in.

MM

i know its not marines but same thing applies, I found this nice little tutorial on dust. Quite a nice effect I think, hope that helps

Finally got the images to work after detarding myself.