Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

So I'm testing putting the shoulder-sized Ragnar SW transfer. I've tried cutting as close as I can and cutting a square around it. Both cases I followed GW's instructions: wet the surface, slide the wet transfer into place, pat with brush then dab with a paper towel to dry. But the edges never stay down and one time it fell straight off a few minutes later when turned over.

What am I doing wrong? I don't want to buy that special stuff. I attempted to freehand and that failed; the brush wouldn't stay pointy and I can't stay steady enough, my shape looked like a shark more than a wolf head, my drawing in pencil on paper was good, though maybe because it was bigger it was easier.

Also, does it matter which side of the transfer is touching the model? I'm really annoyed now. I've gone through 5 transfers testing and they all failed in some way badly. Would applying one of the varnish type paints, like the gloss varnish from GW or the matte one from Valejo, over it help?

I'm going crazy here and want to figure it out. >_<

Firstly, make sure the water is luc-warm when you dip the transfer, let it sit for at least 20 seconds, and then apply the transfer.

What I found best works in to let it dry and then apply a clear-coat. You can find this stuff in arts and crafts stores in fairly large sizes containers. It's basically just a watered down Elmer's glue.

Apply this clear coat onto the transfer with a brush and then let it sit and dry. The things will never come off this way.

You need setting solutions mate. The only reason GW don't suggest them (they DO use them) is that they don't currently sell them. For the sake of about £5 of solution that will last for years and years and the modicum of effort it takes to do the job properly, you're burning money in spoiled transfers. Gloss, solution, decal, gloss, matt. Every. Single. Time.

And yes, it does usually matter which way up the decal sits; usually the layers go backing paper->adhesive->film->base print->top print(light colours over white)->sealant.

Water soaks through the backing paper and softens the adhesive and actually can wash it away if you soak too long / too hot.

To put on the transfers you need a shallow bowl with water a damp paper or cloth towel some tweezers some of this http://www.houseofhobbies.com/sodeseso.html
Follow the directions and you will not have any problems with your decals.


Dip the decal in the water with the tweezers then place on the damp towel let sit for 30 seconds or until the decal moves. Do not leave the decal in the water just dip it.
Just before you place the decal paint the area that the decal is going to lay down on with the solvaset then place the decal.
Let dry the decal will wrinkle this is normal paint it again till the wrinkles lay flat then let dry this can take a while to do take your time and do it correctly.
When the area has dried spray with some dull coat.

A transfer has two sides. The bottom side, facing the paper, has the glue on it. The other side will not stick to the model at all.

Also use decal setting solution as mentioned by other users.

No way around it buddy setting solution is your friend, even the cheap testor one you can get at a toy store called decal set works wonders.I use Microscale Microset and MicroSol. MicroSet acts more like an adhesive to help the decal stick better. Microsol can be used after to soften the decal to help it form around curves and grooves better.

Soak your decal in water. brush on the solution onto the shoulder then apply the decal. use the brush to move the decal around gently and add more solution to the top of the decal. When you have it in place, use a q-tip to gently absorb the excess solution and use it to roll the decal to the contours of the shoulder pad, pressing out the air bubbles and forming it around the curves. You can keep wetting it with solution to make adjustments then use the q-tip to clean it up. The technique works great. I had immense trouble with decals and the shoulders until I started doing it this way, now they all lay flat on the curves and perfect.

Good luck...

Decal Set is your god... Get some lad, it will help tremendously.

After you set the decals either paint around them to rid yourself of the silvering, or coat the entire model in a glossy varnish, and then matte coat.

PEACE!

What should I get then? I need a North American online store, though I think the store I know of can order anything. Are there any side-effects of using the solutions? I'm leaning towards getting microset/sol. What's the difference between the two? Do I need both? If I order them from the website they're a dollar short of shipping to Canada. >_< I'm gonna keep trying with water on my test model. I was using cold water and left it in too long, maybe it'll help...

Set sets the decal and makes the process way easier.

Sol is some kinda low-grade acid that makes the decal a bit "soft" which will help if there's some panel lines or stuff underneath it.

Pick up some brush on gloss varnish while you're at it. Makes it way easier to place the decal and prevents silvering.

http://pitoftheoni.blogspot.com/2008/08/decals-getting-that-painted-on-look.html

The main issue is where to get it from. Like I said, it needs to ship to Canada. I don't want to have to spend a lot on shipping for something this cheap.

http://www.greathobbies.com/productinfo/?prod_id=MSIMI1

I bet that if you walk into any store in Montreal that sells scale model kits they will have either Micro Set or similar decal setting solution.

Thanks man, the shipping is ridiculously cheap and doesn't change no matter which option I chose.

Great! : )
Dont forget to post your foreray into the magical decal land. To many it is kinda a revelation "You can actually use them [decals]? For real?" =)

How did you find a Canadian site when you're from Sweden?


Automatically Appended Next Post:
That or I suck at searching for niche things.

I just googled a little?

lol, well I called and they'll give me a shipping estimate by Tuesday. So I'll be ordering them then. How long do the bottles last? Do I still soak the transfer in water first? Then apply set on the surface then position it then sol? Also do I avoid drying it with tissue or anything similar? Also, will it do anything to the brush? which brush should I use? (regular, detail or drybrush?) I have the GW ones.

The bottles should basically last you for an eternity assuming you don't have a million guys to stick decals on. You're gonna want to apply the decal as normal with water. It helps to get the surface you're putting it on wet with some micro-set too before you place the decal. Then wet the same brush with some micro-set and wash it over the decal and move it into place. Once that dries do it again. It should only take one or two goes before the decal is nice and flush with the surface. I would probably just let it air dry too unless it's really soaked. Any brush should do as well. Word to the wise tho, Micro-sol can blanch paint jobs. Something in it just doesn't agree too much with acrylics. Micro-set probably won't do that. I personally prefer micro-sol tho, because the funky effects on the paint give it a more worn/weathered look to the paint, which was completely by accident when it first happened, but I was pretty happy with the way it came out. Best of luck!

Mine have lasted for quite some time. Although I'm mostly painting orks which aint too decal heavy. I guess it'll last as long as your line highlight colour since that's about how much you use.

I use the "standard" brush for marine shoulderpads. Holds just enough to cover the area.

Do a test once you get them. Paint a plasticard in a random color. Put a decal on like you used to. Next to that one you gloss the area and put a decal on there. Next to that one you gloss and use micro set. Just to get a feel for what it does.

I do have a test marine to be my new idea bitch. At worst I pay $12 for 3 more to test on. How bad does sol wear the paint down? Is it easy enough to patch up with a quick bit of paint? Or does it eat multiple layers? Anything else I should know?

Hard to say without my models in front of me. But it basically made the catachan green on some shoulder pads look less vibrant and more sun bleached. But that was for green. Not sure what it will do to other colors. Guess you'll just have to test it out.

Well I have space wolves, so it's already a light blue-grey, it can't get much more grey.

I've been perfecting this, but I paint ultramarines and the Omega is tough to put on the shoulder with our the top crinkling. This process works very well for me
I do following...
1.) dip transfer in water and using tweezers, put it in place.
2.) Once you have the transfer in place on the model, brush this stuff on it.
http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-2&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=0
Let it dry... repeat using this stuff until all crinkles are out.
3.) using a brush apply a coat of gloss hardener over transfer. Let dry completely.
4.) apply dull cote finish of your choice. I recommend Testors laquer dulcote.

I managed to have a chat with the Q-Lab scenery chaps at WHW and they gave me the following advice which works wonders for me. After some practice I can now get the carrier medium to dissapear without any major fuss (well any more than the hassle of waterslides anyway).

Get your kit ready. You need gloss varnish, a small amount of water, a couple of brushes and some patience (something I lack at times!)

Gloss varnish the area you want the transfer to go and let it dry

Get the blue backing damp, and then re-varnish the area. By the time you have done that the slide should be free.

Slide the transfer into the still wet varnish, position and allow to dry. When moving the slide try not to bring any water into the mix, hence just adding enough water to dampen the paper (a drop or two depending on the size) as it will still release fine.

Gloss varnish again to protect, then purity seal or dullcoat the entire mini to taste. I do end up putting loads of layers of spray varnish on my minis, because they have a hard life and I hate doing touch ups.

The above method works, but only on thin decals - thicker, home printer friendly films will tend to leave a visible ridge using this technique (unless you put a really thick varnish on which has it's own problems).

Just got my set and sol! Cost $7CDN for the two + $13CDN for the shipping. >_< (the cheapest was 10 and would come a week later) I'll test it out on my test model tonight. I still only got 5/15 from the battleforce built yesterday. It took way longer than I thought and they're not even done!