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Alright, so I may be coming into a Catachan Command squad at some point soon, and I have took a look at the sprue to find a few of the things I really like on it. Especially with one of the bodies, the one standing on the skull. The only problem is, how would one go with removing the shirtless body, which is directly attached to the model. The legs and chest are one piece. I would like to use the legs, but is there a good way to go about "Transferring" the shirtless chest to a cadian commander/ armored chest without damaging the legs?

I heard of people using a jeweler's saw or a dremel with some sort of attachment, I think I would go with the jeweler's saw for safety.

Broadside wrote:I heard of people using a jeweler's saw or a dremel with some sort of attachment, I think I would go with the jeweler's saw for safety.

What's a jeweler's saw and could a common shop tool (or any shop tool) be used the same way?

A very small, thin, sturdy saw. You could also slowly saw at it with an x-acto if you really wanted to.

Brother SRM wrote:A very small, thin, sturdy saw. You could also slowly saw at it with an x-acto if you really wanted to.

Would it leave it uneven like when I use wire cutters on arms to change the weapons? (It makes it angled on one side, and it wont match up)

Kinda like a mini hacksaw. http://www.micromark.com/Jewelers-Saw,6747.html

Razorsaw.

Not necessarily the GW one, ProEdge, X-acto and others have similar things.
Simple cut.
I do it all the time.

Line it up against my thumbnail (the flat of the blade rests against this - it keeps the blade going where I want it to go.).

chromedog wrote:Razorsaw.

Line it up against my thumbnail (the flat of the blade rests against this - it keeps the blade going where I want it to go.).

Please don't do this. Go and buy a clamp. Mark the cut with a pigment pen. Cut using either a hobby tool with a circular blade attachment, or use a razor saw. Gentle cuts. File to a flat finish. If cutting metal, please obtain an appropriate blade, escpecially with a rotary hobby tool as an improper blade can shatter and embed itself in anything soft and squiahy.

For the love of god, don't even think about putting your fingers anywhere near a hobby blade under pressure.

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/349631.page

Did you even READ my post?

The FLAT of the blade (the bit that DOESN'T cut) is against my thumbnail. All it does is keep it vertical. It is a MANUAL saw tool. Not high speed, not even remotely unsafe.

A razor saw might share a mounting with an x-acto (or similar) blade, but they are not the same thing.

I've not cut myself with a razorsaw doing this EVER.

POWERtools on plastic are excessive. You are more likely to MELT the plastic that cut it.

chromedog wrote:Did you even READ my post?

The FLAT of the blade (the bit that DOESN'T cut) is against my thumbnail. All it does is keep it vertical. It is a MANUAL saw tool. Not high speed, not even remotely unsafe.

A razor saw might share a mounting with an x-acto (or similar) blade, but they are not the same thing.

I've not cut myself with a razorsaw doing this EVER.

POWERtools on plastic are excessive. You are more likely to MELT the plastic that cut it.

You don't appear to handle a conflicting point of view very well. I managed a production cell on a factory floor before the recession. If you were making a straight cut, with a blade that wasn't either clamped, or in a mitre box I'd have fired you. At the very least you'd have had a health and safety review. If you don't like criticism, please don't ask a 16 year old kid to put his hands near cutting tools.

If you're getting melting on plastic from a rotary, I suggest you swap to a thinner blade, as you're generating far too much surface friction. I would also suggest a number of smaller cuts to limit exposure of the plastic to the blade face.

I disagreed with something you said. Get over it. It's the internet, we're all idiots.

Bah! health and safety these days blows everything out of proportion, I always use my fingers as a guide for sawing or cutting, unless your a complete idiot you wont cut yourself, when i'm cutting smaller bits of plastic with a knife I use my thumb to stop the blade not the table (gives you a more precise cut), unless you are being really stupid with your tools you will not cut yourself.

Anyway H&S rant over... if your using a knife or saw to cut the body and dont want to risk cutting the angle wrong make a small cut on one side, then the other, then go back to the first side and repeat so your cuts should meet in the centre. Make sure you check every now and then to make sure your cuts are no deviating at all but I have found this is one of the most reliable ways to do it, it is time consuming though so you need to have some patience.

"I use my thumb to stop the blade not the table (gives you a more precise cut), unless you are being really stupid with your tools you will not cut yourself"

Paradoxical. O_o


Also, I'd suggest a mini mitre box and a bracket clamp.

Clamp the mini inside the box (clamp on the side to be discarded of course), and use the 90 degree guide for your cut.

You can make one yourself for less than $10. Accurate cutting, and no lopped fingers. Best of both worlds. You might think I'm a little overcautious, that's fine.

The reason I'm overcautious is that I've seen the before and after of missing digits more than once, and I've had a couple of bone deep wounds from unsecured blades.

Simple fact 1) The person you are advising is 16. I doubt they're going to be as adept at using cutting tools as we might be.

Simple fact number 2) A thin blade on an undulating surface doesn't generate anywhere near the amount of control that is needed to accurately control a cutting tool.

Simple Fact 3) Minis are tiny. Fingers are often bigger. If you're going to cut with your digit as a guide, at least keep the others out of the way by securing the mini properly.

Simple fact 4) Repetitive strokes with a blade creates flexion and torsion across the blade. These forces not only warp a blade, but also make it more likely to slip.

For the sake of derailing the thread (though good discipline is relevant) that's the end of it. If you want to be "that guy" and continue to defend the merit of cutting oneself, then I have some suggested listening in the form of emotional hardcore.

Either way .. drop the mini in boiling water first .. just to soften it up. If using a hobby knife to cut it will cut a little easier.

Without repeating the above ... please be careful.

chromedog wrote:Did you even READ my post?

The FLAT of the blade (the bit that DOESN'T cut) is against my thumbnail. All it does is keep it vertical. It is a MANUAL saw tool. Not high speed, not even remotely unsafe.

A razor saw might share a mounting with an x-acto (or similar) blade, but they are not the same thing.

I've not cut myself with a razorsaw doing this EVER.

POWERtools on plastic are excessive. You are more likely to MELT the plastic that cut it.

The CAPITALS are the reflection of a FOUNTAIN of bad ADVICE.

If you are going to saw away at a mini using a fingertip as a guide, at least use a thimble (you know, the little bucket shaped thing used when sewing that protects your digit !) to protect your "guide finger" and keep the others tucked back out of the way.

Much as I'd like to parrot the "Health & Safety" concerns raised so far there are times when a shape is too awkward to clamp safely. Personally, in those situations, I press the part into blu-tac on my cutting mat and pin it in place with my thumb and middle finger, whilst using my index finger as a guide for the cut with a thimble to protect it in the event of slipping.

Regardless which method you use - always take a moment to look for the safest way even if it means using a slower method.

That last brings me nicely on to power tools ! It's a small model, for god's sake, so why use a dremel (or such) ? Go back to the "early days" of this hobby and you'll find that it was always Razor Saw then File - slow and patient and much less likely to reduce your package of fingers if done properly.

Just my opinion

Blood for the Blood God! Anyone?... Anyone?!?

Personally, I prefer to use an imprecise cutting tool if I'm going to dispose of the extra bit and filing, scalping down unwanted bits.

Conandoodle wrote:Either way .. drop the mini in boiling water first .. just to soften it up.

No, just no. Has this now become a contest for dispensing terrible advice? Softening up the part will just lead to ruining it.

ChrisCP wrote:Blood for the Blood God! Anyone?... Anyone?!?

Yeah! *Hi-fives ChrisCP*

and Agamemnon2, I think Conandoodle really was kidding.

A saw is not a knife.

Using a thumbnail to guide a saw shouldn't be a problem, it's less hazardous than chopping/cutting food with a sharp knife. If you slip and cut yourself you were applying to much pressure too early in the cut. Consider it a lesson learned if that happens.

Bullfrog wrote:If you slip and cut yourself you were applying to much pressure too early in the cut. Consider it a lesson learned if that happens.

Thanks dad! Now I know self-injury builds character!

ImperialTard wrote:

Bullfrog wrote:If you slip and cut yourself you were applying to much pressure too early in the cut. Consider it a lesson learned if that happens.

Thanks dad! Now I know self-injury builds character!

Pity it doesn't promote deduction or analytical reading, otherwise you might have understood what I meant. And while it won't build character it will build experience with cutty things therefore reducing injuries in all but the most moronic.

Saw, Knife... I use one of these bad boys. Ultrafine - 7/8" X 1/16" as thick as an craft knife razor blade.

Now I wouldn't brace that with a thumbnail.

Clamps are annoying and fiddly and can damage plastic bits, especially smaller bits. A manual saw of the size you should be using on miniatures on isn't going to be moving fast enough to allow you to cut yourself unless you are paying absolutely no attention whatsoever. You only need a guide for the first few swipes anyway and then you can add some pressure. A fingernail or knuckle does this job marvellously well.

Now knives are dangerous, especially blunt ones. But surely everone knows that models do better on the battlefield if they've been drenched in blood during construction

So what I am getting here is... Use a Saw and dont be stupid?

Bullfrog wrote:

ImperialTard wrote:

Bullfrog wrote:If you slip and cut yourself you were applying to much pressure too early in the cut. Consider it a lesson learned if that happens.

Thanks dad! Now I know self-injury builds character!

Pity it doesn't promote deduction or analytical reading, otherwise you might have understood what I meant.

Pity? Even if it did, I've never cut myself while holding something like an idiot. So I wouldn't have understood what you meant anyway.

Agamemnon2 wrote:

Conandoodle wrote:Either way .. drop the mini in boiling water first .. just to soften it up.

No, just no. Has this now become a contest for dispensing terrible advice? Softening up the part will just lead to ruining it.

Serious?? I've done it twice at it was awesome. It just softened the plastic up a little. It was only in the water for about 5-10 seconds.

I'm surprised I didn't get abused and told that hot water is dangerous and I should be wearing the appropriate safety gear by some posters