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For those of you out there that create your own decals or use transfer paper for whatever reason - is there some you recommend for use with 40K models? Is there something specific I should be looking for in regard to transfer paper?

I'm wanting to learn! Inundate me with your knowledge!

No one uses transfer paper of their own?

I've just had a bout with Testor's paper with very mixed results. At least don't believe them when they tell you it's got a white background... it's clear like their clear background paper.

Gitsplitta wrote:I've just had a bout with Testor's paper with very mixed results. At least don't believe them when they tell you it's got a white background... it's clear like their clear background paper.

That's what I'm looking for - clear-background transfer paper. What negatives have you found with Testor's?

Gitsplitta wrote:I've just had a bout with Testor's paper with very mixed results. At least don't believe them when they tell you it's got a white background... it's clear like their clear background paper.

From what I gather, It's often best to apply the white background with paint and sit the decal on the top. Knowing me though, it's probably tosh. It's been one of those days where I'm wrong about most things

>_>

Believe it or not I just ended up printing my design on regular white paper and giving it a few coats of laquer to protect it and fix the ink. Then I carefully glued it onto the surface. Works perfectly as long as your design is simple and surface is flat. I would like to find good decal paper though.

Man, I need to just write a tutorial on this don't I?

Anyway, I use Testors decal paper. I haven't actually gotten around to using the White yet, but Clear on White Paint, then touched up edges works fine.

Issues\tips I have about testors paper are:

Make your original graphic much larger then you actually want it to be and then scale down. Never ever scale up (unless you're using vector graphics, if you don't know, you probably aren't using vector graphics).
Print on plain paper to check the size.
Print with your printer settings on high quality, not "normal" like the instructions tell you.
Let the ink dry
When you use the decal bonder to "seal" the paper. Do a light dusting and let dry. Repeat 2-3 times, then give it a good coat to really seal it. If you don't the ink will bleed.
5 seconds in water, 20 out, then GENTLY slide onto the model.
The decals come out a little more ridgid then normal transfers, so a solvent like Micro-Sol might be needed to get the decals to conform to curved/angeld surfaces like shoulder pads.

I've only ever used the white laserprinter film by Testors.

Not had any problems with colour-fast issues or bleed or suchlike. Don't have to lacquer it to keep the ink on it.

You still have to laquer them to keep them on the models, but that's a different issue (and normal for decals).