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Dipped. I'm so beyond impressed. Normally I don't even care because I'm such a terrible painter. But this stuff right here, makes me want to really take my time, be sure that I'm dipping clean models that have had mould lines scraped off and that I've spent time with, because I know my time will be maximized by dipping the models.

This thread is automatically good just because of the title.
And, the models are good, it's just the mold line on the leg of the one on the left sort of bugs me, but it's literally minuscule.
Great job.

What brand and shade of dip do you use ? share the experience please !

Couple of points:
1. Love the title
2. Those skeletons look awesome
3. Love the title
4. It is totally worth removing the mould lines on any model that is gonna be dipped, because it looks so much better that way
5. Love the title
6. Keep the good work up and put more pics up soon
7. Love the title

Aquaterry

LunaHound wrote:What brand and shade of dip do you use ? share the experience please !

Please do, ive seen a lot of dipped models and these look better by far.

Would like to do this for my fantasy army as well.

The models are so simple.

Have you guys ever seen the "Draw an Owl" picture? That funny one that says
"Step one, draw a circle"
"Step two, draw the rest of the fething owl."

This is literally the way the Dip Process works.

I started with Krylon's "Satin finish" Almond spraypaint as an undercoat on all of the models. If I could have found the bone-white spraypaint, I would have.

Then it was one single coat on all of the colors. I have read in other places, that you should use bright colors because the dark ones tend to get muddied up.

I also took a shot in the dark and decided that I wanted to try to let the white show through. So every area I painted, I only painted one layer, and I tried to do a 50/50 water paint mix. In the large areas it created a 3rd layer of shade where the white really shows through.

Bows got one "Red Gore" coloring

The helms got the "burnished gold"

The bow-tips and some of the jewelery got "Mithril Silver"

Finally it was Hawk turquoise as the wrappings. (this one was really tough, it was always either way too thick, or way too thin...)

Finally, I used Mantic's "Army Painter Quickshade" as the dip. They have 3 shades, there's a Soft Tone, a strong tone, and a dark-tone, I used the "Strong tone".

Finally, dipping is easy, dip the model in the can, "use a pair of pliers to really grab the base" and then pull the model out, Shake as much of the product off the model and into the can as you can, and then take the pliers and give it 3 or 4 good whips toward the ground... that shakes off most of the excess.

Finally, set the model on its base on a piece of cardboard. After dipping about 10 models, add a step between dipping. Go to the model you dipped first, and use a paper towl to dab off anywhere, where the dip has formed a droplet hanging from somewhere it shouldn't (the bows had a nasty habit of formign a droplet, and the hands too)

Dip-shake-dab repeat like 30 times.

My arm was so dead afterwards... hurt like hell. You really have to put some leverage behind whipping your arm around like that or the stuff doesn't come off.

Finally, (learned this the hard way) clean your hands and your tools with some mineral oil immediately. This stuff gets really sticky as it dries, and it does NOT come off.

One last part, a lot of people like to put stuff on the base before they paint. You can't do that with this particular dip. Anything that hits the sand is going to create a layer of epoxy that's going to fill in the gaps, and paint doesn't like to stick to it. So I had to hit the base with sand, followed by a "khemri brown" undercoat, and a bone white dry-brushing.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

Aquaterry wrote:Couple of points:
1. Love the title
2. Those skeletons look awesome
3. Love the title
4. It is totally worth removing the mould lines on any model that is gonna be dipped, because it looks so much better that way5. Love the title
6. Keep the good work up and put more pics up soon
7. Love the title

Aquaterry

I was honestly expecting my usual crap, so I didn't see any reason to pull the mould lines. I know I sound like a shill for Mantics stuff, but I just can't get over how awesome these guys turned out. Next up is 30 spearmen, and a Necrosphynx.

Have you tried brushing on the dip? I use thinned Minwax Polyshades Mission Oak satin and brush it on. Keeps it more controlled, no drippy mess.

Another bonus...I can apply dip to some parts and not others. Example...I just did a terminator in DA green base with Snot Green drybrush. That gave the armor its shade/tone. I then used a small brush to apply my dip to his shield, sword, etc...all the things I wanted a wash effect on.

This is my first experience ever using any sort of poly as a shading agent, so I hadn't ever tried brushing it on. I kinda figured I would have to brush it on my Necro-Sphynx. It may help save some drippage on the skeleton models too. The dip and shake process seems to waste a lot.

I have been using the Dip on my Nids for a while now, and I really like the effect it produces on some models. These skeletons look great! Only thing I could suggest (shich has already been suggested) is to clean those mold lines.

I can also see where some of te dip has pooled up on the bottom of a couple bows. Go grab some old cheap brushes from wal-mart, and try to brush the Dip on. Dont brush it on like you are painting it, just dip the drush in the pot, and slather it all over the place. Let it sit while you brush on some more dip on other models. After about 10 minutes go back and wipe off any dip that is pooling with your brush.

Just a little taste of what I've got in the can. These are the before pictures. I've got the sand drying on the bases... as soon as the sand gets undercoated, dry-brushed, and the edges get painted black I should have this online by tonight.

just FYI the dip is from army painter, not mantic. but i absolutely love this, i just never pick an army or paint scheme that it works with myself

These are the "After" pictures.

Great job, and a great title. Skeletons are one of the most dramatic examples of what a dip can do, and yours really show out.

I'm also not a great painter, but once I discovered the dip I was finally able to put down figures that I was proud of.

I dip almost everything now, though I use a brush and Minwax Polyshades Pecan, Antique Walnut and Tudor, which correspond quite closeley to Army Painter Soft, Strong and Dark tones respectively.

As to getting it on your hands. It's nothing a little mineral spirits won't get off.

Very nice! It's always refreshing to see dip done right (yes, it's supposed to be the quick and easy method, but people can muck up anything, if given the chance). A lot of painting snobs knock it, but I feel it's like drybrushing - it won't work on every model and it doesn't suddenly make you a better painter, but it's a great tool when used on the right models and with a little care. These guys are proof of that.

Some WIP, the gold areas were all painted with Dip.