Skull white pot

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**dave_salmon**

I've bought a pot of skull white to base a few models by hand and I'm having trouble applying a consistent layer.

It's either watery thin or mm thick. This is straight out of the pot, but I did give it a thorough shaking before I started painting with it.

I'm not so impressed with GW paints or brushes at all if I'm honest but I've figured out how to work with the colours I use in my scheme. I just can't figure out how to paint consistently with the skull white pot.

Is there a trick or should I get a white base from another manufacturer?

**SoloFalcon1138**

White is the most notoriously difficult paint to use, second being yellow. The pigments used in them are very weak, so they are frustrating to make stick. use a good white or grey spray primer first, otherwise, the paint will break over the highlights and you'll see the metal/plastic through the paint. After that, you should have good results.

And don't base your entire opinion of Games Workshop paints on one paint, especially Skull White. Most if not all white and yellow paints do the same thing. It's technique that helps with those colors.

**Saintspirit**

A good trick to use if you sprayprime black is to paint astronomican grey as a basecoat for the white, that usually works good for me.

**poda_t**

Saintspirit wrote:A good trick to use if you sprayprime black is to paint astronomican grey as a basecoat for the white, that usually works good for me.

+1

Grey is necessary undercoat to white, otherwise it will look like it was dashed on in a hurry. adding grey underneath gives it more lighting effect to white, and helps the white look convincing

**Aurelia**

poda_t wrote:
Saintspirit wrote:A good trick to use if you sprayprime black is to paint astronomican grey as a basecoat for the white, that usually works good for me.

+1

Grey is necessary undercoat to white, otherwise it will look like it was dashed on in a hurry. adding grey underneath gives it more lighting effect to white, and helps the white look convincing

Wise words! It is worth looking into what kind of white you want to end up with though, grey is a fine basecoat for a general white colour. (For ease definately go for grey.) If you are up for a more specific white, a blue (for a brighter look) or brown (for a more 'natural' look) basecoat will give you the same smooth white finish. Another tip is to be patient with white and apply as many thinned layers as you can, too much will end up lumpy.

Thats one of mine from a few years back, I failed to thin the paint enough. (Shadow grey/codex grey 3:1 basecoat.)

**Blarglord**

Switch to Vallejo, it's cheaper, you'll feel better.

**Leigen_Zero**

Blarglord wrote:Switch to Vallejo, it's cheaper, you'll feel better.

I use GW paint, but I have heard many people say the same thing about many white paints by many manufacturers.

My advice would be, if GW paints are the only ones available, to lay down a basecoat of Dheneb Stone (to get the decent light basecoat) and then like the others lay down a large number of very thin coats of Skull White (we're talking 3-4 layers, with the paint being the consistency of a cup of tea i.e. watery but still being a solid colour).

**gr1m_dan**

Vallejo do a white primer paint and it's similar to a foundation paint. I've used that for Sisters of Battle (White armour with primer, watered down blue wash, skull white as the main white after) and it's come out brilliant.

As the others said, be patient and do lots of thin layers. It takes time but it's the only way with white.

**Slipstream**

I use an even basecoat of porcelain blue(very light blue) and find that three coats of white is usually enough. I've always found using grey leaves shadows that the white can't hide.

**CrazyMez**

Personnally, Iv had sucess with, Black, Khemri Brown, Bleached Brown Or Coex Grey, Then Skull White.

All Coats need to be thin, but it work. Use Bone to get a lighty dirty white, good for choas, and codex for a crisper white.