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Ok, so i know you supposed to rinse in warm water and soap, ive done that and ive left my models to soak in simple green for a week, and i washed them again after getting them out.

The DKoK ive ordered wont get the mold release to go, or the primer wont stick.

I've used Krylon Fusion Black, and it didnt work welll at all seemed like water on oil and clumped up in areas while leaving the other areas normal,
Used GW primer which seemed to stick but ive heard it doesnt stay on long.

And last i used rustoleum Sandable Black Primer, and itd didnt stick at all i picked up a model and it wipped off, by rubbing my finger against it.


What can i do to either get a good primer for the resin models or to get the mold release off.

They dont seem very glossy, they are but they arent. So, im not sure if its the mold release or if its the primers.

AFAIK, the best way to get mold release off is simply to keep washing over and over again, and scrub them (hard.) with an old (emphasis on old) toothbrush.

Primer still doesn't stick? Rinse and repeat.

Your alternative is to set up a bowl with hot water and dishwashing soap and let the figure soak for at least a few hours. Then scrub them with a toothbrush and rinse.

If soap isn't working (really don't know why it wouldn't) then try diluting some Simple Green and using that to wash with.

Neither of you guys read his post.

This isn't a mold release problem - the resin didn't set right, and the models are unusable. Call Forgeworld and explain, they should get another set out to you.

Another person with a similar problem's blog post: http://teninchtemplate.blogspot.com/2011/04/myth-of-mold-release.html

I would also question the use of simple green. If used undiluted it can leave things a bit greasy unless followed with a good wash in water w dish soap then a good rinse.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

MasterSlowPoke wrote:Neither of you guys read his post.

This isn't a mold release problem - the resin didn't set right, and the models are unusable. Call Forgeworld and explain, they should get another set out to you.

Allowing them to sit in the simple green for a week might have caused the resin to destabilize. Its a cleaning solvent...it dissolves things. Leave things to soak for no more than say 10-15 minutes. Make sure its diluted. The stuff is stronger than people think it is.

MasterSlowPoke wrote:Neither of you guys read his post.

This isn't a mold release problem - the resin didn't set right, and the models are unusable. Call Forgeworld and explain, they should get another set out to you.

Another person with a similar problem's blog post: http://teninchtemplate.blogspot.com/2011/04/myth-of-mold-release.html

And I don't think you read his post either.

He didn't use Primer. He used Krylon's flat black paint. That's not a primer.
He then says that he tried to use Rustoleum Sandable Black Primer and it "didn't stick" where he picked up a model and wiped the paint off(I don't know how long he let it sit for, but that stuff takes a bit).

I don't think having left it in the Simple Green will cause any problems, because I've left resin sitting in pure Simple Green for a week or more and had no problems.

As for this, I don't know what exactly could be causing it. If the resin hadn't set right, then the resin would be peeling off inside of the Simple Green.

Best advice is to call Forge World, and ask them what they suggest.

I have had this issue in the past happen with other resin stuff, it can be either stubborn mold release, or the resin not curing properly. In both cases what I have done is sprayed the model with 2-3 light coast of Testor's Dull Coat. It is a lacquer based sealer, lacquer and resin seem to bond really, really well. Anyway, after it sets you can paint right over it, no need to prime. Other wise, call FW....


Ashton

Redfinger wrote:I have had this issue in the past happen with other resin stuff, it can be either stubborn mold release, or the resin not curing properly. In both cases what I have done is sprayed the model with 2-3 light coast of Testor's Dull Coat. It is a lacquer based sealer, lacquer and resin seem to bond really, really well. Anyway, after it sets you can paint right over it, no need to prime. Other wise, call FW....
Ashton

Honestly, this is what I do anyways. DullCote makes it easier to paint and gives a real good surface for things to 'stick' to.

Had this happen many times, both with my own casts and bad FW orders. The resin was not mixed properly before pouring, which causes the resin to 'sweat' or 'breathe'. It appears it is the primer---where in reality it's the resin sweating.

Each time, I phoned FW and explained---they pretty much had the same conclusion and promptly sent out a new piece.

i have a sonic toothbrush, a sonicare. I take the regular head off that i use and put the modelling one on whenever I clean forgeworld resin. My method is as follows and I just cleaned a toad dragon with this:

1. If you are in england get some fairy liquid and if you are in the USA obtain some dawn dish soap.

2. Put resin kit parts in a large bowl, generously drizzle soap of choice on it.

3. Cover parts with warm water.

4. Allow bowl to sit overnight. This should put everything in the solution into suspension.

5. Rinse off models the following day.

6. Repeat but let the parts sit for an hour. Fill another bowl with warm water.

7. Transfer model parts to the clean bowl and clean them using sonic toothbrush.

8. Put cleaned parts onto a paper towel.

9. Do this for all the parts then repeat this entire process at least one more time.


Using a varnish before painting is good advice, it should seal that crap up. I've made a lot of resin kits and forgeworld's stuff is by and far the worst and most poorly produced, in a manufacturing sense, I have ever encountered.

Hope this helps.

This makes me 2nd guess wanting to order any FW stuff...

Ive heard, (but not tried myself.) that if you put a very thin coat of super glue over them, try not to fill in the details, and them the paint should stick normally.

CrazyMez wrote:Ive heard, (but not tried myself.) that if you put a very thin coat of super glue over them, try not to fill in the details, and them the paint should stick normally.

Exactly how do you do this without messing up details?

Krylon Fusion is for plastic, not resin, and doesn't work on non plastic models I've found.

Well, i set the models in simple green again tonight to see if It was just me messing up washing or something.

If i cant prime it again, i will have to call FW :(

Gotta love UK to US shipping ;(((

Thanks guys, for the information, never knew about the resin sweating and not mixing properly could lead to something like this.

Breotan wrote:

CrazyMez wrote:Ive heard, (but not tried myself.) that if you put a very thin coat of super glue over them, try not to fill in the details, and them the paint should stick normally.

Exactly how do you do this without messing up details?

Like I said Ive not tried it my self, but I heard if you use the really thin super glue, with the brush end you can get a light even coat with out ruining details. But having not tried it my self I cnat really give any mor einfo.

You have my sympathies. I ordered loads of DKOK from FW and I know how long it takes for them to arrive. I also had a problem with one of my models which I had to call up to get resolved and wait another 2 weeks for a replacement.

I just cut off and prepped the resin pieces, immersed them in Fairy Liquid water (don't know what the American equivilant is if you don't get it over there) for about 10 minutes then washed them in normal water and let them air dry. That was always enough for all my FW resin stuff to take standard GW Chaos Black spray.

Anyways, there's been enough suggestions on what to do but honestly after all this I think it seems like you have a bad batch. Call up Forge World whenever you can, they are always really friendly and easy to talk to (when they decide to pick up the phone!) and explain your problem. They are the best people to get advice from and they send out replacements without asking too many questions (heck, all I had to do was tell them I had a single heavy weapon team without parts and I got a whole new one sent to me free of charge - they didn't even ask for evidence or anything).

Best of luck!

Does resin sweating pick up in different temperatures??

My house is about 75 degrees F and outside when I prime them it's about 90-95 degrees, I live in Texas btw.

And since over started the resin has gotten sifter and easier to bend. Like legs of the models have become more like a rubber.

This definitely sounds like a case of a 'bad batch'.

TAP plastics sells a spray on resin finish and sealer. It's basically a very thin setting coat of clear resin. I've used it on epoxy resins that take weeks and weeks to set completely.