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Whenever I try and glue some stuff together with superglue (games sweatshop brand) sometimes it has a tendency to remain fluid after 10 minutes, and when it finally sets in 30 minutes, its bond is negligible. Can someone please tell me what the heck is going on??? I've been having this issue for a while....

Are you going for plastic to plastic? or metal to metal, failcost to failcost?

Iv had bad experiance with plastic to plastic with superglue.

Durp!!!

I am doing metal to metal. I have had no problems with plastic-to-metal, and I dont use it for plastic to plastic

If you are bonding plastics, you are probably better off using plastic polystyrene glue, as it literally melts and bonds the plastic where the glue is applied. Your problem could also be quantity, you dont want to use large amounts of superglue, if a joint is having problems bonding, just use a smal amount to keep it in place, and then put on another layer of glue. I would recommend also dropping GW brand glue as it is far more expensive than store bought glue and the same thing as store bought glue.

Generally it just means too much glue. Another thing you could try is scoring the two surfaces you wish to bond with a knife, superglue requires alot of surface area to 'Go off' correctly. Movement and weight can also effect the 'going off' process as the glue needs to remain still as it cures and any movement or strain on the joint will cause it to flow.

you could also either use sand paper on the bonding area, or score it gently with a sharp exacto knife to make the bond stronger. If that doesnt work, your only real option is to use putty, or pin it.

ninjad ^

I have always found a really small piece of greenstuff inbetween the two surfaces works amazingly well because it give the superglue a perfect surface instead. Do uperglue green stuff superglue sandwich. Not too much greenstuff or you will have too much in between and it will make it look wrong

garr, i doubt its ammounts, because i can put two identical ammounts, both small, in two identical arm sockets and one will bond in 15 seconds, the other socket won't... GARRRR

but yeah, i've dropped GW brand already, the stuff I have is "Dregs".

I've also scored both surfaces and it didn't seem to do a heck of a job... DAMN YOU GW FAILBRAND!!!!

If the part is too heavy and causing movement it will generally take a while to form a bond, (im not sure how big the parts you are using and im asuming there is some movement), try to set something up whereby the parts are perfectly still without you holding them.

Have you washed the metal parts before hand? maybe some mold release still on it or something? otherwise I'd suggest trying another brand of glue

Hope you get it sorted

T-M

mikeb2817 wrote:If the part is too heavy and causing movement it will generally take a while to form a bond, (im not sure how big the parts you are using and im asuming there is some movement), try to set something up whereby the parts are perfectly still without you holding them.

Lol, this gets better: the part i'm having issues with is even lighter!!!!!!!!

LOL

oh man, this is too funny


Automatically Appended Next Post:

TungstenMonkey wrote:Have you washed the metal parts before hand? maybe some mold release still on it or something? otherwise I'd suggest trying another brand of glue

Hope you get it sorted

T-M

I was wondering if that might be the issue, but then there was stuff that I'd stripped, then washed, that still had issues too.... I think it might have more to do with its crappy brand...

Anyway, I'd bought two models from the Reaper miniatures line, one of them was a skeleton knight (add bolt pistol and power plant, and he's a LOTD sarge) and the other guy looked like a fancy shamancy chaos warrior with a power axe (again, plasma pistol into the hand, a power plant on the back, and done)

Ill try a new brand of superglue in the coming weeks.

Use less glue, make sure the surfaces are CLEAN and rough, and hold them firmly together while the glue cures.

A drop of water can help super glue kick off also.

What I do is blow air through closed lips, like im trying to play a brass instrument.
Talking like daffy duck at your models also works.
Lots of air, a little spittle, you've got your main two easy fixes in one.

Lol, doomthumbs, you never cease giving me the giggles.

Anyway, here are the models I bought:

No real conversion on this one, just a OOP bolt pistol into his one hand, and an OOP loyalist power plant on his back. I need a couple of skulls to finish his squad so they all look equally dead.

And this guy received an OOP plastic plasma pistol (wide pistol, with a skull on the back end of it)

Metal-to-metal is the worst.

For starters:

1) Make sure you have a clean surface. Wash with soap and water, scrub, then wash with water to get rid of the soap.
2) Score the surface and make it as rough as you can. Use a knife to cut a waffleboard pattern in both pieces.
3) Use a pin vice and pin whenever possible. This helps a *lot*.
4) Once you place the pieces together, don't mess with them - wait for them to dry. Superglue cures as it is slowly exposed to the moisture in the atmosphere. If you keep moving it around, it will just take longer - because you are breaking the outer "crust" that initially forms when you place the pieces together