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The citadel stuff works it just takes a long time to dry. Pinning makes models much more resiliant to breaking at a connection, and some models can't be built without pinning ie the Dark Elf Hydra. Personally I use Gorilla Glue but that is just me.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2011/07/26 18:08:02
d3m01iti0n wrote:
BT uses the Codex Astartes as toilet paper. They’re an Imp Fist successor, recruit from multiple planets, and are known to be the largest Chapter in the galaxy. They’re on a constant Crusade, keeping it real for the Emperor and not bumming around like the other guys. They hate psykers and can’t ally with them. They’re basically an entire chapter of Chaplains. CC lunatics. What every Space Marine should aspire to be, if not trapped in a Matt Ward nightmare.
I've found that the stronger the bonding glue (Like Citadel, Epoxy, or Zap-a-Gap), the longer the drying time. I personally use Dollar Store superglue to temporarily hold it in place (Since if I accidentally apply some pressure, it can easily pop off), and Zap-a-Gap on top of that to form a much stronger bond.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2011/07/26 18:23:54
Imagine the feeling when you position your tanks, engines idling, landing gear deployed for a low profile, with firing solutions along a key bottleneck. Then some fether lands a dreadnought behind them in a giant heat shielded coke can.
I like Superglue Gel myself. The Gel isn't all runny and if the pieces aren't a perfect fit the gel will run into the crack and fill it.
Using glue on metal is a pain. I do it anyway cuz I am too lazy to pin. Usually have to hold the parts in place for at least 2 minutes before it is strong enough to stick. Then I leave the thing overnight. With lots of models I can only glue 1 part per day or else it all falls apart. Kaptain Badrukk was one of those. It seemed I'd never get him together. But patience pays off and 7 weeks later I had my new Gitboss.
That's why I prefer plastic. But you know, pinning is good, too.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2011/07/26 20:19:51
Is it okay to just give one word reply,I mean "Okay" doesn't take that much time compared to just writing "K"
anyhow
I swear by my Loctite Gel, awesome stuff
be careful with zip kicker. it makes the glue brittle as it catalyses.
glue is really what a matter of whatever you want to use. I like the house brand that our FLGS uses. I bought it in 2 flavors, 1-3 second fast cure and 5-10 second set glue. depends on what you are trying to do.
pinning is an excellent utility for large models and keeping them together. and it takes very little practice.
you will likely glue your fingers to many 'a object until you get it right, but it comes over time. a little goes a long way as well.
remember that certain types of glue adhere better to one type of material than another.
best advice anyone ever gave me, just buy up small amounts of different glues and use the sprues and extra bits for your models and test them all. see what ones you like and how they effect different materials.
the superglue activator or zip kicker basicaly catalises all the nasty chemicals much quicker and you can get nasty health effects from using it too much... I always get really bad heartburn from using that stuff. No I am not eating it but superglue has cyanide in it and the activator puts that and other nasty chemicals into aerasol so you will be breathing it in....
Generally, super glue is super glue. There are only a couple of manufacturers worldwide of the stuff. I use Loctite and Bob Smith Industries, mainly because they are easy to find, work well, and are relatively cheap.
I've posted this elsewhere, but it bears repeating...
In my experience, brand isn't actually important, but every hobbist owes it to themselves to have 2 (possibly 3) kinds of superglue. I've given the BSI names below, but other brands make similar products.
1) A thick or "Gel" superglue (Maxi-Cure) for:
-gap filling
-joining of parts that aren't evenly matched.
2) A thin watery glue (insta-cure) for:
-Instant attachment of porus materials like balsa,
-surfaces that are well matched and need a close bond
-Strengthening of existing bonds. A truely thin superglue will be sucked into an existing crack by capilary action.
3)Optional: A ruberized (IC-2000) or flexible (Instaflex) super glue
-For gluing heavy metal models without pinning.
-For gluing models where shock absorbtion (usually heavy metal models) is a concern.
All 3 kinds of glue can be found from Bob Smith Industries. If you've never noticed BSI glue, it's because it's probably the brand in your model shop with the model shop's name stamped on it. Usually BSI glues are very reasonably priced. BSI ruberized glues are a bit less common in shops, but Gorilla rubberized glue is fairly widely available at hardware stores.
You can see all 3 kinds of glues here:
http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/ca.html
Sum up, glue type matters alot. Buying Loctite, Gorilla, BSI, or Krazy is no guarantee of good results unless you're buying the right tool for the job.
What sort of quantity are you looking to buy? Because if you have enough friends or enough money you can buy a heck of a lot of plasticard and it works out fairly cheap?
Eilif wrote:I've posted this elsewhere, but it bears repeating...
In my experience, brand isn't actually important, but every hobbist owes it to themselves to have 2 (possibly 3) kinds of superglue. I've given the BSI names below, but other brands make similar products.
1) A thick or "Gel" superglue (Maxi-Cure) for:
-gap filling
-joining of parts that aren't evenly matched.
2) A thin watery glue (insta-cure) for:
-Instant attachment of porus materials like balsa,
-surfaces that are well matched and need a close bond
-Strengthening of existing bonds. A truely thin superglue will be sucked into an existing crack by capilary action.
3)Optional: A ruberized (IC-2000) or flexible (Instaflex) super glue
-For gluing heavy metal models without pinning.
-For gluing models where shock absorbtion (usually heavy metal models) is a concern.
All 3 kinds of glue can be found from Bob Smith Industries. If you've never noticed BSI glue, it's because it's probably the brand in your model shop with the model shop's name stamped on it. Usually BSI glues are very reasonably priced. BSI ruberized glues are a bit less common in shops, but Gorilla rubberized glue is fairly widely available at hardware stores.
You can see all 3 kinds of glues here:
http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/ca.html
Sum up, glue type matters alot. Buying Loctite, Gorilla, BSI, or Krazy is no guarantee of good results unless you're buying the right tool for the job.
i just learned something new. THIS is the glue I use. works well and comes in bigger packages than the Citadel glues, and in different cure times.
Pinning is a sworn staple of metal modelling but seeing as you are in the same country as me, if you can get you hands on some industrial Siroflex super glue and activator spray, then pinning sometimes won't be needed!!! The superglue is used in the building trade and is the same formaular as normal superglue (loctite etc) but far stronger. The activator spray is needed to speed things up when gluing! I use it all the time with my last couple of metal models being a chaos bloodthirster, Karamazov's throne and a penitent machine! The glue has worked very well for me as I prefer metal models to any other (which would account for around 80% of my models but sadly going down).
I use a combination of superglue and green stuff on my metal models. Mix up a small batch of green stuff and put it on one of the parts you want to glue. Then, add a dab of superglue onto the green stuff. Press the two parts together and hold until the glue has had a chance to catch. Then, just let the mini cure for a day or so. The combination of the two gives a great bond and because of the green stuff you can assemble a figure quite quickly because it gives a nice hold. This picture should give you a good idea, what I'm talking about.
Orks is never beaten. 
a little goes a long way as well.
