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Would it be viable to assemble a FW Revenant Titan without pinning?
The pieces dont seem too heavy or particularly difficult but Im aware his legs are quite awkward.
Anyone tried it and got away with it? (total pinning noob here).

I suggest just learning how to pin, last think you want is for an arm to fall off and ruin your paint, or worse break an arm.

The revenant is very easily put together without pinning. Just make sure to score the joints on both sides to give the glue a firmer surface to hold.
I didnt pin my Revenant or my Phantom's arms. They are very lightweight.

Thanks Rakear, good to hear!
Can I ask what you used for a base?

Well... Galeforce hobby glue, and Rapid cure is your best friend
Rapid cure is this type of spray, that makes glue dry alot faster. It's very dependable. I had 3 squads of Krirg knocked out of the gaming board, and being crushed by a falling GW building. 1 of them lost it's lasguns tip.

For something that expensive you are crazy if you don't pin it. Pin and use a two part epoxy like JB Kwik and you will never worry about it falling apart.

^^^^ What he said, you cant always trust other people to be careful with oyur models either. a lesson i learnt the hard way, it would be a great shame to put all the work into such a nice (and expensive) model and then have an arm get knocked off accidentally. The pins dont have to be huge, just enough to give that extra strength the the bond.

My 2p anyway.

I'm no expert on building titans, but better safe than sorry! Especially with something representing that much money, time and effort...

I didn't pin mine and it's just fine. I used 2 part resin epoxy glue. I did use brass rod up it's leg, the thickest I could get up there and then drilled a hole into the titan's base for it. I suggest using something extremely heavy for the base. I used a chunk of marble (emulating a wraithbone surface sort of) which weighs a good 10 pounds.

Pin it, and glue it with Army painter of Galeforce glue and Rapid Cure.

Then, paintnit looking awesome, and update this thread.

Generally I drill out and install bolts like the old armorcast titans had for all my titan arms, however this was uneccessary for the Revenant.

Both of the gun arms of the Revenant, the pulsar and the flamer are stupid light, they weigh less than the head does, and despite being long done suffer from the normal balance issues that the other titans do. I excessivly scored the ball joints, very deep cuts, and did the same for the socket it went into and then used normal CA to adhere them. due to the scoring and the fact that they weigh next to nothing themselves the arms are not coming loose from anything short of a fall off the table.

If it were any other titan I would completely agree with pinning/bolting/anchoring the arms/torso. but for the revenant its rather uneccessary. the phantom is largely the same way, the arms look like they weight a good amount, but in truth weigh hardly anything and have no balance issues.

I went down to a local craft store and bought a 6x8" wood plaque (untreated or sealed wood), and a 12x9" plauqe for my phantom. scored the wood deeply, and drilled holes/scored the bottom of the feet of both to give the glue something solid to hold onto. both bases were cheap, under 10$. after its glued you can then paint/stain/seal it whatever color you want, and then flock it for a nice finished look.

Added a picture of mine to give you a idea on the look of the bases and arm angles. both of them have had the arms glued with just CA, and they are rock solid. the revenants arms are straight forward in the standard position. those arms are not coming off from anything short of a fall off the table.

Many thanks guys for the advice.
Small update: he arrived this week but one of the pulsar arms was bent quite badly. It wasnt the worst I've seen but for 200 quid I cant let it lie.
I've read online dipping it in hot water for a minute and reshaping works but that sounds....dodgy.
Best course of action in your opinions? Any experience with similar problems?

Also, be careful when using any Rapid Cure or other quick dry products when using superglue, as the bond can turn out a lot more brittle, as if you'd let it dry by itself.

As for the bent, I personally never ordered forgeworld items, but have heard, that they replace bent or broken items. And for 200 quid, you really should let them know that you're not happy with the state of you product.

Cheers,


IK-Painter

With the large resin eldar weapons you can expect some bend; warm water to soften the resin, then setting under cold (holding it in the straight position) does work.

Long, thin resin sections are also susceptible to sagging if kept in warmer places. You can counteract this by 'coring', but this is an advanced technique, that requires you to really chop your model up (so don't do it if you can't resculpt certain areas) and insert a metal core (drilling through each section and threading it onto a rod). Stops the sagging (as the resin sections now transfer their weight to the core), but is not a trick for the faint hearted.

Just gave FW a ring there looking for a replacement,. The rep assured me 100% that the boiling water/reset trick would work.
I told him I'd give it a shot but if not happy wanted a replacement. He said that was ok.
Im happy enough to try at least but do you think Im getting messed about?

If your polite to forgeworld, they definitely wont mess you around.
If its only bent, 5-10 mins max can fix it with the hot water technique, which in my eyes, isnt too difficult, when you'd be waiting for a couple of days for the re-cast to be made and posted.
I'd only say you were being messed around if they refused to replace the parts after trying to straighten it.

My 2p anyway

Had the same thing with my pulsars and I dipped them in hot water, they went a little softer, then I just held them vertically and now they're great.

As for not pinning- I've got to agree with the others that have implied about the risks. I wouldnt chance it. Having said that, mine has one leg off the base, so I'm pretty sure that needed it.

Ratius wrote:Just gave FW a ring there looking for a replacement,. The rep assured me 100% that the boiling water/reset trick would work.
I told him I'd give it a shot but if not happy wanted a replacement. He said that was ok.
Im happy enough to try at least but do you think Im getting messed about?

Just to be a bit picky, but it is kind of important, DON'T use boiling water. The resin FW uses starts to soften at much lower temperatures. Usually really hot tap water (around 60C I believe) is hot enough.
Also don't put it cold tap water after reshaping, let it cool normally, otherwise you'll have a real chance of either another deformation, or even worse cracks.

So I have a revenant and I never pinned it. Now granted I'm the only one that moves it in game, I don't mind people looking at it and I really only let people pick it up if I'm there and I tell them about the "loose" parts (the head and pulsars aren't glued down). I just used some gorilla glue and it's held up so far.
I also had the bent pulsar problem. I used some hot (not boiling) water. Pretty much I let it boil, then put it into a different container and added some room temp tap water to it. Doing my best English-Metric conversion it may have been about 60C-70C. It let me just bend it right back into place. My FLGS owner told me not to put it into cold water to harden it back up but rather let it cool naturally. He hasn't steered me wrong before so I took his advice and it looks perfect now.
As for a base I got a wooden pedastal that is used for mounting crafts on. It doesn't way much but it and the basing stuff is enough to keep the titan upright without problems. I got it at a local hobby lobby craft store.