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I started painting my first two Warjacks and decided to customize a down and dirty Kodiak. I thought everything is magnetized on my jacks, I might as well use the magnets I installed for Torch's flamethrower to double for the Kodiak's Shield fists. And here is the result of that moment of insanity:



My only problem is the rivets on the shield fists. How would I be able to to that?

I'd say just roll up some green stuff balls and chop them in half once they dried. Glue em on and I'd say they do the trick just fine. Some folks use chopped plasticard rods, but they won't be rounded like the rest of the rivets on the jack.

I would do this:

Take this product (or similar)

Link:

Chop to either short length or chop off pin length entirely.

Use heads for studs/bolts/rivets. Either by drilling and gluing (if you leave a short length) or by just gluing (if you chop off length entirely).
Plus, it's already got a nice shiney surface... unless that's not what you want, b/c then it kinda sucks...

Note: Pin size may vary. Size comparison is highly advised.

I tried the Plastic rod and those are the stud on the shoulder pad and my wife has those pins and the heads are too big. I'll try the green stuff but I'm not sure I can get it that size consistently.

Warlord Imp wrote:I tried the Plastic rod and those are the stud on the shoulder pad and my wife has those pins and the heads are too big. I'll try the green stuff but I'm not sure I can get it that size consistently.

Idea that just dawned on me (I'm brilliant when I first wake up lol..)

Depending on the size rivet, try using a straw as a "cookie-cutter" maybe? I know some straws are a bit big, and maybe coffee stirring straws are a bit small, but I see possibilities here... Long as you remember to wet the straw. Otherwise you've got a clogged cookie cutter... say that 5 times fast. Good luck.

I've heard of certain people getting water/coffee filters and using the little balls inside there as a source for more or less a lifetime's worth of rivets.

You can get plastic rod smaller than you need. Id get on ebay and buy some of that.

Tho thinking about it, probably is easier to use green stuff if you want the rounded over look

i'm fairly sure you can buy plastic rod in rounded shapes, try googling plastic dowel 1mm or something like that

WAAAAGGHH-god wrote:i'm fairly sure you can buy plastic rod in rounded shapes, try googling plastic dowel 1mm or something like that

I think the issue isn't finding round rod, it's rounding the top of the slice to dome the rivet head. You can get a slightly rounded effect by making your rivets a bit long and going over them with fine grit sandpaper by hand (or better yet, with a very fine sanding sponge). They won't look like the stock rivets, but it's better than totally flat slices.

Other options I've seen for getting round heads:
-PVA glue, applied in tiny drops with a pin or toothpick, can be built up in layers to form round bulges
-tiny ball bearing or beads (I believe they're called "seed beads" can be found in some really small sizes (~1mm) and countersunk (glued halfway into shallow holes of appropriate size)
-military modeling suppliers sell rivet sheets with all sorts of head shapes and sizes - just slice on off the backing and glue to the model (you can actually simulate this yourself, to a degree, by embossing relatively thin plasticard from behind, then shaving off the resulting protrusion)
-GS stamping - you can stamp small, round-ish headed rivets by stamping them out of a thin sheet of GS using the metal tube at the tip of a mechanical pencil (retract the lead, keep holding the button, press in, release button - now you've got a rivet inside the tube which can be ejected by advancing the lead)

I'd recommend the 1mm microbeads. I use them for rivets & also for studded shoulder pads. You have to drill a pilot hole for them to fit into obviously but that adds to the rivetted look.

++++EDIT++++
Ok, here's pre-paint pics of studded shoulder pads made using 1mm microbeads