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Make sure you leave some mark an E was there... outline it, make that area darker than around it, something. The letter was there for X years so it'd be less weathered underneath the letter.

F's for E's and given the letters in your possesion surely you could mould up some R's. But I think the missing letter idea is brilliant.

Oh, actually it's a good opportunity to try out your instant mold...

Molding them is also a good idea, I would go for the whole sprue though rather than just one individual letter. I'm sure Dave will figure something out, he is a minion after all!

Or you could skip them entirely and try neon I kid I kid though LED roping
Or just order more

I saw some LED rope at Target, but it was too big... because all the fething stores sell Christmas decorations already.....

You might check these guys out, they are who i Got the lights for my leviathan from.
http://poweredplay.net/catalog/fiber-optics-sampler-kit/

Some preliminary rivetwork before paint before letters (I've debated this with myself, and it's the best plan)

Dave, do you or any League members know any articles that can help with painting and using MDF models? I found some Angry Badger space floor tiles and I'm trying to work out the best approach if i buy them?

and on to your work..... the sign, is as usual spot on! I'm really waiting for the letters to go on it now, I like the fallen letter idea and I know you'll do it justice! have you thought about doing some creative photography and doing small scenes or photoshop work to bring these to another level of life? i'd love to see you recreate some game shots? :-)

Thanks Damo! MDF stuff should be treated just like any other model IMHO. It all gets covered with paint in the end. The material is irrelevant.

So I should be fine using Vallejo air primers through the ab without much wory of warping? and just use super glue to stick them to the tiles?

Vallejo air primers are the most superb primers in the entire world! It's all I use anymore. MDF doesn't generally warp in my experience using it. Hardboard does if a 4x4' sheet sits on it's end in a garage, but not at the size of bases I cut from it.

Ah good to know thanks Dave! :-) it'll cost me a little bit but then I can get creative and actually start the board once i've got the tiles done, plus they'll be lighter than plaster too! only thing i'm waiting on is my stuff from Armorcast :-( seriously not impressed with them at the moment, 2 months no communication and from my account hasn't even shipped yet! Grrrrr

Water is the bane of MDF. Just don't soak it, and you'll be fine. It cuts cleanly with a hacksaw, takes sandpaper no problem. For adhesion, if you're using hot glue, you'll need to rough up the surface. Otherwise, all adhesives work as one might expect. wood glue is great for larger structure/terrain, superglue for finer/smaller work.

As a note, wood glue is just great in general. If you don't have the patience for drying times, buy a Kindle and read a book.

--B.

Armorcast has been disappointing me too, however I hear that the reason/excuse is that they are all busy on the casting floor, that's why they can't do customer service? I dunno. smells fishy. We'll see. I had to re-email them after several months in order to provoke a response from them.

Really? on the website somewhere it read not to email them as they won't be returning the emails due to the busy nature of the business at the moment while they cast orders? I still of course did email them as I paid for the products and I want to know what the deal was, still no reply as yet which is sad as they as far as I know are a well respected business?

Yes, I always thought so too. Poor form indeed.

When I made my MDF drop pods, I used a PVA layer to coat the models a bit as a security precaution and the painting went okay

I used straight primer myself, PVA fills too many details for my tastes.

About the only thing I will put in here is how absorbant MDF is. The pva can be watered down a bit and at least it seals the surface once dry. Primer gets absorbed quickly into it. Only in my experience. Though i would add that I have had some great sucess with priming with car spray primer first.

Just my two cents.

Watered down PVA is exactly what I used as a "sealer" just in case the GW primer decided to act wonky with the MDF

I could never bring myself to pay GW prices for a can of spraypaint. I'm glad I have evolved past the humble rattlecan nowadays

Good riveting Dave and now very colourful.
And I can see the letters are out of the pack...

And when the letter are set, it will look more awesome than it does now!

Fantastic work master.

I have got to get me an airbrush, still rattling here.

Thank Ye fellas!



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Grime level 1

Oh yeah. Really liking that dirty yellow.

Thanks! It's actually called "Irradiated Yellow" I didn't even test the paint, I knew it was meant to be just by the name alone

Just noticed those colors match you in your avatar pretty well too

Coming together well, and you know I like it when a plan comes together