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So i have three Nurgle Plague Trolls.

I have worked with FW before and i washed them in a dish soap bath, then rubbed em down with an old toothbrush.

After this i primed them, and the paint flaked off if you stared hard enough at it....

So i stripped the paint with simple green, and soap bathed them again for something like 6 hours. Went at em with a toothbrush again...

This time primer seemed to hold fine despite them still seeming "shiny" no matter how much i brushed...

airbrushed em, put on some details, and i started to find little spots that apparently the agent was still alive and flaking my paint off.....they were minor so i continued on and planned to cover it with something later. My first wash of the entire models displayed that in fact quite a bit of it was still there, so now there are lots of totally bare spots. Some are in areas the brush should have gotten easily, others are in hard to get areas that might have gotten less attention...


So help me out here...why are these three being SOO difficult to clean, and is there any simple technique i can use with these spots instead of stripping the models AGAIN. I considered maybe scratching the area up(they are nurgle models so it should change the look lol) with a file, or maybe a very light brushing of super glue?

Try a scotchbrite pad instead of a file. It should be coarse enough to treat and scrub the area, but not so coarse as to make noticeable grooves.

On the FW stuff I have received lately I have been hitting everything with a light coat or two of Testors Dull Coat, then I proceed as normal. I have not had any problems since doing that.

Ashton

I've posted the following before -

I think there's something in the resin that's actually seeping out.
Try the following -
Get a sonic cleaner, eg like this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/CD-2800-Ultrasonic-Jewelry-Eyeglass-Cleaner/dp/B001DKDAVW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1327670064&sr=8-4
If that doesn't work, & this might sound drastic & people will poo-poo me but scrub with a brass wire or glass fibre brush.
This is great:
http://www.alwayshobbies.com/Tools-$4-Materials/Finishing-Products/Glass-Fibre-Pencil.ice
& you can get refills in brass & steel.
I've just had to use one on my Tunderbolt.
Trust me. I know it sounds radical and a bit over-the-top, but it works & won't destroy the detail on your models.


Trust me - it does work.

Maybe email FW as well, doubt they would be happy with their models behaving in this way

bubber wrote:I've posted the following before -

I think there's something in the resin that's actually seeping out.
Try the following -
Get a sonic cleaner, eg like this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/CD-2800-Ultrasonic-Jewelry-Eyeglass-Cleaner/dp/B001DKDAVW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1327670064&sr=8-4
If that doesn't work, & this might sound drastic & people will poo-poo me but scrub with a brass wire or glass fibre brush.
This is great:
http://www.alwayshobbies.com/Tools-$4-Materials/Finishing-Products/Glass-Fibre-Pencil.ice
& you can get refills in brass & steel.
I've just had to use one on my Tunderbolt.
Trust me. I know it sounds radical and a bit over-the-top, but it works & won't destroy the detail on your models.


Trust me - it does work.

this is is good advice, I've always used my sonicare toothbrush to clean forgeworld resin. I put it in warm washing up fluid, clean with sonic brush, repeat and I've never had an issue. doing it twice is key. Using a regular toothbrush would make things very challenging especially on nurgle things.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

Skippy wrote:Maybe email FW as well, doubt they would be happy with their models behaving in this way

they know full well what it's doing.

Thank you for the suggestions.

I decided to Email Forge world about it and seek their advice. I can tell you i did a very good job brushing the models the second time and i feel it must be something else going on here. I have worked with many FW pieces before and never once had paint even flake off, so the trouble these models are giving me just seems wrong.

In the mean time i think i'll put them aside and strip them later, i really don't enjoy re-painting things so at the moment i would rather forget about em for a bit....

Forge World believes it is a problem with the mix and are sending replacements, score one for customer service!

It does sound like a resin mix issue. If it has not mixed correctly, then it will leak a bit making it look shiney and stopping the paint sticking. Also, if you can mark it easily with your nails, then it sounds like ther was not enough hardener in the mix.

i have recieved FW models that had a hefty amount of release agent on them (it looked like gloss coat) after many failed attempts as scrubbing it clean it eventually came off with my ultrasonic cleaner.

usually if you use a good cleaner like Purple Power or Super Clean (Super Clean is better because its an engine degreaser) and give the parts a good soak and scrub you should be good to go.

i also suggest using car primer if you aren't already. it sticks to everything so much better than anything else out there and its cheap too!

Deathklaat wrote:i have recieved FW models that had a hefty amount of release agent on them (it looked like gloss coat) after many failed attempts as scrubbing it clean it eventually came off with my ultrasonic cleaner.

usually if you use a good cleaner like Purple Power or Super Clean (Super Clean is better because its an engine degreaser) and give the parts a good soak and scrub you should be good to go.

i also suggest using car primer if you aren't already. it sticks to everything so much better than anything else out there and its cheap too!

do you mean the kind of thing that's used to clean jewelry etc? i wonder how well super clean would do in an ultrasonic cleaner. they're about 20 bucks on amazon.

People over on the Ultrasonic cleaner thread have been using Simple Green and Purple Power in them with no ill effects reported.

The end decision over there was that it didn't clean 'better' but it reduced scrubbing to brushing, and 18 hours to 3 hours.

Bounty wrote:People over on the Ultrasonic cleaner thread have been using Simple Green and Purple Power in them with no ill effects reported.

The end decision over there was that it didn't clean 'better' but it reduced scrubbing to brushing, and 18 hours to 3 hours.

Thanks for the heads up. Intriguing.

It is not so much the release agent that is causing the problem as it is the type of resin they use having a gloss finish to it. A light coat of dull coat will solve this issue.

Ashton

i think the ultrasonic cleaner does clean better than doing it the soak and scrub method because it can get into small spaces and around fragile parts.

it does help speeding up the process and makes thick paint or mulitple layers easy to remove.

i have noticed that fluid that has been used a bit is great in the cleaner for removing FW residue, the paint particles act as tiny scrubbers.

got my replacement trolls...check out the difference.....



You can see the now stripped AGAIN model on the right, and the new models that have had only the normal soap bath+toothbrush on the left.

moral of the story, GW customer service is fantastic as usual when their products are messed up.

still, throw them in some heavy duty cleaner and you just got a two for one deal on trolls

Has anyone tried an automotive degreaser product?

That's an issue with the type of resin they are using.

Some PU resins come out like that.
Others have a less shiny appearance.

It's also partly due to the mould release used (I use talc for mine - it's cheap, it works, and it helps to alleviate the shiny from casts).

PPG brand degreaser available at an auto body shop supply store. Wet a rag with the stuff and wipe down the model. DO NOT SOAK the model in it. This will pull out the grease/moisture for resin models and even for painting cars.