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I was wondering if anyone had any advice on using it. I'm still new at using it and was hoping that someone had some tips for me.

dont get the GW stuff, you can get like 18" for £6 off ebay

and grab a sculpting tool, the gw ones pretty good

A good bit of info for beginners can be found here.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_Green_Stuff

From my personal experience and use:

-As mentioned, dont buy GW GS. Its not a matter of quality, but quantity. I buy Gale Force 9. Same stuff, same price, over triple the amount.
-It really doesn't matter what brand tools you get. So long as you get the right tools. A piece of metal is peice of metal. Hell, I use a safety pin to sculpt currently. However, the GW is an alright price and probably the easiest to find unless you can find a multi-tool set at your LGS.

-Scultpting Tips:

-Work gradually. If your working on something with more mass, build on top of your already cured GS.
-Keep water nearby to help with smoothing and sculpting and work with relative wet fingers and tools to avoid fingerprints.
-Dipping freshly mixed GS in warm/hot water for a few seconds can help soften it more for easier sculpting.
-And as with most modeling tools and such, be patient! GS can be challenging and a bit frustrating to start with, but once you get the hang of it, its pretty awesome.

Use milltput if you want something hard.
Also keep a thing of water by to dip tools in. If you use your painting water then refill before you paint.
Get a flat surface to roll on.

Thanks for the advice.

Lots more threads of advice to be found if you search, a bit - plenty of people have had trouble with sculpting, myself included. For all the reading up I did, though, nothing was as helpful as just mucking around with the stuff. GS is an odd material, so even if you have sculpted before using other mediums, there's still a bit of a learning curve.

Aside from "practice, practice, practice," the most useful pieces of advice I've found are:

-lubrication - Keep your fingers damp, keep your tools damp. Smoothing is nigh impossible without lubrication, but even simple shaping work becomes hellish if your putty forms peaks and strings every time you pull away from it.

-patience - Take your time. Work bit by bit, preferably on distant areas of the model with plenty of room to grip it, elsewhere. Nothing is worse than pushing ahead, only to realize you've replaced your recent masterpiece with a big, green thumbprint. Using a low heat source can help speed up curing, but let it do its work before you go diving in again.

-layers - Perhaps an element of patience, it's important to work in layers for large and/or complex forms. Doing so is about the only way to really work the surface without mushing the underlying forms around, destroying their basic shape. It's possible to apply and work miniscule amounts of GS, but basic shapes can be made slightly undersized, if you're worried about scale creep.

-consistency - Remember that GS is a two-part putty, resin and catalyst. By varying the ratio of blue and green, or by adding other putties, you can tweak its properties. More blue results in a firmer mix, good for maintaining smooth transitions while blocking out shapes. More yellow results in a stickier, softer mix that, while requiring more lubrication to comfortably work, allows for more extreme manipulation in detail sculpting. Adding Brownstuff or Milliput firms up the cured result, allowing it to be better carved and sanded into harder edges.*

*note - I have yet to mess with this, myself, but it's well-established knowledge. I can personally vouch for the blue-yellow manipulation, at least.

Three things. First on lubrication: water is handy preventing stuff sticking when you don't want gs to stick but if you want to do some detail work (like hair or chainmail) you need better lubrication. I personally use cooking oil.

water:
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2010/9/30/143801_md-Marine%20Abuse%2C%20Orks%2C%20Ultramarines%2C%20Warboss.jpg

cooking oil (fifth pic, burna with grey hair):
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2012/2/12/328777_md-.jpg

You can how water based lubrication caused small lumps to appear but with oil based this doesn't happen.

Second clay shapers GET THEM. Working with gs is 100 times easier but they don't replace knives and other sculpting tool.

Third liquid green stuff is great way to smooth out rough greenstuffing so get it.