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Army Painter has a Chainmail spray paint can, which is too light in my opinion.

Are there any darker color silver spray paints out there closer to boltgun?

if you use the chainmail and then drybrush bolt gun you would get similar looking effect

Rust-oleum makes a charcoal metallic that is really close to gunmetal.

ink wash after chainmail perhap?

get an airbrush? Solves every base coating problem there is.

The alternative being use Badab Black over chainmail and voila!

Aerethan wrote:The alternative being use Badab Black over chainmail and voila!

Would be my first guess too.

or go to your local walmart/car auto shop and see if you can find a good silver there, Audi has a nice midrange silver and I think Ford has one thats very close to gunmetal.

Aerethan wrote:get an airbrush? Solves every base coating problem there is.

I don't do any fancy painting and I don't do tons of painting either (starting up a second army a GK/henchmen army, but after that I won't be going crazy), would an airbrush be worth it?

The alternative being use Badab Black over chainmail and voila!

Yeah that is the simple solution but then I use tons of wash. But maybe that is the easiest / quickest way.


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Ribon Fox wrote:Audi has a nice midrange silver and I think Ford has one thats very close to gunmetal.

templarboy wrote:Rust-oleum makes a charcoal metallic that is really close to gunmetal.

Thanks guys. Have you used these before on models? Have you applied washes to them, or painted over sections? I ask because a long time ago I bought some random krylon metallic paint (on a a lark, no one recommended it) and when I tested it washes behaved very strangley on it - so much so that using that paint on models was out of the question. Which is funny, because Krylon primer is fantastic imho/.

If you don't plan on painting a long time, an airbrush isn't worth the money. The wash will be the easiest method without finding the exact shade of silver spray paint you want, which may not happen at all.

I meant I don't plan on having like 5 armies. I have 1 and a half now lol, but plan on settling on two, and the first one is almost all done, and once I glue and paint a bunch of vehicles I will be pretty much done with the second. Sure here and there I may buy and paint another model or unit, but if starting 6 months from now after my 2 armies are prety much complete, if I only paint 10 models a year, would an airbrush be worth it? I don't know.

I am not super picky on the shade, I just know the Army Painter spray paint is too light by a good amount. If anyone has used Rust-oleum metallics or Audi or Ford, I'd like to know what people think - their coverage, if the spray is fine and doesn't obscure detail, if washes work on them, stuff like that.

Yeap, my IG re all primed with car black primmer and as for the slivers I used then on my NX-01


Not the gratest of photos I know but you can see th slivers

I have a can of Boltgun spray (90% full!) GW put out like 10 years ago... If you're near NJ/NYC I'll be willing to sell/trade it

Ribon Fox, what silver spray did you use in those pictures? And were you able to easily paint over and wash sections of it?

Joe Mama wrote:Ribon Fox, what silver spray did you use in those pictures? And were you able to easily paint over and wash sections of it?

Lets see if I remember as its been about 5 years scince I started the old girl.
I sprayed every thing (save the glass bits) with a black aluminium primmer (that stuff sticks to any thing), then spryed it with the dark silver, I think that was the Ford colour (best check when you in the store,) masked off the aztecing the sprayed an mid sliver which was probably the Audi one and more aztecing, finished off with a bright steel which I think was a Rover colour.
As for painting and washes never had a prblem my self, if any thing being an enamle base coat it stops those little chips happing little bit better.

Oh, so they are enamel? Painting GW acrylics on top of an enamel works ok? And washes too?




PS - Trying to search through old threads - seems like a couple of people like Tamiya Light Gun Metal spray, which seems to be an acrylic. Anyone use that/?

If you only paint 10 models a year, an airbrush is likely not worth it.

I find mine invaluable for things like batch base coating and painting tanks or large models.

For some reason I am afraid of using spray paint enamels, which is why I am leaning towards the acrylic spray option (like that Tamiya one I found). Is that crazy of me, does it even matter if it is enamel or acrylic?

Joe Mama wrote:For some reason I am afraid of using spray paint enamels, which is why I am leaning towards the acrylic spray option (like that Tamiya one I found). Is that crazy of me, does it even matter if it is enamel or acrylic?

Maybe.

Some Enamel paints will react with some plastics, which can result in anything from 'burning' the color into the model to just melting the whole thing.

I see hundreds of 'it melted my model' stories, and I've never melted one myself, so I can't give exacts, but enamels have a higher instance of story than experimental cleaners, and less stories than known evil cleaners (like MDK).

Bounty wrote:

Joe Mama wrote:For some reason I am afraid of using spray paint enamels, which is why I am leaning towards the acrylic spray option (like that Tamiya one I found). Is that crazy of me, does it even matter if it is enamel or acrylic?

Maybe.

Some Enamel paints will react with some plastics, which can result in anything from 'burning' the color into the model to just melting the whole thing.

I see hundreds of 'it melted my model' stories, and I've never melted one myself, so I can't give exacts, but enamels have a higher instance of story than experimental cleaners, and less stories than known evil cleaners (like MDK).

Never in just under 20 years have I had a problem with the auto car spary, stripping the paint off now thats a whole other thread