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Made in us
Willing Inquisitorial Excruciator






Utah

So I'm working on a model with a clear plastic bit, which I'm going to light. I'll be putting a coat of varnish over it (I'm thinking matt varnish) to diffuse the light a bit, but I also need to tint it red. Not strait up PAINT it red, the light needs to come through, but tint it.

My first idea was to mix in some ink with the varnish. I still have some old GW blue ink, which is very transparent, and I'm wondering if a red ink would have the same effect, though the ink I saw at the art store didn't seem nearly as transparent.

Or would just mixing in some red gore or blood red with the varnish tint it without making it too opaque? I know red is already a fairly transparent paint.

Anyone had any experience doing something like this? I just really don't want to accidentally hide the lights, especially when I spent so much time on the strobe circuit.

My Armies: 1347 1500 1500
My Necron Nihilakh Dynasty blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/416131.page 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran



Upper East Side of the USA

Some company makes a clear red paint, I don't know if it was testator;s or tamiya, but the product is out there.

   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





USA

Future Floor Polish + Paint = Clear Colored Coat

   
Made in us
Boosting Black Templar Biker





I like the future/paint idea. Military modelers use future to clear coat plane canopies. I might alao try it with ink as well.

 
   
Made in au
Chaplain with Hate to Spare






Tamiya clear red will work, it's designed for painting models that have transparent coloured brake lights and so forth, it should suit you spot on.

Flesh Eaters 4,500 points


" I will constantly have those in my head telling me how lazy and ugly and whorish I am. You sir, are a true friend " - KingCracker

"Nah, I'm just way too lazy to stand up so I keep sitting and paint" - Sigur

"I think the NMM technique with metals is just MNMM. Same sound I make while eating a good pizza" - Whalemusic360 
   
Made in us
Willing Inquisitorial Excruciator






Utah

Great to have so much input, thanks everybody.

My Armies: 1347 1500 1500
My Necron Nihilakh Dynasty blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/416131.page 
   
Made in us
Wicked Canoptek Wraith





Missouri

riplikash wrote:So I'm working on a model with a clear plastic bit, which I'm going to light. I'll be putting a coat of varnish over it (I'm thinking matt varnish) to diffuse the light a bit, but I also need to tint it red. Not strait up PAINT it red, the light needs to come through, but tint it.

My first idea was to mix in some ink with the varnish. I still have some old GW blue ink, which is very transparent, and I'm wondering if a red ink would have the same effect, though the ink I saw at the art store didn't seem nearly as transparent.

Or would just mixing in some red gore or blood red with the varnish tint it without making it too opaque? I know red is already a fairly transparent paint.

Anyone had any experience doing something like this? I just really don't want to accidentally hide the lights, especially when I spent so much time on the strobe circuit.


At my Local Hobby Shop they have a paint that comes in multiple colors for "Clear Glass". I have seen Amber, red, Smokey, blue...If anythign goto the LHS and look in the paints. Car dealers will sometimes use them to use on a clear lens for vehicles.

Duct tape turns 'No! No! No!' into 'Mmm. Mmm. Mmm.

3000 pts - Iron Warriors. Shelfed.
2000 pts - New Army
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Made in gb
Rotting Sorcerer of Nurgle





Portsmouth UK

I would go for the Tamiya clear red too.
It's also great for blood splatters!

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Also I've started taking photos to use as reference for weathering which can be found here. Please send me your photos so they can be found all in one place!! 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





USA

The tamyia is nice, but it needs to be airbrushed, if you don't have an airbrush, the future is a better route.

Ashton

   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





New Jersey, USA

Alternitly just use a red LED to light whatever it is your lighting.


 
   
Made in us
Willing Inquisitorial Excruciator






Utah

I actually am using red LEDs, but I want to to look good when not lit.

My Armies: 1347 1500 1500
My Necron Nihilakh Dynasty blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/416131.page 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





New Jersey, USA

riplikash wrote:I actually am using red LEDs, but I want to to look good when not lit.


Your going to run into two problems.

1 - Its going to enhance any brush strokes or irregulaites in whatever your shining it through.

2 - Your going to loose alot of intensity, you'd actually be better off using a white LED


 
   
Made in us
Willing Inquisitorial Excruciator






Utah

Yeah, I had considered the intensity issue. Maybe I will swap out the red for the white LED's. I have enough lying around.

I'm not too worried about the irregularities issue. I use an airbrush and my current plan is to a) cover it with a matt varnish to diffuse the light and b) stick some teased out cotton in to further diffuse the light (a trick I saw used in some other models.

Any other ideas are always appreciated.

My Armies: 1347 1500 1500
My Necron Nihilakh Dynasty blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/416131.page 
   
Made in us
Privateer





The paint dungeon, Arizona

Keep an eye out for cheapie stuff at the store that comes in plastic packaging in the color you want. Plastic soda bottles come in all sorts of colors, and so do plastic plates and disposable cups(which can be useful for all sorts of other hobby tasks!)
   
Made in us
[ARTICLE MOD]
Huge Hierodule






North Bay, CA

Gunze Sangyo makes a line of aqueous hobby colors that works very nicely. They paint up a little glossy and I used to use them to paint all of my mech cockpits and skaven poison gas balls.

   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






I've seen folks use Pledge Future liquid floor polish with food coloring to get a tremendous looking tint to canopies.

When people ask me, "How do you build your army?"
I tell them its "The ten-zero factor, coolness ten, combat effectiveness... zero."

Founder, From the Warp
A blog dedicated to modeling and painting in the 40k universe 
   
Made in us
Willing Inquisitorial Excruciator






Utah

Ok, that is a pretty cool idea.

My Armies: 1347 1500 1500
My Necron Nihilakh Dynasty blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/416131.page 
   
Made in us
Willing Inquisitorial Excruciator






Utah

Just an update, I've gone with the Tamaiya gloss paint idea. If anyone is interested I can post some pictures of the results.

My Armies: 1347 1500 1500
My Necron Nihilakh Dynasty blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/416131.page 
   
 
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