Switch Theme:

Sprayprimer - How do I stop paint covering areas to be bonded?  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in au
Waaagh! Warbiker





Australia

I'm currently in the middle of painting my AoBR Boyz, and I've purcahsed a can of Chaos Black to help make priming faster and easier. Unfortunately, my first few candidates have emerged with their arm and neck joints covered with paint, and I have to file it off on each boy - sometimes, that's not feasible and other parts of the model may be in the way.
It has occoured to me that covering the areas to be bonded with some blu-tack would help, but I don't have nearly enough to throw away after the primer gets into it.
How does Dakka solve this particular problem?


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Oh bum, I've gone and posted in the wrong subforum. How do I get the thread moved?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/03/27 01:39:18


- 450 points
- 605 points

I do free graphic design! PM me your request.
DS:90SG+M--B--I+Pw40k(5)11--D-A/hWD-R+T(M)DM+ 
   
Made in us
[DCM]
Tilter at Windmills






Manchester, NH

I may be a heathen, but I just glue over it sometimes. or just scrape a bit with the side of my hobby knife.

Adepticon 2015: Team Tourney Best Imperial Team- Team Ironguts, Adepticon 2014: Team Tourney 6th/120, Best Imperial Team- Cold Steel Mercs 2, 40k Championship Qualifier ~25/226
More 2010-2014 GT/Major RTT Record (W/L/D) -- CSM: 78-20-9 // SW: 8-1-2 (Golden Ticket with SW), BA: 29-9-4 6th Ed GT & RTT Record (W/L/D) -- CSM: 36-12-2 // BA: 11-4-1 // SW: 1-1-1
DT:70S++++G(FAQ)M++B++I+Pw40k99#+D+++A+++/sWD105R+++T(T)DM+++++
A better way to score Sportsmanship in tournaments
The 40K Rulebook & Codex FAQs. You should have these bookmarked if you play this game.
The Dakka Dakka Forum Rules You agreed to abide by these when you signed up.

Maelstrom's Edge! 
   
Made in gb
Ork Boy Hangin' off a Trukk






In ur base, sniping ur doodz

Blu-Tac or masking tape, depending on the size of the area you need.
I'd go with Blu-Tac on anything smaller than a tank

Aquaterry


"Insert witty comment here..."
My Project Log, now with extra randomness!
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/356017.page 
   
Made in us
Been Around the Block





Bremerton, WA

I scrape the joints with my knife. I don't worry if I miss a bit of paint; plastic adhesive (not superglue or epoxy or any other adhesive, but actual plastic adhesive) tends to melt most paints on contact.
   
Made in us
Speedy Swiftclaw Biker






+1 to blue tac

   
Made in us
Krazed Killa Kan






State of Jefferson

I don't have any problem with my glue not sticking after I spray prime, but I use Krylon...


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Oh and i have 100 boys and 20 of them are AoBR and I dipped them and store in a ziplock. No breaks... no chips

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/03/27 05:35:43


 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





ware

Blu tack as a mask and afterwards put it in a ball and stretch it continually and stick it back to itself. It will warm up get real soft and sticky and the paint should fall out of the blu tak. Blu tack is a great cleaning product and is self cleaning

Frag wrote:who needs guns when you have grenades hanging by your nuts?
 
   
Made in us
Krazed Killa Kan






State of Jefferson

still think that acryl-cyanate-glues will work fine over primer
   
Made in au
Waaagh! Warbiker





Australia

Kizmet wrote:Blu tack as a mask and afterwards put it in a ball and stretch it continually and stick it back to itself. It will warm up get real soft and sticky and the paint should fall out of the blu tak. Blu tack is a great cleaning product and is self cleaning


It is? Brilliant, thanks a lot. I'll get to using Blu-Tack right away.

- 450 points
- 605 points

I do free graphic design! PM me your request.
DS:90SG+M--B--I+Pw40k(5)11--D-A/hWD-R+T(M)DM+ 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





As doktor_g said, you could use super glue to glue the models together after priming with no issues.

Perhaps not the best application of the technique on your AoBR boyz, but in future modelling/painting projects it can be quite usefull to create a few sub-assemblies using plastic glue, paint them seperately, and then finish by gluing together with super glue (or CA, as some people refer to it as).

A great example of this would be a standard space marine from the tactical squad box. I would glue the model together without his boltgun, then paint the boltgun and marine seperatley, then superglue the boltgun onto the marine when everything else is done.

I am currently taking commissions.

http://www.facebook.com/EastgatePaintingStudio
 
   
Made in gb
Rotting Sorcerer of Nurgle





Portsmouth UK

If you are gluing plastic models with plastic glue the glue will disolve the paint & get to the plastic without too much bother.
Use decent plastic glue = no problems.
Otherwise, use blu tak.

Check out my gallery here
Also I've started taking photos to use as reference for weathering which can be found here. Please send me your photos so they can be found all in one place!! 
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

I've never seen paint "fall out of" poster tac (I can only imagine that happening with an incredibly thick buildup), but it does certainly get broken up and redistributed enough to effectively disappear, after a bit of kneading. I've primed about 30-40 models, using black spray, masking with the same small wad of tac and it hasn't even darkened appreciably. Besides, when it does eventually wear out, you're not exactly buying gold bullion.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in us
Been Around the Block





Bremerton, WA

One final thing here: for those that glue over the primer with any glue that's not solvent based, understand that your joint is only as strong as its weakest link. If you're using an adhesive over primer, the primer layer is now part of the bond. Is it strong enough? In my experience, no, particularly with metal or resin. This works in the short term when gluing light plastic pieces together but I don't personally use anything other than plastic adhesive in this case anyway...it's what it was made for, after all.

I was reading a thread last night where a guy professed to spending hours painting each face. If he can do that, I can spend a minute cleaning up a few flat surfaces on my models to ensure that they don't fall apart later. It seems like cheap insurance to me.
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: