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SM Jump Packs have that interesting crack on the sides and back where the two pieces meet. Back in the day, my reaction was to ignore it and run with it. I am working on some new figures now, and I want to do them (and the packs) right. For me, that means at least sealing the rounded part on the side. I think the top intake section looks fine/better with the line/gap. And I'd like to seal the back vent crack, but feel like it would be more work than worth it. Have any of you come across this issue, and what have you done? I think I'll be using greenstuff, since some of the gaps are rather large. Thanks for your time!

Would GW's new Liquid Greenstuff work well for filling the gaps?

I use regular greenstuff. I haven't tried the liquid version, but I've read mixed reviews on how well it works on the JP's due to size. Greenstuff may take longer but you will be sure to get the gap filled.

My vote is on regular green stuff, I used the liquid and as it dries it recedes back into the cracks, so it takes several coats.

I've had great results using the liquid green stuff specifically on the cracks in jump packs. I just put a moderate amount over making sure to get some directly in the crack. Once dry I used a fine file and smoothed it down. Once you prime you wont even be able to tell. I also found the liquid green stuff to be much quicker than the regular stuff, obviously.

heh, your post is very timely because I just struggled with this same issue myself last week

the most important lesson I learned is to do all your filing first, before you start filling the gaps. the more everything lines up before you start, the easier it is to make it flush with whatever filler you want to use. on a side note, green stuff doesn't take well to filing so that's another reason to do your filing first.

liquid green stuff might work ok for the narrow cracks in the sides of the thrusters (after filing them down, of course). when I tried it on bigger gaps, like on the top side, the gaps were still very obvious even after 3 layers. I found that it was hard to get a smooth surface with liquid GS; it doesn't have the same workability that regular green stuff does, so you can't take a smoothing tool to it. it does take better to scraping with a knife, though, unlike regular GS.

I also tried using PVA glue to fill the larger gaps after seeing someone else mention it, but that didn't work out so well. I think if you were super careful about squirting it just into the gaps and wiping off all the excess, it might work after a couple layers. I just brushed it on over the whole area, which wasn't the best way to apply it. on the plus side, if you don't like the end result it peels right off

I ended up using regular GS to fill all the gaps (I did everything - tops, sides, inside thrusters, etc). the first attempt was pretty bad, but after getting some very helpful advice from dakka I got results that I'm fairly happy with for a first try

varl wrote:the most important lesson I learned is to do all your filing first, before you start filling the gaps. the more everything lines up before you start, the easier it is to make it flush with whatever filler you want to use.

I would not have thought of it, but that is a great idea. I've meddled with greenstuff before, and have various filing things that would make it behave, but why cause extra work?

varl wrote:I ended up using regular GS to fill all the gaps (I did everything - tops, sides, inside thrusters, etc). the first attempt was pretty bad, but after getting some very helpful advice from dakka I got results that I'm fairly happy with for a first try

When you filled the top, did you completely wipe out that "indented line" (the one that reminds me of the top of a dread, no real better name for it haha)? And did you like it overall better with all the sides sealed?

I find that using Plastic glue can fill any small cracks. Becasue it melts the plastic slightly, when you put the two pieces together it seems to 'plug' the space. For larger gaps i would agree with the above and go for greenstuff be it liquid or otherwise.

@npcmaster: yeah, I filled in the top part so that it's completely flush (or as close to it as I could get :p). I was torn, because the gap looks like it's an intended part of the design, but it's just so huge between the two parts. if it was a tighter fit, I'd have probably left it as-is.

I've only applied primer so far, but I think they came out all right. if nothing else, they'll look different from everyone else's I'll try to remember to post up some picks after work and you can be the judge

DiabolicAl wrote:I find that using Plastic glue can fill any small cracks. Becasue it melts the plastic slightly, when you put the two pieces together it seems to 'plug' the space. For larger gaps i would agree with the above and go for greenstuff be it liquid or otherwise.

Here is what I do, I take the clipper, and clip off the length needed ( off any unused plastic sprue )
If you clip the sprue at an angle, the plastic piece will have an wedge.

Then you simply put the wedge piece into the crack, and it'll stay + melt into 1 solid piece if you use plastic cement.

Simply trim it off once dry same way you trim a mold line.

Strong, simple, 100% effective.

here's what I ended up with:



it's not a perfect job by any means, but my hope is that once I have paint on (black, in my case, which is rather convenient :p) seeing any of the original indentation will be pretty tough.

Isn't the crack in the middle detail or something? I paint boltgun on the other half where the grills are. Other than that varl that is a very clean looking job right there!

That's some nice work Varl! I think I am going to seal up all but the top detail. I do know what you mean though, some of the gaps on that particular section can be ridiculous. I am going to try super thin super glue (or maybe just the regular thick stuff) to close the gap without completely wiping out the detail. But the sides look very good without the line, I had been debating that detail and now I know I'll post my pics once I actually work on them, I am assembling all my marines first (so I can mass produce the packs assembly line style)

thanks I finished painting up the first jump pack this morning (only did one so I could test out the color scheme). I'll try to remember to post up some pics when I get home tonight.

Check out AwesomePaintJob on YouTube, has a video for filling in gaps, and would be cheaper then green stuff.

How to Fill Simple Gaps by Lester Bursley - that's the title for the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6EXgtoakys4&feature=plcp

@darkknights44: I came across that video while I was researching this problem. it's a perfect solution for the big gap on the top of the jump pack and maybe the narrow gaps on the sides, but since you have to file down the surface after the baking soda dries it doesn't seem suitable for the gaps inside the thrusters; not enough room to get a file in there. still a pretty slick tool, though

I just left them personally, but i was toying with the idea of squadron green putty, what darkknights said though, thats new to me, simple and effective nice tip

there's also the 2nd jump pack, which is one piece.

What you want in a putty is:

Swift and easy to dispense in small amounts.

Easy to work into the crack and remove from the surrounding surface.

Dries quickly.

Can be sanded for smoothing down when dry.

Green Stuff is bad at all those things.

A one-tube product such as Tamiya Putty or Squadron Putty is much more useful.

If you want to be hardcore, buy an automobile filling product such as 3M Acryl-Green, and cut it with lacquer thinners (cellulose thinners) to get different consistencies of putty.

right, so here's how things came out after getting paint on (forgive the shiny black; I haven't sprayed it down with matte yet):



you can see some areas where I didn't get the GS entirely smooth and where it peeled away from the surface along the edges as it dried, but not horrible for a first effort. it was a royal pain in the arse, though, and I don't look forward to repeating the effort :p I think I'll try out squardon putty like kilkrazy suggested the next time I have need to deal with this.

I grabbed some of the Squadron Putty white today. I hadn't used those metal tubes in a while, and forgot that the quite literally poop out some of the initial pressure when first opened. Thankfully I had some spare paper nearby and now i am testing the feel of it before I jump into the packs. Progress on my figures has stalled since I am now waiting for a few pieces to come in, but I will post my results once I do. I expect the second wave of work to happen in about a week or so.

I just finished filling gaps on 10 jump packs last night (using green stuff). 3 of them were from the Death Company box and it's amazing how much nicer they fit together over regular assault marine JPs. It's like night and day.

or you can get the FC backpacks from the vangaurds. they have amazing details on top

got a link to those, dijnsk?