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Hey so my brother and i are working on a Imperial Guard Vulture. He was using zap-a-gap to glue the metal casing to the clear canopy and got a lot of glue on the clear part. Now it is foggy and has a lot of residue on it, its kind of translucent now in areas. Is there an easy way to remove this with some sort of solution?

Thanks for any suggestions in advance!

Not as far as I know. Sorry.
This happened alot to me back in the day when I used to make Airfix stuff.
To put it bluntly, you screwed up.

Thanks for the response, that's dissapointing lol

You might be able to take toothpick, snap one end of it off, and then use the jagged end of it as sort of a stiff bristled brush to scrape the 'frosting' off. It's not perfect, and it depends upon how badly marred up it is, but it's helped for me in the past. The easiest thing for the future would be simply to use PVA glue on the cockpit parts.

But take heart, you still have the canopie, use it to make a template. Then make a new one from flat clear plastic, like the stuff used for mouthwash bottles ie

The only real way to do it is to take fine grit sandpaper and buff out the frosted section. However, it is far easier to buy a replacement from eBay or one of the many bitz services.

WAIT!

If you take a find grit sandpaper and sand down the crappy super-glue, THEN clear coat the area (gloss, high-gloss, whatever) with something that is really thin. It runs into the crevices, and keeps it clear.

Worked great on my watch-face when I scratched it up, then took clear nail polish to it, should work just fine for this application as well.

Therefor: Ymmv

I like the sound of the sandpaper idea. That's hepful. Any idea HOW fine it has to be to work?

I wanna say 120, but I know that's all I have on hand.
220 is probably good, a little higher could be better as well, but that's unfamiliar territory to me, so I'm unsure.

fenrir1997 wrote:I wanna say 120, but I know that's all I have on hand.
220 is probably good, a little higher could be better as well, but that's unfamiliar territory to me, so I'm unsure.

220 up to 600 )220 then 400 then 500 then 600) sand up and down with the first, left to right with the second, up and down with 3 and so on...

Computer case modders use silver polish to buff scratches out of the clear plexiglass they use for the "windows" into the cases - and I have used it to buff the "rippleprint" off a Mac plexiglass casing (shipped inside a pvc baggie - the pvc and plexiglass bond on contact, leaving raised areas where they touched).

I would try fine sandpaper and some nail polish varnish afterwords. At this point what do you have to loose. Another thing you could try is buffing the plastic with a very soft steel wool and some ethyl alcohol. Last resort cut out the ruined clear plastic, leaving the frame intact and replace the plastic squares with some found clear plastic (ie. the listerine bottle listed above).

I think I have some sheet plastic laying around. I will do an experiment later and see which method works the best. If anyone has any other ideas list them so I can check them also.