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I'm looking to start painting with oils on my next army, nurgle daemons for WHFB.
Any suggestions for moving to oils from acrylics?
I've heard wait a couple of days between coats and use synthetic brushes.
Also I heard use Winsor Newton Artists water soluble oils.
Any other tips?
For minis if you are planning on doing washes you need to get Winsor Newtons 'Artist' level paints (the 15$ ones), not the student or hobby level. The lower to mid range paints are too grainy, and will seperate. Yes, oil painting is EXPENSIVE!
I don't know about using the water soluble oils though. I much prefer thinner as a medium. It has almost zero surface tension and allows for some really cool washes, linings, and filters.
But you don't HAVE to choose between one or the older. Most model pointers who use oil will do as much as they can in acrylics (which are much cheaper and easier to work with), seal the model with some Future Floor Polish, then start in on the oil paints.
Automatically Appended Next Post: Also, as cleaning the brushes can be a bit of a pain, and you don't want to dump your thinner every every time, consider getting a brush cleaning tank. I have a Silicoil brush cleaning tank, and it made my life much easier.
This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2012/06/13 20:28:51
Although I don't work in oil or acrylic, this topic has my interest piqued. Could you provide a link to some models that have been done in this medium so I can see what all the fuss is about?
Breotan wrote:Although I don't work in oil or acrylic, this topic has my interest piqued. Could you provide a link to some models that have been done in this medium so I can see what all the fuss is about?
Thanks.
If you paint minis and you aren't using testors (or in some cases even if you are) you are likely using acrylics.
Oils:
Avatar 720 wrote: You see, to Auston, everyone is a Death Star; there's only one way you can take it and that's through a small gap at the back.
Powder Burns wrote:what they need to make is a fullsize leatherman, like 14" long folded, with a bone saw, notches for bowstring, signaling flare, electrical hand crank generator, bolt cutters..
There is an article in the dakka article section with a collection of mini tutorials, links and suggestions for using oil paints. Click on my article edits link to the left under my avatar and then go onto the painting with oils link
Woops. I thinking enamels not acrylics, which goes to show that I've no idea what I'm talking about here. Guess it's time to stop drinking the retarder.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/06/14 13:33:07
I love it, my first experience with painting an army (Tau) was with oils and it didn't go so well (I was not skilled AT ALL at painting at the time) and this inspires me to maybe try it on some power weapons.
Again, just start small. You don't have to oil paint the entire model. Oil paint washes and scrubs simply can't be beat, nor can oil paint power weapons. Just varnish over acrylic pain job (again, Future Floor Polish works GREAT for this) and start into the oil effects.
SoloFalcon1138 wrote:Yes, but neither are good media for this kind of work...
Oils have been used in historical model painting for years - try and find any historical model painted to any kind of good quality that only uses acrylics. Oils are used for all sorts of weathering techniques if nothing else.
Powder Burns wrote:what they need to make is a fullsize leatherman, like 14" long folded, with a bone saw, notches for bowstring, signaling flare, electrical hand crank generator, bolt cutters..