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Weathering, goodbad? How can I improve? Is the base good or should I change it?  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
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Made in us
Rough Rider with Boomstick





United States

ALright, so after nearly everyone said I should weather my models, I have begrudgingly decided to weather them. Problem is, I am not sure the right colors and techvique to use based on my current model bases. Ill throw a picture up of my models' bases, a rhino that I did a trial of weathering on, and a pic of one of my three LRs. Thanks in advance for the tips!

The model bases are medium sized bassalt rocks that are blacked glued on and then drybrush of codex grey over the top of the rocks. The rhino I used codex grey as the "dirt" and drybrushed some gunmetal on the edges. Any advice for weathering and/or base improvement is great. I am satisfied with the base, but I know some people don't like it.
[Thumb - 101_2834.JPG]
Pedro Kantor With his base

[Thumb - 101_2838.JPG]
Rhino with codex grey "dirt" and gunmetal "scratches"

[Thumb - 101_2840.JPG]
one of my LRs.


Resin Printer (minaitures) is a 4K printer with one of the largest build volumes available for a resin printer (192mm x 120mm x 245mm) with an amazing .01mm resolution! This professional printer is one of the best resin printers on the market!

FDM Printer (terrain) also has one of the largest build volumes available for an FDM printer (400mm x 400mm x 450mm) and has an amazing ,05mm build accuracy.
 
   
Made in gb
Avatar of the Bloody-Handed God






Inside your mind, corrupting the pathways

Put your models on a surface with good lighting (if you don't have any lamps, use a window sill with some nice sunlight). Also try putting your camera on the surface to reduce camera shake and if it has one, use the macro button (shaped like a flower) for taking pictures of small objects.

However, if you are looking to weather stuff, it is a good idea to start small and subtle - from the looks of your rhino (from what I can tell) you have kind of just coated a lot of the tank in grey paint. Your best bet is to work on small scratches first, working up to large areas of dirt and dust etc once you get confident in where weathering will be occuring, and have a better idea of the effects you want to achieve.

As for weathering tutorials, check out this site: http://tutofig.com/?s=weathering - compiles vast numbers of tutorials onto one site.

But for basic scratches, dents and chips, paint a small area of your metal colour (for example gunmetal), then touch up the top edge with a slightly darker version of your base colour (so it looks like it is shadowed), then do the bottom edge in a slightly lighter version so it looks like it is catching the light.

You can go further and use another colour layer to represent the "primer" sprayed on before top coat is added using the same method (ie if your tanks are blue, you might have a kaki primer underneath, so use a dark kaki on the top of the chip, and a lighter version on the bottom of the chip).

   
Made in au
Lady of the Lake






Might want to fix up those first two pictures a little. Still I enjoy seeing your scheme. It's simplistic, but stands out and reminds me of these.


   
Made in us
Rough Rider with Boomstick





United States

Ya, I know the first two are horrid, but my camera has autofocus and it is crappy close up, I need a new one. Anyway, thanks for the tips.

Resin Printer (minaitures) is a 4K printer with one of the largest build volumes available for a resin printer (192mm x 120mm x 245mm) with an amazing .01mm resolution! This professional printer is one of the best resin printers on the market!

FDM Printer (terrain) also has one of the largest build volumes available for an FDM printer (400mm x 400mm x 450mm) and has an amazing ,05mm build accuracy.
 
   
 
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