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Ok so i've finally decided to paint my Space Hulk Genestealers up. I want to paint them an icey blue colour but like the fool i am i primed them in black. I've let them soak in simple green for a week and the primer hasnt budged.

Does anyone know how to remove primer? Or alternatively does anyone have a good guide for painting ice blue over a black undercoat?

A spray paint or airbrush basecoat of a white or light gray (or your ice blue if you can find it) should be able to cover the black enough to start painting normally. As long as you lay down thin coats, you won't obscure the details.

iceblue over an black undercoat?? use a light foundation paint (like astronomicon grey) or one of the new citadel base paints

What works for moi, is soaking the models in brake fluid, Im not sure if its supposed to chemically act the same as simple green but it worked for me

Thanks for the replies guys. I might give the foundation method a try since ive got that astro gray kicking about somewhere.

Cheers.

Bwolf999 wrote:What works for moi, is soaking the models in brake fluid, Im not sure if its supposed to chemically act the same as simple green but it worked for me

Brake fluid is a good way to melt plastic models

http://www.walmart.com/ip/LA-s-Totally-Awesome-All-Purpose-Concentrated-Cleaner-32-oz/20608085

buy some of this. It is the best chemical to strip plastic models on the market today. It took different army paint scheme's off of my marines in less than 6 hours. Remember though, the more models you put into the chemical, the weaker it gets over time, so it might take 2 soakings if you put alot in there.

Thanks for the input Gunn. Im not sure we can get that LAs stuff in Oz though. I've looked but never seen at any supermarket or specialist shop before.

If any fellow Aussies have seen this stuff or know where to get it, give us a hoi coz i'd love to get my hands on some.

Here is what I do. I pretty much use black primer for all mine. After sprayed I dry brush white over the model to show all the detail. After that I use all sorts of light colors and the difference between the black base and white gives a good blend when dry brushing colors over it. All of my Deathwing started out in black primer. Then I dry brushed and ivory and then white over that. The black behind helps the shadowing. And they are bright. Hope this helps so you don't lose some models by using a stripper that will melt them away. Good Luck.

I use Brake fluid on plastics.

It's important to get the right KIND OF fluid.

Do not get Brake CLEANER.
Do not get Dot4 brake fluid.

I use dot3 "brake and transmission fluid" from Kmart - ( it runs in the hydraulic lines for the brakes/tranny, not used to clean the pads/shoes) on plastics from RT vintage (1988 plastics) through to current stuff with no ill effects. I can only get SG by going for a 30-40 minute drive*, whereas brake fluid can be got in any one of 6 nearby retailers. Also, it's easy for me to dispose of (local mechanics in street have disposal drums).

Since people seem to need this stuff explained to them (ie: Hot water is HOT!): WEAR GLOVES whiles using it. WEAR GOGGLES/EYE protection (I wear glasses anyway, so a drop-down faceshield works for me). This stuff is called PPE - Personal Protective Equipment and wearing it around something that might be unsafe is more than just common sense (itself in very short supply amongst gamers), it should be an automatic response. Then again, I use them whilst using Dettol (dettol sucks the moisture from your skin) but I'm regarded as "overly cautious" amongst my friends - better that than "lefty" or "one-eye".

But - I don't leave them in for an extended period. 10 minutes, then give them a scrub. I tend to do them 6 at a time (all that fits in my "killing jar"(vegemite jar, lol) and it has worked.

I can't guarantee no damage after overnight soaks, and it DOES soften resin permanently.

*Whilst Bunnings is supposed to carry it here, that will vary from area to area and store to store. My local one doesn't carry it. The nearest ones that do are in different towns and as I don't drive, going there to get it is both problematic (PT being crap or nonexistent) or takes forever.

Brake fluid is also extremely toxic. If you use it (which you shouldn't) be very careful and dispose of it properly.

If simple green and a toothbrush scrub doesn't take something off, it's not coming off, but in all likelihood its a thin enough primer layer that repriming over it isn't going to cause you any problems.

AzureDeath wrote:Here is what I do. I pretty much use black primer for all mine. After sprayed I dry brush white over the model to show all the detail. After that I use all sorts of light colors and the difference between the black base and white gives a good blend when dry brushing colors over it. All of my Deathwing started out in black primer. Then I dry brushed and ivory and then white over that. The black behind helps the shadowing. And they are bright. Hope this helps so you don't lose some models by using a stripper that will melt them away. Good Luck.

I think i might have a few spare guardsmen kicking about that i could try this on. Sounds like it would be worth messing around with just to see what kind of finished effect you come up with.

Emperor awfulness wrote:But in all likelihood its a thin enough primer layer that repriming over it isn't going to cause you any problems.

Again, a spare guardsmen will be of some use in testing and perfecting.

chromedog wrote:I use Brake fluid on plastics.

It's important to get the right KIND OF fluid.

Do not get Brake CLEANER.
Do not get Dot4 brake fluid.

I use dot3 "brake and transmission fluid" from Kmart - ( it runs in the hydraulic lines for the brakes/tranny, not used to clean the pads/shoes) on plastics from RT vintage (1988 plastics) through to current stuff with no ill effects. I can only get SG by going for a 30-40 minute drive, whereas brake fluid can be got in any one of 6 nearby retailers. Also, it's easy for me to dispose of (local mechanics in street)

But - I don't leave them in for an extended period. 10 minutes, then give them a scrub. I tend to do them 6 at a time (all that fits in my "killing jar"(vegemite jar, lol) and it has worked.

I can't guarantee no damage after overnight soaks, and it DOES soften resin permanently.

I would be hesitant to try something that may end up destroying them. I mean they are only genestealers when all said and done and i don't want to get all precious about them but i'd rather not risk losing them if i can help it. Infact i think you may have suggested dot3 to me before in an earlier thread Chromedog. Once again though it seems the task of testing falls to the ever numerous Imperial Guardsman.


Thanks for all the suggestions lads.