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I would suggest using a grey to go over the black. Grey is a stronger color than white, and light enough that when white goes overtop, it just look like shading
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+1 on the gray undercoat. You never want to paint white straight from the pot either. You will want to water it down and do each layer once the other has dried. If you dont wait for it to dry you will get streaks and clumps.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/07/12 20:02:41
Use Ulthuan Grey as a base, which is a grey so pale it is almost white, and then highlight up with White.
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Though this may already be in that video, haven't watched it and adding anyway.
For ceramic white use grey, cold white use blues and a warm white (such as cloth) use browns. Never make a pure white, go for an almost white. It leaves room for highlighting as it's sort of hard to get brighter if you try to highlight a pure white. In the end the highlight will make it look like proper white anyway. Basically you want close, but not too close.
Deadshot wrote:Use Ulthuan Grey as a base, which is a grey so pale it is almost white, and then highlight up with White.
If Ulthuan is the new Astronomicon, then that's my tried and tested method, as well.
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You can but a thin layer of silver on first. The silver helps counters the light absorption of the black under coat and makes a really really clean white. Also if you dry brush the silver over the black it creates highlights in the white layers.
Ulthuan Grey is almost white. The only way to prove its not would be to paint white over and compare.
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n0t_u wrote:Though this may already be in that video, haven't watched it and adding anyway.
For ceramic white use grey, cold white use blues and a warm white (such as cloth) use browns. Never make a pure white, go for an almost white. It leaves room for highlighting as it's sort of hard to get brighter if you try to highlight a pure white. In the end the highlight will make it look like proper white anyway. Basically you want close, but not too close.
In many cases I prefer pure white with a slight shade and no highlight. It doesn't look as deep as an "almost white" highlighted with pure white, but in some cases I prefer a pure white look as using an "almost white" looks more like an extremely pale grey/blue/brown rather than actual white to my eyes.
But yeah, even with Ceramite White I find it takes a good 3 or 4 coats to get a really solid white over a dark colour, maybe even more if you want it nice and smooth. People saying 2 coats must be laying it on the thick side. You need to thin Ceramite quite a bit from the pot if you don't want a grainy finish. Usually if my model has any significant amount of white on it, I just undercoat white as it's far easier to repaint other areas darker over a white undercoat than it is to paint white over a black undercoat. You can also do the "paint it grey" first trick, though honestly I find that rarely saves me any time because the grey often takes a couple of coats anyway, and then the white another couple of coats over that. If you were trying to use the old "Skull White" paint then yeah, painting grey first would definitely speed things up. But at the end of the day with the new ceramite white it might only save you 1 coat to do grey first or possibly none at all, but if you really want a solid white which doesn't look smudgy or blotchy from either black showing through or using the paint too thick, prepare to do a lot of thin coats regardless of the method you use.