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Hello,

Just a few images of an ultramarine rhino. The brushwork isn't perfect.
I also had a problem with spray which results in a grainy texture on the front
(not really visible on the photos though) and the layer of paint not looking totally sharp.
Weathering (chipping, dirt) is possible but less is sometimes more.
Overall it was a fun learning process.

C&C welcome as the vehicle (any vehicle in general) is a first for me, even though no one really cares about rhinos.

Nice clean job. The only things letting it down are the decals and perhaps not highlighting the headlight lenses (white dotting would lift it); you really must gloss before applying decals and use setting solutions. Lucky these can be overpainted pretty simply to fix the silvering, but on more complex designs that becomes less of an option.

Edit: And drill those barrels. :-p

Nice job!

Like the prior poster said, just need to pick out the headlights and at least black dots on the storm bolter barrels.

If it's a rhino dedicated to a tactical squad, maybe add some big tactical symbology across the top hatch.

I

Drill the barrels other than that and what the overs have said above it's a great job

I really like it! That's a sharp looking rhino. I agree that less is more with weathering, I think it looks fantastic the way it is.

Over all, I think it is a great paint job. As others have said, the decals detract from the otherwise smooth paint job. Also, drill that bolter and the exhaust pipes!

Black Dot the Barrels (Drilling is for if you want to put it in a competition)

The only thing i'd complain about on the inside if it was my rhino is that the searchlight's aren't painted. Other than that, very well done!

looking good. i would recommend drilling out the barrels and a mat-varnish to make the decals look better

Looks great. Wow.

Thanks for the replies. Decals should be less of an issue in the future. I'll highlight the headlights.

Can someone link me to a miniature drill or tell me what type and where to find it (I'm in the UK)? I'm guessing it's the same sort that can be used to pin feet to cork basing etc.
Cheers.

Do not expect matt varnish to hid the silvering on those decals. The effect seen here is caused by air trapped underneath the decal. There is no way to effectively get rid of it; you have to overpaint to hide it. This is the purpose of glossing the model before decalling; the smooth surface reduces the amount of air to be trapped.

For a drill, I'm still using a hobbycraft pin vice, though the GW one is perfectly servicable if you don't want to bother shopping around.

Drill bits; a hobby/model store or electronics store (maplin) carry them. You want HSS 'jobber' bits for the most part. I think these are the sizes I use:
0.75mm for very fine pinning
1mm for most pinning (paperclips work well with this diameter) and drilliing pilot holes and the 'side holes' on bolters.
1.5mm is bolter barrel diameter, side hole on heavy.
2mm is heavy bolter barrel diameter.

You may think that it's wasteful to buy a pack of several bits of each size at the same time, but the small ones especially are easy to break, especially if you have a habit of dropping your pin vice.

The headlights are fine as are. A lot of people like to paint them yellow as though they're on, it's a personal taste thing. I think the white/silver look like you've done is more realistic. You may want to think about painting the two smaller indicator lights next to the headlights though.

Next time you're in a hobby shop also have a look out for microscale products. Micro Set and Micro Sol are liquids used to soften and blend decals to give them a more painted on look.

@cadbren: Thanks for the advice. I picked up some micro set recently which should help with the ultramarine shoulders when I get to them. Micro sol would be useful and stop the silvering. I've heard vinegar can do this too but I haven't tried.

Do not expect matt varnish to hid the silvering on those decals. The effect seen here is caused by air trapped underneath the decal. There is no way to effectively get rid of it; you have to overpaint to hide it. This is the purpose of glossing the model before decalling; the smooth surface reduces the amount of air to be trapped.

For a drill, I'm still using a hobbycraft pin vice, though the GW one is perfectly servicable if you don't want to bother shopping around.

Drill bits; a hobby/model store or electronics store (maplin) carry them. You want HSS 'jobber' bits for the most part. I think these are the sizes I use:

Thanks. A drill will be useful as I'd like to try some cork basing (eg. on 40mm bases) when the project develops. I guess it's worth the effort to drill bolter holes too.