Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat470007a&prodId=prod1530007a

That one. The nozzle inside is constantly getting stuck with glue inside it and often doesnt work coz its dried.. yes, i put the cap back on straight after using it (before i even put the piece on the model that im gluing)

Is there a way to clean it out? Coz i dont wanna spend another $12, when ive still got 3/4 of this glue left :/

Remove the nozzle from the bottle.

Soak in a container of organic solvent (MEK is what I clean my capillary applicators with...but some people freak out around Methyl Ethyl Death).

Use forced air to blow out the nozzle.

Replace.

It isn't actually glue which is drying in the nozzle. That particular type of cement (or the Testor's which is identical and somewhere around half the price) is basically pure solvent. In the absence of something to dissolve - when it dries it disappears. What you have though is a bit of plastic backwash. A little of the dissolved plastic is being sucked back into the nozzle when you are using it and causing it to gum up.

http://www.testors.com/product/136633/8872C/_/Liquid_Cement_For_Plastic

http://www.testors.com/product/136633/3515CT/_/Clear_Parts_Cement___1_Oz.

http://www.testors.com/product/136636/3527C/_/Non-Toxic_Cement_Liquid_Cement

You can also unclog the nozzle simply by storing the bottle with the nozzle down for a short period of time (how long will vary based on how much gunk has gotten up in it). The cement will work its way down the nozzle dissolving what is in it.

oh wow, thats damn useful info there, thanks!

Explains why when i turn the nozzle around the other way (take it out, and put it back in other side up) it works fine..

I use the Testors in the first link and it comes with a couple of pieces of stiff wire that you can use like a ramrod to clear the nozzle of the bottle. In fact I discard the cap and just use the wire to close the bottle....haven't had the glue dry out as of yet but sometimes I misplace the wire when I'm glueing stuff together. Maybe you could do the same with the GW glue bottle.

I'll definatly have to get some then. Cheaper than buying this citadel glue in AU anyway :/


Automatically Appended Next Post:
oright. they only ship to america :(

Tamiya should be available in Oz - they don't sell direct though:

http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/list/cements/kit870S01.htm

The easiest way to unclog it is to simply heat up the nozzle, normally holding a match or cigarette lighter underneath will do it, just be careful.

StraightSilver wrote:The easiest way to unclog it is to simply heat up the nozzle, normally holding a match or cigarette lighter underneath will do it, just be careful.

Very big caution on this. You are introducing an open flame to a closed system of a flammable liquid with a very low vapor pressure. It has the potential to end badly.

Sean_OBrien wrote:

StraightSilver wrote:The easiest way to unclog it is to simply heat up the nozzle, normally holding a match or cigarette lighter underneath will do it, just be careful.

Very big caution on this. You are introducing an open flame to a closed system of a flammable liquid with a very low vapor pressure. It has the potential to end badly.

I use the revell version of this glue (same thing, same bottle etc.) and just pull the nozzle out of the bottle, flame it for a few seconds, put it back.
(no, don't snort it while doing it).
Works great.

I use the revell version of this glue (same thing, same bottle etc.) and just pull the nozzle out of the bottle, flame it for a few seconds, put it back.
(no, don't snort it while doing it).
Works great.

That's my way of clearing the nozzle on the revell stuff too - just be careful and use a pair of pliers - I found out the hard way, that the nozzle heats up like a mother in a second or two ;-)

Cheers!

Notice a specific (and important) step which you mention Dave which was not included in the original idea...

Remove the nozzle.

Should someone apply heat the the nozzle while it was still attached to the bottle - it could well lead to a miny flamer or a small incendiary device.

Take the nozzle off. Find a bit of wire of the right diameter and insert. It should push the blockage out pretty easily. No need to play with fire, or buy additional solvents. Its the benefit of the metal tube, in that the glue won't bond particualrly well to it.

my suggestion is to steer clear of ALL GW tools, utensils, glues, sand, flock and grass. GW sells crap and overprices it. You are much better off going to your local hobby shop. The same price for what GW rips you off for you can get for less, or double--or more--of the quantity elsewhere.

just get a paper clip and poke it down all the way works with my army painter glue not sure about GW glue though

Those nozzles must be huge. Granted - I haven't used that particular style in years - but the applicator that I use I would be hard pressed to run a hair through...let alone a paper clip. With the liquid cements a little goes a very long way. Don't need a fire hose to apply it.

Lots of interesting ideas. Personally I had a Testors bottle that was similar which I bought years and years ago (maybe 12+) and it actually came with a thin wire which you could shove down the nozzle to clean it out.

Naturally I lost that wire after a few years, and paper clips were vastly too thick to fit down it, but I found that some twist ties come with a metal wire down the middle of them which is quite thin and so I just tore the plastic coating off one and used that to shove down the throat to clean it out.

You can of course get some thin wire from hardware stores as well, but given that I had twist ties lying around and didn't have a hardware store lying around I used that.

That Testors bottle ran out recently and I bought a Revell one and the same method works.

None of this soaking or heating stuff, just jam some wire down there and it's good as new. I found paper clips were too thick, but it's easy to find thinner wire if you look for it.