Hardcoating help?!?

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**Chancetragedy**

Ok so as I'm sure some of you have seen the vulkan ive been posting around. Well after only a couple days of extremely light use and handling. The paint is starting to chip in places needing touchups. Now normally I wouldn't care except I've put an exhorbitant amount of time into this model so I do care.

So here's the question. I'm looking into a hardcoat varnish with a matte coat to dull the shiny. My question is what do you all use? Because I've heard nothing good about 'ard coat and purity seal. I'm looking for something I can preferably get at michaels or somewhere equivalent, without having to order online.

**ICleadpeople**

Testors.

**olim**

I use purity seal and it works fine for me, it protects my models and i haven't experience clouding.

**Skippy**

olim wrote:I use purity seal and it works fine for me, it protects my models and i haven't experience clouding.

Yes, purity seal is no worse than any other satin spray varnish. People just love to hate GW round these parts.

However Purity seal is satin, not matte. Testors dull coat is extremely matt and generally great stuff.

If you can get Dullcoat then go for that. If not then give Purity Seal a go.

**Ribon Fox**

Falling that you could go the old school method, several layers of ultra hold hair spry. I found its good for keeping weathering dusts on then if you change your mind you can wash it off in warm soapy water then change the effects.

**bubber**

Use a gloss varnish 1st for maximum protection.
Then use either a matte (eg Testors, as mentioned already) or satin (like the GW Purity Seal).
When using matte varnishes you have to use very thin coats - if it's put on thick it will go glossy.

**ScootyPuffJunior**

If your model is going to be handles a lot, the best thing to do is give it a a coat (two is better) of gloss varnish and then a coat of matte or ultra matte varnish to take the shine off.

The gloss varnish is more tough than a matte varnish and that is the reason you put it on first. Using just a matte varnish could work, but I wouldn't recommend it for a model that is going to be gamed with.

Don't waste your money on 'Ardcoat or any of the other GW varnish products. If you have an airbrush, Liquitex varnishes work great, as do Vallejo. If not, Testors products are wonderful, especially the Dullcoat.

**Chancetragedy**

Wow thanks for the respons everyone. And I don't mean to sound like a GW hater because I'm absolutely not. It's just that I've seen the clouding from purity seal first hand from a very good painter. And add to that the plethora of Internet crapstorm about it, I'd rather just stay away.

So back to the main point. Testor's is very easy for me to acquire. So first things first once I procure the stuff and finish my touch ups. I'd then do 2 very thin layers of gloss varnish for its harder more secure properties. Let that set for however long, then do another 2 thin coats of testors dullcote? Is there anything else to it really?

**ICleadpeople**

My isssue with GW is not the depenability its the cost. The GW sprays in the US are insanely priced.

**ScootyPuffJunior**

You should typically only need one coat of Dullcoat unless you see some shiny areas after the first pass.

When using Dullcoat be advised that it will go on very shiny and dulls as it dries. I only say this so you become concerned by the shininess as you apply it and feel the need to spray more than you need.

**Chancetragedy**

ScootyPuffJunior wrote:You should typically only need one coat of Dullcoat unless you see some shiny areas after the first pass.

When using Dullcoat be advised that it will go on very shiny and dulls as it dries. I only say this so you become concerned by the shininess as you apply it and feel the need to spray more than you need.

Ok cool thanks for the heads up. When I apply it I'll make sure to wait till dry till I decide how I like it. Any other tips?

**fenrir1997**

I use an interior based clear coat from the hardware store (I found a water based gloss clear coat for fairly cheap. Non-yellowing of course). I just dip the whole guy in there, and let it hang from an alligator clip over a piece of newspaper to drip. Crappy brush to catch the stubborn blobs.

Following that I use Krylon's Matte Coat.

Keep in mind, please read the directions on the clear coats carefully. You've put a lot of time and effort into your miniature already, I would cry just hearing about the clear coats going cloudy and ruining your work just because of crappy humidity/ temperature conditions.

Read the cans, save your soul from anguish. Good luck.

**oadie**

As far as I knew, the jury was still out on the comparative resilience of gloss vs. matte varnishes. I spray with gloss first because I want multiple layers of protection and Testors Dullcote (the be all and end all of matte sprays, as far as I'm concerned) isn't as cheap as acceptable gloss sprays (which tend to be less finicky than matte ones, so you can scrimp without issue). Since the top layer determines the finish, the combined approach gives me the look and protection I want for less (especially when I buy the Dullcote at Michaels with a coupon - it's never on sale, so the ubiquitous "40% one regular price item" coupon always applies

).

**Chancetragedy**

Sorry to bring this back from the dead. One last question. I applied gloss varnish and the can says 15 minutes till dry. But he research I've done says wait overnight or 24 hours. If the can says 15 minutes is it cool to add dullcoat after 15 minutes?