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Made in us
Sinewy Scourge






So I am planning to make a Dark Eldar Titan!
and I am wondering what I should buy in order to do this.

My initial plans would be to:
1. Wire frame the entire model first.
2. Apply Clay/Putty/Whatever is good onto Specific parts of the body
3. Do details.
4. Prime
5. Paint
6. Base
7. Torment!

So I am just wondering what types of clay/putty would be good for the following aspects that I hope I can get.
1. Have an oven but not sure if it is good to bake clay in it as I do cook/bake with it.
2. I might be spending time bit by bit on it so it would be nice if it doesn't dry by itself (no air dry?)
3. Easy to mold because I don't have many tools, this shouldn't be a problem because most of the stuff should be mold-able.

yeah that's about what problems I have right now~
Please let me know if you think there are any problems with my steps,
and
Please suggest good materials for me to mold~

40K:
5000+ points W/D/L: 10/0/6
4000+ points W/D/L: 7/0/4
1500+ points W/D/L: 16/1/4

Fantasy
4000+ points W/D/L: 1/1/2
2500+ points W/D/L: 0/0/3
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Made in us
Flashy Flashgitz





USA

1.) Most people who scratch build these types of models do so by building and armature skeleton rather than wire meshing everything.
2.) Most people use epoxy putty like Greestuff in combination with plastic card and a pvc armature.

I'd go have a look at any of the scratch building forums to get a good idea of what you are getting into.

In the past I've used plasticine clay, made a mold of the sculpture and then recast it into resin or even metal. Might be an option for what you are looking to do.





This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/08/21 18:12:57


7 Armies 30,000+

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Made in us
Sinewy Scourge






ok, the skeleton thing seems like a better way to do it, but I am making flesh on the titan as well.

So it might be a hybrid between the wireframe and skeleton, I think that flesh works better with wire frames...

But I'll see what I can do...

I am going to be using quite a bit of clay/putty so green stuff is a bit too expensive for that reason...

40K:
5000+ points W/D/L: 10/0/6
4000+ points W/D/L: 7/0/4
1500+ points W/D/L: 16/1/4

Fantasy
4000+ points W/D/L: 1/1/2
2500+ points W/D/L: 0/0/3
Legends 2013 Doubles Tournament Champion  
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

 Makutsu wrote:
I am going to be using quite a bit of clay/putty so green stuff is a bit too expensive for that reason...
Bulk out the core with something cheap and light and the finished model won't break the bank or your gaming table. As a kid, when I sculpted with polymer clay, I made rough forms out of scrunched up aluminum foil which served as combination armatures/space-fillers. While a bit crude and weak for something on this scale (alone, that is - if tightly compacted around a strong armature, I'd bet my bottom dollar it would hold up well with a few layers of epoxy putty or polymer clay on top), the concept is still applicable. Just be sure not to use foam and polymer clay in conjunction - one of those two materials doesn't like being baked.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in us
Sinewy Scourge






Are there any good brands that are cheap and easy to use?

I might just end up buying a ken barbie doll rip his head and Legs off and base it from there...

40K:
5000+ points W/D/L: 10/0/6
4000+ points W/D/L: 7/0/4
1500+ points W/D/L: 16/1/4

Fantasy
4000+ points W/D/L: 1/1/2
2500+ points W/D/L: 0/0/3
Legends 2013 Doubles Tournament Champion  
   
Made in de
Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






Ingelheim am Rhein, Germany

I'd use miliput. Its not as expensive as greenstuff, and sets rock hard

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My ORK!-Blog here on dakka And if you need a good conversion or a paintjob... My commission blog

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Made in us
World-Weary Pathfinder



Corn, IL, USA

I've never used it myself but I've heard good things about Super-Sculpy and Super-Sculpy-Firm. Also, I found a pretty good tutorial on sculpting with clay like products:

Sculpy Website (direct to clay): http://www.sculpey.com/products/clays

First Sculpting tutorial: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-bor7koo_Q

I know it says "Fantasy Miniatures" but the concepts are the same throughout. Also, I don't think you can buy any clay directly from them. You're going to have to buy it from an art wholesaler.
   
Made in gb
Utilizing Careful Highlighting





cornwall

go into your local craft store and ask them what air dry clays they have in .make sure its sandable! they will sell it in brick sized blocks and will be far cheeper than greenstuff and sculpy.
as for the frame use old wire coat hangers hot glue the joints and then masking tape wrapped arond the frame to bulk it up before you "skin" it with the clay.
   
Made in de
Fixture of Dakka






Columbia, SC (USA)

Hanith wrote:
I've never used it myself but I've heard good things about Super-Sculpy and Super-Sculpy-Firm. Also, I found a pretty good tutorial on sculpting with clay like products:

Sculpy Website (direct to clay): http://www.sculpey.com/products/clays

First Sculpting tutorial: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-bor7koo_Q

I know it says "Fantasy Miniatures" but the concepts are the same throughout. Also, I don't think you can buy any clay directly from them. You're going to have to buy it from an art wholesaler.

I second this option.

I had a chat at Games Day Germany with GW sculptor Mike Anderson. He likes to use Super Sculpey (grey colored variety). He also recommended putting the sculpt into a cold oven and then turning the oven on so it can heat up to the recommended Super Sculpy baking temp. Once the oven reaches that temperature, turn it off and let it cool completely down. Then pull out your sculpt.

You can then add more details with additional Super Sculpey but make sure that you don't leave air bubbles in between the original sculpt and the newly added layers. Then rebake it. Repeat as many times as necessary.

Make sure that you only use oven safe armatures and/or other items that are part of your sculpt. Anything hollow is a no-no as it will trap air in your model and will explode when you heat it in the oven. Plastic is also no good because it will melt and/or catch on fire.

Hard edges will likely mean adding bits carved from plastic to your cured sculpt after it comes out of the oven or using Brown Stuff. Milliput might work but I'm not sure how it will fare in the oven.

I plan to do some sculpting with super sculpey myself starting in a week or two. I'll post a thread in this forum once I get started on my project. It won't be a titan though. I'll be starting with something much simpler.






Automatically Appended Next Post:
Here is a nice tutorial from Massive Voodoo that uses both green stuff and Super Sculpey to do a really neat mini.

http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.de/2010/01/massive-voodoo-sculpting-tutorial.html

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2012/08/22 18:57:14


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