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Made in us
Morphing Obliterator





San Francisco, CA

hello dakka,

I'm looking for an alternative to GW's old Blood Red color. working with it is an exercise in frustration. no matter how many layers I put down, thin or thick, patches of the underlying color show through. it feels like I'm trying to paint with a glaze sometimes.

I want a red that goes on more smoothly and has better coverage. doesn't have to be an exact color match, but it needs to be similar (i.e., in the bright red range).

suggestions?

Night Lords P&M Blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/502731.page
Salamanders P&M Blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/436120.page

"Sternguard though, those guys are all about kicking ass. They'd chew bubble gum as well, but bubble gum is heretical. Only tau chew gum." - MajorStoffer

"Everytime I see someone write a message in tactics saying they need help because they keep loosing games, I want to drive my face through my own keyboard." - Jimsolo 
   
Made in us
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot




San Diego Ca

Base the model with Mephiston red, wash with Carroburg Crimson, then layer with the old Blood Red (or the new Evil Suns Red).
Red is actually very transparent and needs a solid base coat, especially if you water down or use additives (slo-dri or glaze medium).

Life isn't fair. But wouldn't it be worse if Life were fair, and all of the really terrible things that happen to us were because we deserved them?
M. Cole.
 
   
Made in us
Morphing Obliterator





San Francisco, CA

in my most recent case (just now), I'd already put down a couple layers of the old mechrite red over black. I had a smooth, deep red as a base. I laid down three coats of blood red (thinned about 2:1 with water) over the top of that and I can still see bits of mechrite red through it.

Night Lords P&M Blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/502731.page
Salamanders P&M Blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/436120.page

"Sternguard though, those guys are all about kicking ass. They'd chew bubble gum as well, but bubble gum is heretical. Only tau chew gum." - MajorStoffer

"Everytime I see someone write a message in tactics saying they need help because they keep loosing games, I want to drive my face through my own keyboard." - Jimsolo 
   
Made in au
Mekboy Hammerin' Somethin'





Fedan Mhor

If all you want was a solid Blood Red, then you're better off doing 1-2 coats over a white-primered model. It's way easier than doing it over black, but I'd only recommend it if the model was mostly going to be red (Blood Angels, etc)

1500 
   
Made in au
Hacking Proxy Mk.1





Australia

The new GW are actually probably the best for red, it is a problem with the colour, not the guys making it but GWs latest foundation/base line has been really good with its whites/reds/yellows.

 Fafnir wrote:
Oh, I certainly vote with my dollar, but the problem is that that is not enough. The problem with the 'vote with your dollar' response is that it doesn't take into account why we're not buying the product. I want to enjoy 40k enough to buy back in. It was my introduction to traditional games, and there was a time when I enjoyed it very much. I want to buy 40k, but Gamesworkshop is doing their very best to push me away, and simply not buying their product won't tell them that.
 
   
Made in us
Colonel





This Is Where the Fish Lives

VMA Scarlet Red works great in an airbrush and with a normal brush. As others have mentioned, if you want a nice, bright, and smooth red you have to prime the area white.

 d-usa wrote:
"When the Internet sends its people, they're not sending their best. They're not sending you. They're not sending you. They're sending posters that have lots of problems, and they're bringing those problems with us. They're bringing strawmen. They're bringing spam. They're trolls. And some, I assume, are good people."
 
   
Made in nl
Esteemed Veteran Space Marine





the Netherlands

vallejo game color bloody red is the closest match ever

   
Made in us
Morphing Obliterator





San Francisco, CA

interesting... so even applying over a red base color isn't going to give me good results? I'm better off applying brighter reds over white?

Night Lords P&M Blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/502731.page
Salamanders P&M Blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/436120.page

"Sternguard though, those guys are all about kicking ass. They'd chew bubble gum as well, but bubble gum is heretical. Only tau chew gum." - MajorStoffer

"Everytime I see someone write a message in tactics saying they need help because they keep loosing games, I want to drive my face through my own keyboard." - Jimsolo 
   
Made in gb
Scuttling Genestealer




Wakefield, Yorkshire

Depends what you want. If you want a bright red (or a bright yellow or orange for that matter) then several coats of blood red over white is just about the only way to go. If you want a deep red then you can go for a base over black, plus blood red/washes over the top and a highlight of vomit brown or orange. You'll never get a really bright red over black.

Why couldn't Matt Wilson get a drink from the vending machine?
Because he had No Quarters.
http://www.dadsarmies.blogspot.com Father and son wargaming blog 
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

 varl wrote:
interesting... so even applying over a red base color isn't going to give me good results? I'm better off applying brighter reds over white?
Pretty much. Most reds are going to be rather translucent, so even diluted as little as necessary to get good flow, you'll be putting on coat after coat for full opacity. Personally, I find this to work in my favor, as I don't usually want overly bright reds. I can get a decent gradient by applying layers of very dilute VGC Bloody Red directly over GW's old Mechrite Red, whereas I'd almost never use the color at "full strength." If you want them really bright, though, as you seem to, you're probably better off basing white, throwing down a few layers to get a smooth, bright red, then mostly shading down from there, instead of trying to highlight up.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in pt
Sinewy Scourge





Porto

Look for Ancient Evil's Blood Angels on Warseer. He paints Vallejo Model Colour flat red beautifully, though I think he does it with Black primer -> Army Painter something red -> VMC Flat Red. The red is opaque, not all shiny like GW paint though it is a lot more sensitive to grease (from fingers).

He also highlights it with old rose; I've used the colour over a white primer and I quite like the results, but I think the trick with red might be applying it uniformly (airbrush).

YMMV, it really depends if you want a nice red that doesn't look orange-ish or too pink-ish.

anonymous @ best Warhammer Miniature wrote:i vote the choas dwarf lord as they are the greatest dwarfs n should get there own codex


 
   
Made in us
Morphing Obliterator





San Francisco, CA

I don't suppose you know his username over there? the only ancient evil guy I found was a necron player

Night Lords P&M Blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/502731.page
Salamanders P&M Blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/436120.page

"Sternguard though, those guys are all about kicking ass. They'd chew bubble gum as well, but bubble gum is heretical. Only tau chew gum." - MajorStoffer

"Everytime I see someone write a message in tactics saying they need help because they keep loosing games, I want to drive my face through my own keyboard." - Jimsolo 
   
 
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