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Hey guys!
I was pointed towards a few websites with some awesome paperhammer templates. I have a few questions for any experienced paperhammer builders.

1. What's the best type of adhesive? Should I still use super glue? It seems elmers/glue sticks and such don't hold until they dry. Should I use tape?

2. When cutting out the shapes, do you use scissors? Or an exacto knife? What are those blue mats/drafting things people use? Where do I find a cheap one of them?

3. When it comes to painting, if I am using card-stock paper, should I prime and paint as normal?

4. How can I add weight to my model? I am trying my first attempt heroically by doing a Warhound Titan. I have one foot done, and it weighs nothing. I imagine the whole model will weigh very little.

5. Any other tips and tricks I should be aware of?

Thanks for all of the help guys. So far, I've got one foot done and I've used invisible tape. I feel that I am going to see it very easily after priming and painting. Probably going to start over after I see some tips.

1. I use white school glue and Aleene's Tacky Glue
2. exacto knife on a cutting mat http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=cutting+mat
3. you probably want to seal it with something, just be careful it doesnt get too wet and start warping
4. reinforce with cardboard (from cereal boxes, etc) and/or glue weights inside, again be careful of warping when the glue is drying
5. tweezers help connect and press hard-to-reach tabs
If you are printing the texture instead of painting, make sure to color or paint the cut edges
Take a look at the link in my signature for some of my paperhammer work

I've done quite a bit of paper modelling myself. My comrade there hit the nail on the head pretty well. I'd just add the following
print on normal paper & then glue your cut templates to cereal box. I personally loathe glue tabs & so remove them beforehand. Also for extra armor plates & the like that are a 1 layer detail a heavy cardstock is good cause you can just print directly on it. Oh, often for the quickest bond on seams I do what I've heard others refer to as hot spotting: a layer of white glue on each piece with a drop of super glue in between to very rapidly set.

While it does sort of leave Paper Hammer behind - you might consider plasticard as well...

I have done dozens of them out of sheet styrene, tubing and other materials - and once you are done building with those materials...they can be handled pretty much like the models sold by GW. It isn't much more difficult to work with the plastic than it is to work with thick card.

Tips :

1 - Take your time! Slow and steady wins the race with paper modeling.

2 - Use a metal straight edge (ruler) for making your cuts

3 - Don't use scissors unless you absolutely have to (circles for example) as they bed the edge where you are cutting and don't leave as clean a cut.

4 - If you have a hard to glue spot, use superglue - With superglue and paper, less is more!

5 - In fact, with paper and ANY glue, less is more! If you soak the paper/card with glue it will soften and be less clean (and harder to assemble properly).
5a - I tend to use ONLY "Aleens Tacky glue" for the majority of my gluing.

6 - Lascannon (and other) barrels - Wrap the paper around a bamboo skewer and use that as your base. It ensures a nice straight, round barrel!

7 - Always use a sharp blade - There's nothing worse than cutting away and tearing the paper because your blade is dull.

8 - To seal the paper model I always use Gesso. It's available in any arts and crafts store. Artists use it to prep canvas boards for painting and I find that it never seems to warp my cardstock when I "prime" the card with it (as long as I don't use too much of course). When I'm done sealing it and painting it I then give it a clear coat to finish it off. This combo seems to leave me with pretty sturdy and durable paper models (and durable paintjobs).

9 - For weight, I'm not sure .. All of my papercraft models tend to end up near the same weight as a standard GW model (IF I use cardboard stolen from food packaging, etc for thicker parts as a backing/stiffener).

Paper modelling is fun (and addictive) and very rewarding, although VERY time consuming. Don't be discouraged if your first attempt is horrible (Mine was barely passable as wreckage!) .. it's only paper and you'll improve with practice!

Thanks for the fast replys!!!
I plan on taking everyones advice and am, in turn, going to shelf my single titan foot and start with a simple looking Land Raider template. When I've got the basic "I can make a box!" thing done, I might move up to the Leman Russ template I've got and go from there. I will post some stuff over on my P and M blog when I get started! Thanks!