Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
Times and dates in your local timezone.
Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.
Whites will always look bad if you sue just pure white. You have to start with off whites like bone colours, light grays, and very light blue-grays. WarbossTae has a good masterclass tutorial following one of the old WD (when they were ACTUALLY GOOD)., I'll see if I can find them again.
EDIT: Found them. Here's the first video. Note that it uses only GW paints, so you'll have to either use those or use equivalents of your choosing/help from others.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/02/11 01:34:35
A soul crushingly tedious application on many many layers of thin white is how I go about it. Starting from a base of Grey helps as well.
BlaxicanX wrote: A young business man named Tom Kirby, who was a pupil of mine until he turned greedy, helped the capitalists hunt down and destroy the wargamers. He betrayed and murdered Games Workshop.
Spray is the best way to get a good white. It will be much brighter and much smoother than doing 10 coats. Also maybe exercise some common sense. The main reason people suffer with colours like white and yellow is because they prime stuff black (the hardest colour to cover) and then wonder why they can't cover it. You really have to question the thinking here.
There is really no good reason why you should be trying to paint light colours over black. Even if you have a mostly black army, but with small light details. Such as white helmets, or yellow shoulder pads. With a bit of planning you can spray the helmets and shoulder pads separately before assembly. Or spray white first and then mask off those areas before spraying black, or just do the black by hand. Black over white is easy; white over black is very hard. That is why i usually tell people to undercoat in white.
Even if you like the effect of building up layers over a black base, you can still do that just by filling in black areas as you need them. But you won't be left struggling with the other areas that you want to have pop.
