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Been looking at getting involved with 40k after a 14 year hiatus with an army described here
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/510422.page

Just got a couple of questions as I'm hoping to increase my standard of painting from the first time around.
I'm hoping to have any deep striking forces have minimalist decals, ie file off purity deals and the more extravagent skulls. and paint them black. However I think this would leave them very flat looking, so I'd like to give them some subtle patterning either similar to what you get on Tau figures or similar to tiger stripe camo using a charcoal shade and a "solid" matt black.
I've been watching a few tutorials and rather than mixing two shades of black and risking getting inconsistant results I'm wondering if under coating with white, the painting the areas I wanting dark a stock grey and then applying many black washes to build up the colour. Does this sound like it would work, has anyone seen and models using a similar scheme that I could use for inspiration.

My second question is that while reading I've noticed that models with altered profiles can cause some people to kick up a fuss, are their any guide lines for keeping things fair? I'm looking at trying to make some of my guardman fairly dynamic with quite a few models kneeling or firing from prone, also having seen Flinty models if I do introduce Leman Russes to my force I quite fancy basing them on the chimera chassis and either a predator turret or a modified russ turret placed further back on the chassis as I prefer the sleeker profile.

Any help would be great, and any advice on the army lists would also be fantastic

ragnorack1 wrote:
Been looking at getting involved with 40k after a 14 year hiatus with an army described here
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/510422.page

My second question is that while reading I've noticed that models with altered profiles can cause some people to kick up a fuss, are their any guide lines for keeping things fair? I'm looking at trying to make some of my guardman fairly dynamic with quite a few models kneeling or firing from prone, also having seen Flinty models if I do introduce Leman Russes to my force I quite fancy basing them on the chimera chassis and either a predator turret or a modified russ turret placed further back on the chassis as I prefer the sleeker profile....

Welcome back. I like the idea of going with the Mentors as your DP SM allies. The Green, White and Red of those guys is not a common sight. Plus GW has transfers for them available for rather cheap if you don't want to free hand the Bird head.

For your second question I would think you really would need to be careful with this idea. You need to really have a balance. Because if someone calls you out on "Modeling to your Advantage" because he cannot see your units with TLOS and he would be able to with most armies of the same type that could easily be taken as shinagians by a Judge at a tourney. The best way to do what you want is to make sure that there is a balance between the prone models and the standing models. Or you could use the prone models as a marker for a unit that has gone to ground. As for the Leman Russ, put it on the Chimera chassis. Give it the LR stats and create some fluff explanation for why there Tank is a bit different.

thats my 2 cents on your ideas.

Lots of infantry models are kneeling or prone, so don't worry about it. You just need to be agreeable with your opponent as to what can and cannot be seen under some circumstances. The easiest thing to do is just agree that all of the models have a bounding box the same size as a standing model. Then non standing models will be able to do extaordinary things, such as see over walls and suchlike.

Also I agree with your tank idea and wish to subscribe to your newsletter

Regarding the wash idea, you could also find 2 different stock greys and then wash over them to tie the shades together. It might be easier than going all the way from white down to charcoal.

Thanks for the replies glad to know that there is some lee way with the models, hopefully there shouldn't be too much hassle as I'm not very competitive to I'm willing to compromise with opponents, like the idea of making some going to ground models too, though the thought of making that many models just for that occaision makes me weep

Ohh nice idea with the painting Flinty, I'll try get hold of some cheap terminators n have a bit of an experiment. Love your army by the way, aiming for a style similar to that but with camo closer to the up to the up to date mpt any maybe some features knicked from WWII era.

I used to paint my BT chaos black, do details, put another thin coat of black on and then highlight. I hated doing it, and I hated the results. Now I prime, base in a light gray, and throw 2-3 coats of Nuln Oil on. Makes a GREAT weathered look and natural highlights.

You can model them however you want as models. As game pieces they should properly represent game pieces.

General rules. Excluding weapons, wings, tails, banners, etc. The model should stay within the confines of it's base.

IE a Trygon leaning way way forward hanging halfway off it's base could be called cool, and modelling for advantage.

The base cannot be smaller than the base the model comes with. No 3" flight stands under Vendetta's it's part of the base.

A prone or kneeling models here and there for cool factor is ok. Entire prone squads to hide on objectives...not ok.

Rule of cool does apply. If the poses, and bases together just look super dang cool it'll play. If not beware the opponent looking for an edge anyway he can get it because he could throw half your army off the table before the game starts.

Wagguy80 wrote:
You can model them however you want as models. As game pieces they should properly represent game pieces.

General rules. Excluding weapons, wings, tails, banners, etc. The model should stay within the confines of it's base.

IE a Trygon leaning way way forward hanging halfway off it's base could be called cool, and modelling for advantage.

The base cannot be smaller than the base the model comes with. No 3" flight stands under Vendetta's it's part of the base.

A prone or kneeling models here and there for cool factor is ok. Entire prone squads to hide on objectives...not ok.

Rule of cool does apply. If the poses, and bases together just look super dang cool it'll play. If not beware the opponent looking for an edge anyway he can get it because he could throw half your army off the table before the game starts.

This is similiar to what I was thinking.