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I'm a self confessed 'noob' when it comes to painting having only been painting Warhammer for a little over a year now. I'm also a huge fan of Salamanders. So, in the course of starting a Salamanders army as a first foray into 40K, I opted to use Citadel's 'Warpstone Glow' (Formerly Snot Green) as my main coat.

Initially, I noticed that the WG had a low opacity and was very thick to apply - however I put this down to my inexperience and the fact that I was painting from the pot. However, learning from my initial mistakes, I have now started painting a set of Terminators using the proper method of thinning paints. BUT... I'm still noticing a general lumpiness and low opacity even when I thin the WG. I'm not concerned with the low opacity, as obviously this is the thinning effect - however I don't want the lumpiness!

So my question is: Has anybody else found this problem with Warpstone Glow, and is there anyway I can counteract it without having to shell out for lots of new paint products?

PS. - My Water:Flow Improver solution is 9:1 respectively, which I apply 1:1 or 1:2 to pure Warpstone Glow (Depending on the amount of paint I set down.) I'm using Winsor Newton Flow Aid.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hmm, my pot appears to be fine, there's been no lumps in it so far. I'll have to admit that I've only used small amounts so far, so there might be some farther down in the pot. I assume you've tried shaking the pot? If you've got a GW or FLGS nearby, I'd recommend taking the pot with you and asking for a new one, to be honest. It sounds like an error in the manufacturing process.

I would like to say that it is a manufacturing error, but what I forgot to omit (In my rather large first post ), is that I have in fact bought two pots both with the same problem. It's not lumps per-sae, but it shows brush marks very easily, even when thinned. Admittedly, it's my first time thinning, but when I thinned down my base-coat of Orkhide Shade, it worked very well and was smooth.

Maybe I should simply persever, but I didn't want to ruin a £20 box of Terminators, just for the sake of me having done it wrong!

I started a really similar topic a couple of weeks ago.

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/508446.page

I also had problem with Warpstone glow letting brush marks. The only solution I found was to carefully paint about 3 thin layers of warpstone glow to have a nice coverage.

I have found that compared to the older snot green warpstone green is definatly thinner

No lumps in mine, but I am not happy with the coverage.

You have to use a few coats, or else you'll notice everything! If you're using flow aids, why not just try regular tap water? Make a wet palette.

I've had several instances of random pots of GW paint being lumpy now matter how much I thin it. I've largely abandoned the line for P3 at this point due to it. Even those that aren't lumpy require three-four times the work to get to a thin state than a P3 product.

I won't even begin to get into the fight I had with Balthasar Gold last night (one of my last hues I haven't swapped to P3) trying to get it to apply smoothly.

I noticed the same problems with lumps/brush marks with my VGC Bright Bronze (and I use a lot of it for my Minotaurs army). My solution was to mix up a batch of Bright Bronze/Glaze Medium/Gloss Medium at a ratio of 2:1:1 and added about 5 drops of clean water to the mix.. Then I mixed it up thoroughly and strained it to get the lumps out.

My warpstone needs to be super thin to not show brush strokes, and use like 5 coats. I have had 3 different color pots of the new citadel paints that I've had to return due to being cottage cheese consistency. 2 of them were white scar one was warpstone glow.

Try to thin it out more than you'd think and do multiple layers. Show be ok, although I find that specific color is better as a highlight due to needing less coverage.

@ damek - I think I remember this post for exactly the same reason as i'm now posting! I commented, but having now tried my own thinning I thought I would put up one more relevant to my problem. Your Salamanders are looking great BTW.

@Deunstephe - I'm using a wet palette, and I've tried it with water, but the problem is still prevalent. It's easier just to use my flow-aid/water solution as it's in handy dropper bottles.

@Clsaac - That's funny, I'm using Balthasar gold myself for a gold base and I found it to be very controllable and covers well. Mind you, I am just using it on small details. Possibly just a 1 pot problem?

I've taken on the advice and thinned it down so that I have to apply at least 3-4 coats. This has alleviated the problem somewhat, but I'm still noticing a general lumpiness (For want of a better word) when the paint catches the light.

I suppose it's the best of a bad job, but I may consider swapping to a different type in future. :(

Maybe try using the vajello(sp) paint range equivalent?

Crappy paint, lumps, bad coverage to thick.. sounds like gw paints . But seriously if i remeber correctly.. snot green is very bright green.. are you going straight over black with that colour as a base? if so thats your problem.. try priming white.