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I want to remove a head from a metal model and I gather a Dremel is likely the answer. What dremel models do you guys use and what attachments do you find most useful in modelling work?

I've found a diamond cutting blade works well. It's about $15 but lasts a really long time. You can also us it for resin and plastic models.

I don't use Dremel. While they're still the biggest name in the rotary tool world, you have to pay out the nose for it. Cost-cutting measures have led to a significant drop in quality for their entry-level tools, as well, meaning you have to pay for branding and potentially unnecessary upgrades to actually get the expected quality.

If you're just going to be doing the odd modeling job, you're probably better off buying a cheap no-name tool. You'll have to work a bit more slowly, in all likelihood, as the cheapies usually have underpowered motors, but that usually works in your favor, when it comes to working on miniatures.

If you want something with some real balls (in case you want to tackle household/heavy terrain projects), instead, that is still useful for modeling, I highly recommend the Black & Decker RTX - literally half the price (when I bought mine, at least) of a "comparable" Dremel tool, but with double the torque and much sturdier construction (oh, don't let the box fool you, if they haven't updated the text - the speed control is a true rheostat, it just has three positions where it clicks into place). The tradeoff is added weight, but a flex shaft can negate that (buying one with the tool brings the cost in line with the Dremel). The area where Dremel still reigns supreme is their selection and quality of bits and accessories, most of which can be mounted in/on other brands' tools.

With all of that said, I honestly find very little call for my rotary tool, when modeling. Decent hand tools work nearly as quickly and with greater precision, in most cases. Your specific task is one where the tool will actually benefit you greatly, but I still don't think that justifies dropping a ton of money. If you search for the handful of similar threads that have cropped up, you'll hear that opinion echoed - not by the majority, perhaps, but by the sensible ones.

 oadie wrote:
I don't use Dremel. While they're still the biggest name in the rotary tool world, you have to pay out the nose for it. Cost-cutting measures have led to a significant drop in quality for their entry-level tools, as well, meaning you have to pay for branding and potentially unnecessary upgrades to actually get the expected quality.

If you're just going to be doing the odd modeling job, you're probably better off buying a cheap no-name tool. You'll have to work a bit more slowly, in all likelihood, as the cheapies usually have underpowered motors, but that usually works in your favor, when it comes to working on miniatures.

If you want something with some real balls (in case you want to tackle household/heavy terrain projects), instead, that is still useful for modeling, I highly recommend the Black & Decker RTX - literally half the price (when I bought mine, at least) of a "comparable" Dremel tool, but with double the torque and much sturdier construction (oh, don't let the box fool you, if they haven't updated the text - the speed control is a true rheostat, it just has three positions where it clicks into place). The tradeoff is added weight, but a flex shaft can negate that (buying one with the tool brings the cost in line with the Dremel). The area where Dremel still reigns supreme is their selection and quality of bits and accessories, most of which can be mounted in/on other brands' tools.

With all of that said, I honestly find very little call for my rotary tool, when modeling. Decent hand tools work nearly as quickly and with greater precision, in most cases. Your specific task is one where the tool will actually benefit you greatly, but I still don't think that justifies dropping a ton of money. If you search for the handful of similar threads that have cropped up, you'll hear that opinion echoed - not by the majority, perhaps, but by the sensible ones.

I agree that most work on plastic and resin can easily be done with manual tools (and sometimes need to, in case the resin is vey brittle).
That does not mean a rotary power tool will not be the more comfortable way to do it, however. And for converting metal miniatures, I have made very good experience with using an engraving tool/shaper head.
As a sidenote, please refrain from making a fool out of yourself by writing condescending nonsense like the last sentence.

Some clarifications/corrections:

1. The available B&D RTX models start at 12,000 rpm. I would see that as a big disadvantage working with miniatures. I have a Dremel 4000, starting at 5,000 rpm, and I have seldomly moved beyound 10,000 rpm (really only when I am using a cutter).

2. The B&D RTX-6 plus flexible shaft would cost exactly the same than the Dremel 4000 plus flexible shaft (~80 GBP/100 EUR), as you rightly said. I say would, because I could not find a single European online shop carrying that model.

3. The main problem of cheap rotary tools (in the context of miniature conversion) is not that they are underpowered but that their lowest rpm setting is still too high for most of the works done on minis. See point 1.

That said, I have nothing against the B&D machine itself, it seems to be the more powerful tool and the flexible shaft actually looks a lot handier than the Dremel one.

I do agree that the speed is far above the ideal range for most modeling tasks, but that's true of most of the rotary tools available and one of the major reasons I usually present against their use, in general. In my experience, the underpowered motors of cheap tools usually end up making them run at a more appropriate speed, once under any sort of load, but that's still far from ideal (although the issue can be circumvented on cheap tools or single-speed Dremels by installing an external rheostat, but that either adds cost or requires a cheap part and potentially damaging tinkering). As for cost, it seems that European distributors are gouging you on imported tools to varying degrees, if they're even directly available, skewing your price numbers and preventing equivalent comparisons from being drawn. The RTX-B cost me a mere $30 when I bought it and according to Amazon, still goes for that price. Flex shafts run anywhere from $10-30, bringing the total up to $60, if you pay Dremel accessory prices (I didn't). The Dremel 4000 lists at $80, without a flex shaft. The most direct current comparison, though, is the 3000 (the entry-level variable speed tool), which I can only find available in kits that include extra accessories, bringing the price nearly in line with the 4000 (while still lacking a flex shaft). It almost seems like it might actually end up cheaper to buy from a US distributor and have it shipped overseas. When I was in the market, though, the comparable Dremel tool cost about $60 and ran at higher speeds. It was negligent of me, perhaps, to have not thoroughly researched current models and the European rotary tool market before posting, but far from malicious. I didn't go back and check the OP's location flag before commenting.

treslibras wrote:

 oadie wrote:
...If you search for the handful of similar threads that have cropped up, you'll hear that opinion echoed - not by the majority, perhaps, but by the sensible ones.

... As a sidenote, please refrain from making a fool out of yourself by writing condescending nonsense like the last sentence.

Well, that's one national stereotype confirmed. See that winking Ork face, there? That suggests the previous comment was meant to be humorous. Perhaps not even orkmoticons can survive cultural translation... A friendly piece of advice - strong, direct, knee-jerk reactions like that might end up getting you into a lot of shouting matches with Dakka's more... energetic, shall we say, posters. The backlash from confrontational comments usually does more to derail threads (believe me, this is an incredibly small and tame, as rebuttals go) than the initial offense that provoked them, whether legitimate or simply misconstrued. Best to take a step back and assume the most favorable interpretation, for everyone's sake. And now, I'll dismount the soapbox.

 oadie wrote:
It was negligent of me, perhaps, to have not thoroughly researched current models and the European rotary tool market before posting, but far from malicious. I didn't go back and check the OP's location flag before commenting.

No harm done! I am sure the next time you start lecturing you will have done your prep-work.

(See? A winking ork is not necessarily indicating good humour!)

 oadie wrote:
Well, that's one national stereotype confirmed. See that winking Ork face, there? That suggests the previous comment was meant to be humorous. Perhaps not even orkmoticons can survive cultural translation... A friendly piece of advice... [yadda yadda yadda]...

I did not know that baguettes, mimes and making love under the eiffel tower shone through my post but if that is the case, I am thouroughly impressed by your cultural reading skills.

Well you have gotten plenty of advice already, but I would strongly recommend, almost to the point of requiring that you get a flex shaft. It makes it a lot easier then holding the whole tool in your hand. I rarely use my dremel without it (although I don't use mine for modeling)

Thanks for the input guys, much to consider.

treslibras wrote:
I did not know that baguettes, mimes and making love under the eiffel tower shone through my post but if that is the case, I am thouroughly impressed by your cultural reading skills.

I was going for a "humorless and rigidly literal" joke, since your location flag is German. That time, I had made sure to check it first, too. Oh well - as they say, "All is well that ends... in a few verbal jabs instead of a multi-page flame war and moderator lock." Yep, I'm sure that's how the saying went.

Anyway, apologies for hijacking the thread, OP. If you're looking for more opinions (especially ones actually relevant to your question ), there really are a few earlier threads worth glancing over - especially this one and this one. A number of people weigh in on the general usefulness of rotary tools and their favorite bits, while others provide specific model suggestions. Both rather old, but most of the products are still available. Also mostly Americans weighing in, but enough about generic and Dremel brand tools that you should find something pertinent.

No worries, oadie. Those links more than make up for it Clearly my search-fu is weaker than yours...

If you can afford it, get a flex shaft http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015GBNL8/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1363118383&sr=8-2&pi=SL75 . Better than any Dremel. A jewelers saw might be able to take that head off also. Do you have a picture of the model in question?

I would go with a jeweller's saw.

There aren't many modelling tasks that really need a Dremel and you can get a ton of good alternative tools for the same money.

One thing I would add.

Whatever product you go with, I highly recommend a corded rotary tool. It may seem handy at first for small jobs to have a cordless version, but once you start using it for bigger terrain and modeling jobs, you'll be glad to have the full torque and dependable power of a corded tool.

To sum up, cordless costs more and gives less.

I've got to agree with getting a corded version if you decide to go the rotary tool route. I picked up a cordless Dremel a couple years ago on sale as it was a great price but the battery does NOT hold a charge very long at all.

It can make it through a head alright, but you better charge it before trying the next head.

TheLionOfTheForest - no pic of the model, but it's the power fist guy from the space marine veterans mk. 2 group.

killkrazy - unfortunately, I think head swaps on metal space marines are one of the few instances where a jewellers saw would be inadequate.

Eilif & martian_jo - thanks for the tip!

Dremel stylus. Cordless, good battery life, comfortable grip , variable speed. Best money I ever spent.

I actually have 4 different rotary tools which I use from time to time when modeling. The first is a basic Dremel (going on 10 years old...so the actual model number is no longer available). It has a flex shaft as well as some other attachments (a router base that is handy for doing certain terrain carving and an angle guage that is designed to shapen things like axes and lawn mower blades but I have adapted it for beveling base boards for buildings).

I've also got a large Foredom that has a foot peddle and flex shaft. It has the most control, but enough torque to carve a log into toothpicks. I normally only use that for terrain or resin that has a lot of clean up to do.

Ive got one of the 'newer' Stylus Dremels like shown above. It is comfortable to hold and the shape works for most angles without getting in the way of itself. Though more often than not I just have a grinding wheel on it to cut off casring blocks and tabs from figures.

The final one is a Proxxon Micromot. It uses an external power supply, and the whole tool is about the size of the flexshaft handle of the Dremel or Foredom, which is very comfortable to hold and has the added benefit of not having a flex shaft to fight with.

For bits, it really depends. Cut off wheels get the most use, while I use various polishing points to clean up mold lines. When I am doing head swaps, I'll use a round cutter bit...I find the clean socket to be the best option for blending the new head into the old body. Different materials also work better with different bits (one which works great with metal often clogs up with plastic and soft resins).

For a lot of people though, hand tools are the better option. A jewelers saw and a set of files are plenty to do head swaps and the like. Power tools really come into there own if you are doingdozens of figures in short order (as opposed to maybe a dozen figures in as many years).

One more thing to add. I picked up one of these wheels recently and it is amazing!
Dremel 543 1-1/4 inch Cutting/Shaping Wheel
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-543-Cutting-Shaping-Wheel/dp/B000HI5WUS/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1363353268&sr=8-11&keywords=Dremel+Cutting


It's rough on the sides and top so you can both cut and shape with it. Also, its curve is wide enough that you can use it to scrape a surface of tabs and such without leaving a trench.

I don't use it for figures much, but for shaping terrain It gets a ton of use. I buy junk toys from the resale shop dollar bin take them home and this cutter makes it easy to cut them into manageable sections for building terrain and greebling surfaces. Also, for things like buildings made from blue electrical boxes, it takes off all the extraneous tabs and smooths the cuts in a minute or so, a task that takes alot longer with a razor saw.

It's a bit more expensive, but it doesn't break like cutting wheels either.

Eilif wrote:
One more thing to add. I picked up one of these wheels recently and it is amazing!
Dremel 543 1-1/4 inch Cutting/Shaping Wheel
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-543-Cutting-Shaping-Wheel/dp/B000HI5WUS/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1363353268&sr=8-11&keywords=Dremel+Cutting


It's rough on the sides and top so you can both cut and shape with it. Also, its curve is wide enough that you can use it to scrape a surface of tabs and such without leaving a trench.

I don't use it for figures much, but for shaping terrain It gets a ton of use. I buy junk toys from the resale shop dollar bin take them home and this cutter makes it easy to cut them into manageable sections for building terrain and greebling surfaces. Also, for things like buildings made from blue electrical boxes, it takes off all the extraneous tabs and smooths the cuts in a minute or so, a task that takes alot longer with a razor saw.

It's a bit more expensive, but it doesn't break like cutting wheels either.

That looks like an awesome piece, gonna have to get me some of those.

Glad to help.

I just want to reemphasize though that it is too harsh for any thing other than removing large sections of a miniature, It will take an arm or head off easily and effectively, but it might not leave the removed section in a condition to be reused as it is a fairly wide blade.

You're going to lose at 1/16 of an inch and maybe more on any cut and while it's great at grinding off parts of terrain, it's not going to smooth a miniature.

Hope I haven't scared anyone off it. It's a great tool, just as long as it's used for the right purpose.

Having the right bits is important. Just because one cutting wheel can cut metal doesn't mean you should use it to cut plastic, get a wheel designed to actually cut plastic.

I really like my rotary tool, though it's a cheap cordless one so I have to plug the stupid thing in constantly and wait for it to charge before I can use it and the charge only lasts a few cuts. But as cheap and crappy as it is, converting something like the Storm talon which I'm doing now I'm really missing it (I didn't bring it with me when I moved).

I tend to not use it when I actually want to salvage both sides of a cut, but if I don't care about the thing I'm removing then I love it because I can just slice away at it in a fraction of the time and without the sore fingers associated with cutting fiddly little bits with hand tools.

One nice thing about rotary tools is they are rotary (lol), which means the tools are circular and can get in to some recessed areas without damaging the surrounding area that is much harder to do with tools.