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Made in gb
Tough Tyrant Guard





SHE-FI-ELD

Hiya I thought I would share my first sculpt as I am actually quite proud of it

Spoiler:





Its all made from Armature and GS, except the end of the ''sword'' which is 2 Tyranid devourers mashed together & GS, and the 2 spikes coming out of the back are cut off Scything talons.
Mostly made up as I went along, Took around a week to complete, I was a little impatient not layering up properly, this contributed to the smoothing problem.


Areas for improvement;
- Hands. The hands on the model are really bad, quite bloby
-Smoothing. In the smaller areas (Between breasts etc) I had trouble smoothing out the GS.
-Planning and reference material. Sure both of these would make for a better end product.
-Keep practicing

What I would do differently;
Next time, I think I will try out Green Put, Most GS mixing in a bit of Milliput to support the structure better, I didn't realise how rubbery GS was, the hair sections there move freely in any direction.
I will probably cast the next model, GS really does not like being painted and had many problems with paint chipping etc. I think with planning and reference material ^ , I could section the model out for easier casting.

Next Project? I'm considering what to do next... Thinking either a Harpy or Harridan made from MC spare parts & Mili/Gs, or scratch deamonettes. Not sure if I want to go larger, or smaller =D

Thanks for looking, any feedback is appreciated.

It's my codex and I'll cry If I want to.

Tactical objectives are fantastic 
   
Made in la
Witch Hunter in the Shadows





Earth

Not too shabby mate. Just keep at it, and practice lots. Look up Ailaros on here. He does quite a bit of green stuff work, and if I recall correctly has a couple good tips on here or on his website. At the very least it is worth checking out some of his stuff.

   
Made in de
Slaanesh Chosen Marine Riding a Fiend





Babenhausen, Germany

For a first sculpt it look good. A good starting point.
The basic body propotions looking quite good. But the finer anatiomical details need some more features. For this i often use http://www.posemaniacs.com/ as reference to get a feel for the muscles that shape the legs and arms in different poses.

You should also think about layering details. If you have problems smoothing between the breasts you could build the smooth torso first and add the breasts in another step. The same goes for fiddly details like the hands.

This tutorial has helped me a ton on my hand sculpting skills.
http://xenite.wordpress.com/modeling-painting-and-hobby-articles/sculpting-hands-with-greenstuff/

And adding milliput doesn't remove the moving of putty completely it only reduces it. And don't add too much milliput for free hanging details or the cured putty will get to hard and is prone of breaking under pressure on long and thin parts instead of bending like pure GS does.

*edit: And with adding milliput the consistency changes. As it isn't that robbery anymore your working tools can leave marks more easyer. So smoothing gets more important. On the flipside you can create sharper details with it with is usefull for mecahnical sculpting. But for organic parts i mostly only add a tiny bit of milliput or stay with pure GS.

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2013/03/17 14:36:34


   
 
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