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I haven't used any of the GW new washes until my own stocks ran out.

Truth be told I wish I'd ditched them earlier these new Washes are briliant.



Nuln Oil is superb, the coverage, viscosity and lack of pooling and speed it drys makes this stuff one of the best washes I have used. I usually make my own from Acrylics, but with washes as good as this I'm buying GW stuff.



I just wish they sold it like Vallejo Washes in 200ml Jars as it would easier for my airbrush.

Good to know, sounds like good stuff.

I bought some since I had a gift card and I cannot figure out how to use it, do I just glob it on where there's a hole or crease? I tried using it like regular paint and it put a light grey coat over what I was painting, I guess that's what supposed to happen?

Glad that you like it, hopefully I will figure out how to use it sooner or later.

 Rotgut wrote:
I bought some since I had a gift card and I cannot figure out how to use it, do I just glob it on where there's a hole or crease? I tried using it like regular paint and it put a light grey coat over what I was painting, I guess that's what supposed to happen?

Glad that you like it, hopefully I will figure out how to use it sooner or later.

I usually water down my washes 1:1 water and wash and then brush it over the entire model. It will darken the overall color of the model usually, but I personally like the effect. If you don't want to darken your model you can also brush wash over the entire model and then use a dry brush to soak up the wash on the larger parts of the model, like the large, flat armor plates on space marines (being careful to leave the wash in the recesses of the model you want darkened).

I concur, I love GW's nuln oil and keep other shades on hand. I really need to pick some more up at some point.

Another technique you can try for washing is using an oil based wash. Tubes of oil paint (like sold at craft/painting stores) thinned with mineral spirits (white spirits for those in the EU) have better viscosity than any water thinned acrylic wash or ink and better coverage, in my experience.

Takes a little extra setup time, you MUST use a synthetic brush, and you need to seal the model first, but it's well worth it. You can wash an entire terminator sized model in about 30-60 seconds. A cotton swab and some pure mineral spirits will pick up any excess/spillage even hours later.

Thanks for the info. I decided to give GW another go too. My only gripe was the paint lids won't click and stay open...grrr.

 Phydox wrote:
Thanks for the info. I decided to give GW another go too. My only gripe was the paint lids won't click and stay open...grrr.

Well depending on the pot some have a little rubberized tab on the back which help keeps it open though its torn off most of the time

Sigh.... shades =/= washes. Shades have less tension and flow into creases better. Washes collect in recesses but they also cover the model like a glaze as well.

I'm glad you like your nuln oil. Try some of the other shades as well, I'm sure you will like them, too. They really take a lot of work out of it and if you don't want a glazing, they are better at shading than the old washes.

The Shade paints I've used have all been very good. I'm a fan of Casandora Yellow (handy as I have a Bad Moon army) and Carroburg Crimson myself. I have seen the DVD for the latest GW painting book and I use the tip from that to paint Space Marine helmet lenses - paint the eye white and wash with Carroburg Crimson. Looks really nice.

 CIsaac wrote:
Another technique you can try for washing is using an oil based wash. Tubes of oil paint (like sold at craft/painting stores) thinned with mineral spirits (white spirits for those in the EU) have better viscosity than any water thinned acrylic wash or ink and better coverage, in my experience.

Takes a little extra setup time, you MUST use a synthetic brush, and you need to seal the model first, but it's well worth it. You can wash an entire terminator sized model in about 30-60 seconds. A cotton swab and some pure mineral spirits will pick up any excess/spillage even hours later.

Awesomepaintjob.com demonstrates the oil wash method in his Sons of Medusa YouTube video tutorial. It looks really awesome! But until I get to that level... Hooray for nuln oil! Lol

I've tried Nuln Oil but to be honest I wasn't impressed. Badab Black is where it's at! (still)

I've also given Army Painter's Dark Tone a try and for me, it knocks Nuln Oil into a cocked hat. When my last 3 pots of Badab are gone, that's going to be my replacement.

I find it quite amusing that im still getting by with flesh wash and other really old ones
I use badab from time to time, but might have to give some of the new glazes/shades a go.

I love the new shades, I'm proud to say. Biel-Tan Green is awesome, and a million times better than Thraka Green.

Haven't tried out Agrax Earthshade yet though. I ought to.

 Fezman wrote:
The Shade paints I've used have all been very good. I'm a fan of Casandora Yellow (handy as I have a Bad Moon army) and Carroburg Crimson myself. I have seen the DVD for the latest GW painting book and I use the tip from that to paint Space Marine helmet lenses - paint the eye white and wash with Carroburg Crimson. Looks really nice.

Awesome tip....I'm going to try this on my Iron Hand Lenses for my FW army.

Oh and I do use the Oil Washes on my 15mm World War II stuff, it works well and gives a really good Pin-Wash effect without having to laboriously Pin Wash the model. The thing I read was like this:-

Wash Oil over acrylic, or Acrylic over oil. Never use same with the same. It worked nicely.

Badab Black caused me issues with pooling and drying unevenly, this forced me towards Vallejo Washes and alternatives (making my own) I took a "punt on the Shades" (Sounds like something you would do in Ankh-Morpork!) and it turned out well.

If you haven't tried it out yet buy a pot (£2) and try it on a test miniature, I don't think you'll be disappointed.